User_4754088

<p>I use Nikon's right angle finder on my D4 and D700, so I think it will fit your D800. I like it, works really well. Not the same as looking at a big LCD screen, but I never look at the LCD screen when shooting.</p>

<p>Looks fungusie to me. Not sure about that lens, but in a few I've tried to clean over the years from fungus, I found the fungus had actually etched or eaten into the surface of the lens or coatings, and even though I could kill and remove the fungus, the lens was still not useable.</p>

<p>I think it would be a mistake to buy a Nikon D810 for high school sports, that's not what it was designed for. If you can't swing a Nikon D4s, Nikon D4 or Nikon D3s, then I would look at the Nikon D750. I use a Nikon D700 for a back up to my Nikon D4, but for high school sports you really need that low light shooting capacity (High ISO) as well as the continuous shooting capacity, and the Nikon D810 was not designed for either of those, it was designed as a high megapixel camera.</p>

<p>Not sure what the issue is or how much life is left in your sensor, but an easy way to check what size your RAW files are is when you open them in Photoshop, do a quick Image Size check. On the top menu bar, go to the Image drop down menu and scroll down to Image Size. Click on it. It will open a window that tells you how many pixels by how many pixels your image is.</p> <p>Not sure if this would have an effect or not, but you might want to check the Resolution of your image when you check the image size. For viewing images on a computer screen, 72 Pixels per Inch is fine, but maybe for the detail work you are doing you want your resolution to be higher.</p>

<p>My 2¢ worth.<br> I always loved the rendering of the 85mm f1.8D lens and it is one of the few lenses I've ever regretted selling. I never liked the rendering of the 50mm f1.4D lens, and found it to be rather boring and plain, and was happy to get rid of it. I found the 50mm f1.4G lens renders much more to my liking, and have never used the 85mm f1.8G.</p>

<p>Hopefully your HN-8 will fit tighter on your 105 than the one I have does on mine. It's the loosest hood for any of my lenses. I find it's pretty quick to just flip the hood around and use a standard 52mm lens cap. If your HN-8 fits like mine, I think your hood (with the cap you want to buy) will be falling off in your camera bag.</p>

<p>Love the 180, been using it for head and shoulder portraits since back in the F4s days with film. Works equally as well with FX, not tried it on a DX camera. One of Nikon's unsung heroes.</p>

<p>Mine's one of the earlier ones too. This came out of the blue a couple months ago. Not happy at all.</p>

<p>They serviced the camera 9 months ago and didn't notice the issue (though in their defense it wasn't really an issue 9 months ago). The camera is in New York at Nikon Service right now, so I'll probably have them fix it. Just think it's a manufacturer defect since so many D4 owners are experiencing the exact same symptoms.</p>

<p>Wondering if any D4 owners have had this issue with their camera and the Main Command Dial on the back.</p> <p>My D4 started showing these symptoms about two months ago. When it had been sitting for a day or two unused, when I first tried to rotate the Main Command Dial it would be stuck and require more force than normal to get it to turn. Then it would free up and work fine.</p> <p>Football season starts in a couple weeks, so I thought it would be good to have it looked at before hand. <em><strong>WELL NIKON WANTS $420 TO FIX IT!!</strong></em></p> <p>They say the switch is broken. Just seems sticky to me. The camera has never been dropped or abused in any way.</p> <p>If you look over on DPReview website you can see a number of D4 users having this exact same problem. So I'm wondering if any of you have experienced this.</p> <p>I think this is a manufacturing defect that Nikon should take care of for no charge, just like the problem in the 24-70 AFS-G 2.8 zoom mechanism.<br /> <br /> <em><strong>NOT</strong></em> a happy Nikon customer.</p> <p>Best,<br /> -Tim</p>

<p>Wish they would do that on the D4.</p>

<p>Let me try to explain clearer, I'm traveling by car and airplane, and need to shoot B&W film, Color film, and digital of about one hundred and fifty sites along the journey. Shooting color film and b&w film requires two separate film bodies as I need both film emulsions available for each site. </p> <p>The Df would be quite a bit smaller and lighter weight than my D4. All four lenses are interchangeable between all three cameras, and I would like one flash to cover everything.</p> <p>Not sure how to lighten up much past where I'm at.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>BeBu,</p> <p>I know the manual focusing won't be as easy with the Df as it is with my F3HP and FM2n, but how difficult is it? I've seen recommended a number of places to use the DK-17M magnifying eyepiece with the Df and that makes manual focusing easier. I picked one up (DK-17M) and used it on a D700 and I was able to manual focus pretty accurately with it, but then I tried it (DK-17M) on a D4 and that combination didn't work well for me at all.</p> <p>The lens I have the most difficulty focusing manually on any DSLR camera that I've tried it on is my 50mm f1.2 AIS lens. A 28mm f2.8 AIS, and the 105mm f2.5 AI that I have are much easier for me to hit focus with.</p> <p>Any tips on manually focusing with the Df?</p> <p>Thanks,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Thanks for the feedback folks. Glad to hear the SB-28 will work in Auto just like it does on the FM2n.</p> <p>The only F3HP with a modern hotshoe is the F3P (the professional photojournalism model that was only sold in Japan IIRC).</p> <p>Shooting B&W film, Color film, and digital, which is the reason for the three bodies. Swapping the same lenses between all three.</p> <p>Just haven't been a fan of the D750, and I've heard it doesn't work well with the older manual focus lenses, as far as the ease of focusing is concerned.</p> <p>Best,<br /> -Tim</p>

