Aoresteen

<p>Felix,</p> <p>I'd have the camera checked. The focusing screen could be out of wack. The viewing lens could be out of wack. The taking lens could be out of wack. If you are in the USA consider sending it to Mark Hama to be checked and while he's got it have a CLA done.<br> Mark Hama Ltd.<br />2675 Earl Dr.<br />Marietta, GA 30062<br />P: 770.565.1498<br />F: 770.977.5078<br />http://www.markhama.com/<br />markhama@comcast.net<br /><br /><br> You could do a focus test: flat wall with newspaper at closest focus point & one at 10-12 feet, a picket fence at an angle with a pencil taped to the picket at 10-12 feet (pencil is your focus point), and an infinity focus shot of trees against the sky. All should be done at f/3.5. That will confirm that either the camera is working correctly or not. If it's not you will have to send it in to a repair shop to have it fixed - you will not know what is out of wack.</p> <p>Good luck!</p> <p> </p>

<p>Great find! Always good to have a working back up camera.</p>

<p>I've been an HP-5 user since it was introduced in 1976. The current HP-5+ is a marvelous film. I develop it it HC-110B and expose it at EI 200.</p>

<p>If you find that the RZ/RB is too big, consider the Mamiya M645. I use both the M645 1000s and Hasselblad 500/2000 cameras. Both deliver excellent results.</p>

<p>Consider sending it to Mark Hama. He's a Yashica expert.</p> <p>Mark Hama Ltd.<br />2675 Earl Dr.<br />Marietta, GA 30062<br />P: 770.565.1498<br />F: 770.977.5078<br />http://www.markhama.com/<br />markhama@comcast.net</p>

<p>Henry's in Canda stoks 4x5 film. I'd give them a call.</p> <p>http://www.henrys.com/9415-ILFORD-HP5-PLUS-4X5-25SH-400ISO-629172.aspx</p>

<p>As a note, all of the Hasselblad chimney 'snoot' finders have adjustable diopters in them. I love mine (a very early 70's version) as my eyes need a + 2 correction.</p>

<p>Nice!!! I prefer my Rapid to my Super. I just got my Contaflex S Black back from a CLA today and will use tomorrow if the weather is better!</p>

<p>Tachihara made a 5x7 to 4x5 reducing back but they are hard to find. It seems that your film holders are 13x18cm. You can still get 13x18cm film in Europe. Ilford Delta is available:</p> <p>https://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/films/ilford-delta-100-13x18-cm-51x708-inch-25-sheets.html</p> <p>I think the HP-5 is also available in 13x18cm format.</p>

<p>I'm waiting for production unit tests. I'll get a K-1 or a Sony A7II. Right now the Sony A7II is in the lead as it will take notonly my Pentax lenses it will use my Leica and Olympus glass as well.</p> <p>Best to wait until the initial demand passes and see how the bugs are being handled.</p>

<p>So how will the remjet coating be removed from the 120 film? Seems to me that they will need a lab that can handle it.</p> <p>Running a roll of this stuff through standard C-41 process will ruing the chemicals with the remjet coating.</p> <p> </p>

<p>I've used Don Goldberg for years and never had an issue. He has a couple of my lenses right now and I expect it will be 3 months before I see them. I'm fine with that.</p> <p>Youxin Ye also has a IIIf body and a couple of Canon screw-mount lenses of mine. He quoted me 2 months and I am fine with that. My M3 & M4-P are all working so I have a back up.</p> <p>If you have only one camera you really need to consider getting a second one as all cameras need maintenance at some point and the classic stuff will take time to get serviced.</p>

<p>Call Hasselblad/Braun. They might have some ideas for you. I'm not sure if they are still servicing the 2003FCW as no shutter are available any longer.</p>

<p>Yeras ago (late 70's/early 80's) there was a Hasselblad adapter to use Hasselblad FILM backs on a various view cameras. The name escapes me right now but I pretty sure it was for Sinar or maybe Arca Swiss.</p> <p>It came in two versions. One was for the earlier C backs that you advanced the film by looking through the peep hole and stopped when the frame numbers appeared. You can still do this with current 'digital' back adapters for various cameras.</p> <p>The 2nd one had an film advance knob/gear built in that you could advance the film without removing the back from the view camera. They would be very hard to find today.</p> <p>The other way to advance the film of an A12 back on a digital back adapter is to insert the dark slide, remove the back, put it on a Hasselblad V body that is released, and advance the film, remove the A12, and put it back on the digital back adapter. Not fun.</p> <p>You are better off getting a regular roll back adapter than trying to use a Hasselblad back. Graflex made 6x6 12exp roll backs that can be used with the Sinar.</p> <p> </p>

