Aoresteen

<p>Go to a drug store ans find the reading glasses that work best when you use them to look through the FE. Let's say that a pair of +3.5 glasses works best. The NIKON diopter that you need is 3.5 - 1 or +2.5 (net).</p> <p>Most cameras mark the diopter at exactly what it is. Nikon marks them with the sum of the camera's diopter (-1) and the correction diopter for the net effect. As others have said, it's very confusing. Good luck.</p>

Shun, True what you said but the op wanted to fix it himself. I would send it to a pro repair shop but that's not what he asked for.

<p>What is the frame number on when you open the back? If it doesn't go all the way back to 0 that is a problem.</p> <p>It sounds like your Rolleiflex needs service. You could try and load it with film but I would guess that it would get stuck as well.</p> <p>Harry Fleenor at Ocean Side Camera Repair is highly regarded with Rolleiflex repairs.</p>

<p>Kodak used to make display transparencies called Colorama. They were huge and displayed in NYC Grand Central Station. They were huge back-lit transparencies that were made from Kodachrome or Ektachrome slides. </p> <p>There also were direct prints from slides called Type R prints and Cibachrome that were available 10 years ago but are no longer available. No internagative was needed for these prints. That coulbe what he was referring to.</p>

<p>I was able to find a replacement lens mount for my daughter's Nikon kit zoom 18-55mm lens that had broken. The mounts were so cheap that I bought 5 replacement mounts for $10 off of eBay and was able to replace it myself. Nikon wanted $200 to repair it!<br> The item is 400808857990.</p> <p>I'd look on eBay to see if your mount is available.</p>

<p>I did find one shop that does Mamiya RB67 repairs. It's Forest Camera Repair outside of Nashville TN. Here's what they list as cameras that they work on:<br> <strong>Medium Format Camera Repairs<br /></strong><br /><strong>Hasselblad: </strong>500C, 500C/M, 501CM, 503CW, 503CX, Plus Hasselblad lenses & film backs<br /><strong>Mamiya:</strong> RB67 body, lenses, and film backs<br /><strong>Mamiya:</strong> 645's<br /><strong>Bronica</strong>: We no longer repair Bronica<br /><br /><br /><br> <strong>35mm Format</strong><br /><br /><strong>Pentax: </strong>K1000, Spotmatic, ME Super, MX<br /><strong>Nikon: </strong>FM, FM2, and other non auto-focus<br /><strong>Canon:</strong> AE-1 and program, Plus most EOS</p> <p>http://www.forestcamerarepair.com/Home_Page.html</p> <p><br /> They say that they service Mamiya RB67 bodies & lenses. I spoke with them and they are pretty sure that my lens has a broken spring and they do have the part ($28). So I packed up the lens and mailed it to them. We will see how they do.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Well now that I need to have my RB67 lens serviced I need to find a repair shop in the USA that knows Mamiya RB67 stuff inside out.</p> <p>Who is the "David Odess" of Mamiya RB67 repairs? Surely there's someone out there that specialies in Mamiya repairs? </p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Condition & serial numbers matter. For example the 500C if mint would bring a lot more than a run of the mill well used 500C.</p> <p>Also the 80mm Planar chrome is very common EXCEPT for the first run of 6 element lenses in 1957.<br> <br />Same for the Leicas. The blac Leica of 1932 if in mint shape will bring five times or more than a well used brassy copy.</p> <p>Not enough info to give you an accurate price. As others have said check the eBay completed auctions for an item that in in the same condition as yours.</p>

<p>Thanks Mag, but I know that and it doesn't apply here. I'm not using the lens on an RB67 body which the double cable release is for. </p> <p>In any event for the the lens to work in mirror lock up mode it must first close the shutter blades. Also many RB67 users put their lenses in M (mirror lock up mode) mode and use a regular cable release in the lens M/M socket. They release the lens with the body release with their finger which will close the shutter blades and release the mirror up. Then they use the single cable release to trip the shutter for the exposure.</p> <p>I am now very sure that the shutter is not working correctly. When released the first thing that the shutter is supposed to do is close the shutter blades. My lens is not closing the shutter blades until the very end which will case significant light leaking to the film. </p> <p>I am sending the lens in for a CLA service. Thanks!</p>