<p>Just curious if anyone has used an SB-28 (not the SB-28D) with a Nikon Df digital camera? I'm trying to figure out a "lightweight travel" kit to take on an extended journey and would like to only bring one Speedlight. I plan on bringing my Nikon F3-HP, an FM2n, and my SB-28 speedlight. I was thinking about purchasing a Nikon Df to use for digital (since it will work with all the MF Nikkors I'm bringing), but I am wondering if it would work with the SB-28 speedlight as well. I would rather not bring along a second speedlight (like an SB-700).</p> <p>Thanks for any and all info.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>I agree with Wouter, it does come down to preference. I'm in the same boat but with the 35 instead of the 28. I find a 28 and a 50 work really well for me. The 35 is not quite wide enough (to be a 28) and not quite long enough (to be a 50). So a 35 doesn't really have a place in my kit. It's all how you shoot.</p>

<p>I've got the 28 f2.8 AIS lens and had the 35 f2 D. Really like the 28 f2.8 AIS, never cared for the 35 f2 D. Bought them both new, and even had one of the original 35's that were made in Japan. Never got on well with it. Image quality was "Meh" and not a huge fan of the focal length.</p> <p>One lens you don't mention is the Nikon 28mm f1.4 D Aspheric lens. When that came out it was the lens I lusted for but could not afford. Scarce as hen's teeth, and still really pricey, but it used to be the go-to lens for PJ's back in the 1990's.</p>

<p>Thanks Lex, that is really nice.</p> <p>I'm gonna see what I can do with this one. If all that fails, I'll let you know.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Have had my Nikon FM2n since new in 1996. Picked up an MD-12 in the late 1990's and love the feel of the motor drive and body when using small primes. </p> <p>For years I've read about folks having electronic issues with the MD-12 and I've always felt lucky that I must have gotten a "Special One" or at least one of the "good ones" because mine has been trouble free. Used it quite a lot on Friday and Saturday, and now mine is having issues. </p> <p>When I get to the end of a roll of film, if it partially winds then stops (because there isn't enough film in the cassette to let the camera fully wind), the winder will lock up and I can't get it working again, even after rewinding the film and reloading the camera. I have to shut the winder off, remove it from the camera, manually cock the camera and fire the shutter several times, then put the MD-12 back on. It never used to do this and really never had an issue in all the years I've owned it.</p> <p>Anyone know of a fix for this?</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>These electronic cameras can get that way. My Nikon 1 V2 does that sometimes when I'm using it with the FT-1. I'll be happily shooting along and then bam, auto-focus stops working. Check all the mounts, nothing fixes it. Have to turn the camera off, let it sit for about five seconds, then turn it back on and everything is hunky dory again. It's like a computer. Like the chip inside needs an occasional reset.</p>

<p>I can't speak for anyone else, but something I've heard many times, here and elsewhere, is that the 28mm f2.8 AIS lens is "not sharp in the corners" unless it is stopped down pretty far (f8-ish). Was testing it last night on both the D4 and D700 and focusing at near infinity. Yes, the corners were soft until about f8, but in my case, it's not because there is an issue with the lens, it's that the corners on a wide angle image of a distant object are WAY OUT of the depth of field range. The corners of the image were the grass a few feet in front of me, a building ten feet away on one side, etc. The lens was focused at almost infinity. I would expect object that are out of the depth of field range to be soft. I wonder how much of "not sharp in the corners" comes from objects in the corners of a wide angle image not being within the depth of field range that the lens is set at.</p> <p>Just an observation.</p>

<p>BeBu, how is focusing on the Df for you. I've heard good and bad from folks. In fact it was a Df owner who sold me on the idea of getting the DK-17M because he said it made his Df so much easier to focus (I thought it might also work on my D700 and D4). I'd be interested in your observations on manually focusing with your Df.</p>

<p>Pete, what a great (and detailed) explanation. Thanks for sharing it with us.</p> <p>I think what Rick said is what I'm going to have to do. I spent about two hours (since I originally posted) trying both cameras (D4 & D700) again with the DK-17M eyepiece, and when I go slow and really concentrate, I'm starting to nail the focus more consistently. But boy, pop any of those AIS lenses on my F3HP and BAM!!, nailing focus is easy.</p> <p>Thanks again for everyone's input.</p>

<p>Yeah. I did adjust the diopter after installing the DK-17M. Interesting thing, with the DK-17M on the D4 the diopter is definitely at a different setting than when I don't use the DK-17m. On my D700 I didn't have to change the diopter when I installed the DK-17M, it was still spot on.</p> <p>Weird.</p>

<p>I've got a bevy on Nikon manual focus lenses that work great on my Nikon film SLR bodies. I have matte focus screens on all my Nikon film SLR bodies so I thought I would have no problem focusing the lenses with my DSLR's. Not the case. Read numerous places that the DK-17M makes it easy to focus manually with a DSLR, so I picked one up.</p> <p>Put it on my D700 and it really did help. Then I tried it on my D4, thinking it should work just as well, but no way. Was missing about 50% of my shots. Really weird.</p> <p>Anyone else try the Nikon Magnifying Eyepieces (DK-17M or DK-21M) on their DSLR cameras, and if so, what bodies and how well did it work for you?</p>