<p>STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You will only do damage to your 1600 if you try to service it yourself. It needs special tools to service it.</p> <p>Hasselblad will not service them any longer.</p> <p>There is only ONE place to send a 1600F and I'm not sure if he is still servicing them:</p> <p>David Knapman <br />Pro-Camerara Service<br />Box 115<br />S-438 23 Landvetter<br />SWEDEN<br />Phone: +46-31-919403<br />knapman@tele2.se<br /><br /><br /> David was factory trained on the 1600/1000F cameras. Last I heard he had quite a backlog.</p> <p>The 1600F was never a reliable camera. That's why the 1000F came out. It was my first decent 6x6 camera back in 1976. I had my 1000F factory serviced back then. I now use two 2000FC/M cameras. If I were to buy a Hasselblad focal plane shutter camera today I would ONLY consider a 200 series camera.</p> <p>http://oresteen.com/hasselbladfcameras.htm</p>

<p>Ditto what Eric said. I have been burned too many times by Best Buy. I've used B&H since the 80's - never an issue.</p> <p>Go with B&H.</p>

<p>40.5mm is corret.</p> <p>The 90mm SA should be 67mm</p> <p>https://www.schneideroptics.com/info/vintage_lens_data/large_format_lenses/super-angulon/data/8-90mm.html</p> <p> </p>

<p>Humm. Very strange. I'd check the battery with a meter to make sure it's fresh.</p> <p>Remove the lens. How are the shutter speeds with no lens attached?</p>

<p>If the shade blocks the image through the viewfinder, eBay is full of vented shades that reduce the blockage.</p> <p>Brad,</p> <p>I have an M3 (used one since 1979) and the Canon 50mm f/1.8 & the Zeiss ZM 50mm Planar. It's not clear that one is better than the other. The lenses render DIFFERENTLY. For some subjects I prefer the Canon lens over the Zeiss. I sold my Summicron years ago as I preferred the Canon & Zeiss renderings.</p> <p>The Canon P shows the 35mm frame. The M3 does not. If you use 35mm lenses the Canon P is 'better' than the M3. It depends on how you will use it.</p> <p>It boils down to what you photograph and how you like the image rendered. There are lots of persons who will tell you that they prefer an uncoated pre-war 3.5 Elmar over a modern Summicron.</p>

<p>The above only applies to DIGITAL cameras. With FILM cameras dynamic range depends largely on the film, processing, and the lenses used to take the image.</p>

<p>You are a braver man than I am! I hope you get the lens working. If your S1 or lens needs servcie I would consider Eric Hendrickson. He is the person I send my Takumar lenses to for service. He's great.</p> <p>www.pentaxs.com</p>

<p>It seems that all the good service persons are backlogged with work. Don Goldberg (Leica), John Hermanson (Olympus OM expert), Eric Hendrickson (Pentax), Henry Fleenor (Rollei), and Youxin Ye (Leica) all have backlogs to name a few.</p> <p>Consider yourself lucky that you don't have a Contax rangefinder that needs service. Henry Scherer has a 4 YEAR backlog to get a Zeiss Contax rangefinder serviced. I'm glad I got my Contax IIa done by Henry in 2005 when he had only a 3 month wait. http://www.zeisscamera.com/first.shtml</p> <p>Sherry will get you lens fixed - just give her time. Every time you call remember if she's talking on the phone she is not working on a camera or lens.</p>

<p>I bought my first OM-1 in 1976. I have 7 OM-1/OM-2 bodies all serviced by Camtech (www. zuiko.com). They are equally reliable. Both will need service at some point. I tend to take an OM-1 body when I'm shooting B&W film manually advancing the film. When I use a motor drive or a winder I tend to take an OM-2.<br> I have 24 OM lenses and they are as good as any made. The 50mm f/1.8 "Made in Japan" is an outstanding lens. The 21mm f/3.5 is one of my favorites. The 85mm is at the top of the class. A real sleeper is the 200mm f/5. I must have an exceptional copy as it gets a lot of bad press but my pictures say otherwise. I tend to use it only in good light at around f/11 or f/8.<br> <br />The ORIGINAL line of Vivitar Series 1 lenses are extremely good. I have the 28mm f/1.9, the 70-210 f/2.8-3.5, & the 28-90mm. I'm still in the hunt for the 90mm macro.<br> <br />I would stick with the OM-1 & OM-2. They are solid cameras and are cheap today. But they will need service and John at zukio.com is the place to send them. Understand that there is a 10 week backlog as John now works part-time servicing OM cameras. He has an OM-1 body and a Motor Drive 2 & control pack of mine waiting for service. Well worth the wait.<br> <br />Get two bodies so you always have a back up. At today's prices there is no reason not to have a spare.</p>

<p>STOP!</p> <p>The most important item in a darkroom is the DRAIN! Do you have a floor drain? Or will you need to pump it up to get the wast water out? Before you build anything sort out the drain issue first.</p> <p>My current darkroom doesn't have a floor drain so I am using a washing machine drain lift unit. Read this post that covers my darkroom from start to finish. My sinks are wood. When you seal them use SILICONE caulk!</p> <p>http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/at-last-building-out-my-darkroom.108767/</p> <p>Good luck!</p>

<p>It also depends if you are using it on a full frame DSLR or a crop sensor DSLR. Full frame you might have some issues in the corners but with a fisheye no one really cares about the corners anyway.</p>