<p>How much did they quote to replace the lugs? If it's really high get another quote from DAG, Golden Touch (Sherry) or Youxin Ye.</p>

<p>I just purchased an RB67 65mm f/4.5 lens, first version from the early 1970's. I've NEVER used an RB67 camera let alone an RB67 lens. I do not have an RB67 body - just the lens.<br /> <br /> I bought a view camera lens board that has an RB67 lens mount on it and my plan is to use the 65mm lens on my Cambo 23SF 6x9 view camera.<br /> <br /> <img src="http://www.apug.org/forum/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi36.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe5%2Faoresteen%2FCameras%2520-%2520general%2FRB67%2520viewcamera%2520lensboard_zpser50z0qg.jpg&hash=1ddfbec29a86403b88e17c2d657bd097" alt="" data-url="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e5/aoresteen/Cameras%20-%20general/RB67%20viewcamera%20lensboard_zpser50z0qg.jpg" /> <br /> <br /> <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/111810834091?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" data-proxy-href="proxy.php?link=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F111810834091%3F_trksid%3Dp2057872.m2749.l2649%26ssPageName%3DSTRK%253AMEBIDX%253AIT&hash=262da8e1f8e40e0cda8f2786e9ff9505">http://www.ebay.com/itm/111810834091?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT</a><br /> <br /> The Mamiya 65mm lens mounts just fine on the lens board and I can trip the lens shutter by pressing down on the silver lever.<br /> <br /> When I set the M/N switch to M (mirror up mode) and trip the shutter with the silver lever, the lens stops down and waits for me to trip the shutter with a cable release in the M/N switch socket.<br /> <br /> Here's my issue: The shutter blades never close before the shutter trips. When used in the M mode, the aperture is stopped down but the shutter blades are OPEN, letting light into the camera. I can't pull the dark-slide or the film will be exposed before I get a chance to use the cable release to trip the shutter.<br /> <br /> I do not know if this is is normal behavior or not for a RB67 lens.<br /> <br /> It seems to me that in mirror lock up mode the lens should stop down the aperture, close the shutter, and wait for the shutter to be tripped bay a cable release in the M/N socket. Why would it leave the shutter blades open, letting light into the camera?<br /> <br /> 1. How do I get the RB67 lens to stop down the aperture and close the shutter so that I can pull a dark slide and then trip the shutter with a cable release?<br /> <br /> 2. There is a 2nd cable release socket on the lens by the M/X switch and I can not figure out what it does.<br /> <br /> <img src="http://www.apug.org/forum/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi36.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe5%2Faoresteen%2FCameras%2520-%2520general%2FRB67%252065mm%2520lens_zpsn0sfwlxg.jpg&hash=ebfd5d2e4fe8eef7401725ff0a43199a" alt="" data-url="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e5/aoresteen/Cameras%20-%20general/RB67%2065mm%20lens_zpsn0sfwlxg.jpg" /> <br /> <br /> This is NOT the M/N switch cable release socket. What is this 2nd cable release socket on the RB67 lens for?<br /> <br /> <br /> The lens was purchased from a reputable dealer in Japan (I'm in the USA) and I planned on having the lens serviced as it's about 46 years old even though the seller said it's in working order. <br /> <br /> Thanks for your help sorting this out!</p>

<p>I have the Industar 55mm f/2.8 and it was in bad shape when I got it. I had it repaired for proper focus and once adjusted it works very well.<br> <br /> https://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103300<br> <br /> It's a safe assumption that FSU lenses will need service. If yours works as-is consider yourself lucky. Try to borrow a camera to try your lens out on and do the 1m test as Brian mentioned.</p> <p>If your lens needs service consider spending the money on a Voigtlander lens instead. Later on when you have some extra funds then get it repaired.</p>

<p>For the last 20 years I've used both tin and gold and never had an issue with either. The monitors died before the cables did under normal use.</p> <p>At work (where I was the head of the IT Department) when we had a cable issue it was due to either abuse by the user yanking on them like they were hoisting a sail on a boat or the wrong DVI/HDMI connector. </p>

<p>When sending 35mm B&W film to a lab for 'push' processing always save the last two frames and expose them at the normal ISO and 1/2 ISO. In your case that would have been 400 and 200. If the lab doesn't 'push' the film, those frames will prove it. They will be normal. If the lab does push the film those frames will be very dense due to over development. No arguments from the lab if they botch the job.</p>

<p>I have a Canon 50mm f/1.2 (my 2nd copy) and they MUST be properly adjusted or they will be out of focus. I sold my first copy thinking it was a soft lens but what it needed was a proper adjustment.</p> <p>I sent my M3 and the 50mm f/1.2 to my service provider to ensure BOTH were properly adjusted. Now that you have done the same I'm sure things will be sorted out. Usually the 135mm is the hardest lens to focus on a Leica so that tells me that your body was in spec and the 50mm f/1.2 was in need of adjustment. If the 135mm becomes out of focus then there is something amiss in the camera.</p>

<p>I'm in the process of getting a 6x17. Linhof has the largest gate size so by having the negative carrier milled for the Linhof, all the other ones will fit - Fuji, Fotoman, Horseman etc.</p> <p>Most likely I will get a Fuji 617 with the 105mm but the others are still being considered.</p>

<p>He just brought a Pentax 6x7 MLU body & TTL prism back from the dead for me. He is Mr. Pentax!</p>

<p>If you have no interest in using it, I'd put it up on eBay for auction. Set a reserve that you are happy with. Or pick a price and list it as a BIN.</p> <p>$200 seems quite low to me. Regular XK's have sold for as much as $399 on eBay recently.</p> <p><br />Around 2004 a mint in the box XK Motor sold for $4,000. That's MINT in the box never used. Yours is not. But for sure it's worth a lot more than $200.</p> <p>Good luck!</p>

<p>What Paul said is correct. You need to have the shutter serviced. You can try to loosen it up by putting it on manual 1/60th and fire it about 150 times. That *may* get things going again, at least for awhile. But eventually it will start again.</p> <p>I'm not sure where you are located but you need to find a repairman who can work on Olympus OM cameras.</p> <p>Good luck!</p>

<p>I need a sample Linhof 617 negative (57mmx172mm) as I'm having a 6x7 negative carrier (for a 5x7 enlarger) machined out to 617 size.</p> <p>In order to ensure that it is machined correctly, an old negative taken in a Linhof 617 would be very helpful.</p> <p>Does anyone have a Linhof 617 negative (or positive) that I could use?</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Whatever you use , make sure you remove the screen from the camera before you start to clean it and do NOT let any liquid get on the underside of the screen. To clean the under side use only a soft brush and canned air.</p> <p>I've used GooGone to clean off permanent markers.</p> <p>http://googone.com/Home.aspx</p> <p>Good luck!</p>

<p>That is a firmware issue. I'd call Sony tech support and ask them about it; that gives them feedback on what users want.</p>

<p>Rick,</p> <p>Well done! Great rescue, and better yet, lovely photos. That is a keeper for sure.</p> <p>By any chance did you take a picture of it BEFORE you cleaned it up? And what about the Konica Autoreflex T :) ?</p>

I would give them a call. No one here will know.

<p>I would not get any of them. For a modern look I use the Zeiss Planar ZM 50mm f/2 on my M3.</p> <p>For a classic look I use a 50's Canon 50mm f/1.8 black. Outstanding lens.</p> <p>You can buy both these lenses for a lot less than the Leica lenses and have plenty of money left over for film & prints. The ZM should cost $700 used and the Canon 50mm f/1.8 black $200 for a nice copy.</p>