User_4754088

<p>Thanks Pete and Luke.</p> <p>Shun, nice article about the differences between the D800 and D800E. What is your recommendation for a modern 28mm lens that would play nicely with the D800?</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hey Shun, I see NikonUSA has refurbished D800's for $2100 and D800E's for $2500 (both made in Japan, Hah!!!). You've used both of those in the past, right? Which one do you think would give me the best dynamic range?</p>

<blockquote> <p>BTW, I assume Tim is aware of where the D810 is made.</p> </blockquote> <p>You're just never gonna let that go, are ya?? </p> <p>:-)</p>

<p>Thanks for all the responses. I will be needing to make prints of minimum 16" x 20" size, some bigger, which is why I originally considered Medium Format. I have a D4 and D700 that I use for work, but the images from them start to get strained when you go 16 x 20 and bigger.</p> <p>I looked at a number of used Medium Format kits, but as the project is a combination of landscape, architecture, portraiture, and photojournalism, it would need to be a rather complex Medium Format package. Also, Medium Format equipment in good shape is getting tougher to come by, I guess folks are hanging on to what they have because the market is so depressed. </p> <p>I have all the Nikkor glass already, just would need the D810 body. So I am looking into that option.</p>

<p>Has anyone shot the classic Nikon 28mm f2.8 A.I.S. lens on the Nikon D810 and would like to share their experience?</p> <p>I'll be starting a project in a few weeks that I originally wanted to shoot on Medium Format film, but there just isn't the budget. I have heard so many great things about the D810 and how it's Medium Format in a 35mm package, but I'm concerned about a few of my older Nikon optics when paired with it.</p> <p>So if anyone has shot this combination, I'd love to hear your thoughts and maybe see some results. Just want to make sure the higher resolution sensor doesn't make the optics look like hell.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Been a loyal customer since 1992. No other place I'd do business with (especially since now all the camera stores in Chicago have closed: Calumet, Helix, Ritz, etc.).</p>

<p>Thanks for posting Alan. I agree with Norbert, this doesn't look good at all. You don't have a single shot up there that looks acceptable. Glad I held on to my AFS 300 f4.</p>

<p>Yeah, go with the 70-200. Not only for how much better it is "out of the box", but with soccer, 200mm is a bit on the short side. The 70-200 plays very nicely with the Nikon 1.4 TC to give you some extra reach.</p> <p>I know it's expensive, but you really do get what you pay for with it.</p>

<p>The DSLR Dashboard app does not work with the Nikon 1 Series of cameras, even though the WU-1b WiFi adapter is supported by DSLR Dashboard.</p> <p>I've talked with the developer and he says he cannot support the Nikon 1 Series cameras because Nikon won't release documentation to developers for those cameras.</p> <p>Bummer.</p>

<p>I'm also looking for a remote control iOS app for my Nikon. Just I'm looking for something that supports the Nikon 1 V2 with the WU-1b wireless adapter.</p> <p>Has anyone tried the CamRanger unit with one of the Nikon 1 cameras, and specifically the V2? So far I have been stuck with the Nikon Wireless Mobile Utility, and as Hamed mentioned above, it is quite limited.</p>

<p>If I was only using the f2.8 zooms I would agree with you to a point, and I find the 70-200 works beautifully on the V2, (and I appreciate that I don't need to ND it).</p> <p>The 32mm at f1.2 has really nice out of focus rendering, and that 1/16000 makes shooting it wide open in bright sunlight possible (and yes, I would love for the V2 to have a native ISO 100, but like my D700, it doesn't). One of the two images above was shot with the 32mm. I was further away on that shot than I usually am with the 32mm at baseball games (usually use it for plays at 1st when I'm positioned there). I like the fact that I don't have to ND that lens wide open on the V2, even in bright sun, and it gives me beautiful out-of-focus rendering of the players and the rest of the field when used closer in.</p>

<p>Shun, everyone knows the smaller sensor is going to give you a greater depth of field. That's not news to anyone who has been shooting different formats.</p> <p>What I do find "new and exciting" is that when I'm shooting one particular sport, Baseball, where on a sunny evening the light levels can swing to the extremes, the huge range of shutter speeds my Nikon 1 V2's electronic shutter allows (as opposed to my DSLR's) enables me to keep my lens wide-open (allowing me the shallowest depth of field), and to set my camera on Aperture Priority, and concentrate on composition and what is happening on the field, off the field, and in the dugout. With my FF DSLR's, that is not possible.</p>

<p>But without the electronic shutter's ability to go to 1/16000th of a second, you are forced to used ND filters with your lenses when shooting in bright sunlight and wanting to shoot wide open. As I swing my camera from a player on the field in glaring sunlight, to the coach in the shadowed dugout, having a usable shutter speed range from 1/30th to 1/16000th allows me to do that "wide open" without relying on ND<em>ing</em> the lens. I find that a huge advantage when I'm working.</p>

<p>While I appreciate all the discussion about the 30 FPS the V2 camera allows me to shoot, what I was trying to point out with this thread is a different advantage of the V2 for shooting baseball. Because the electronic shutter speed capability of the V2 (1/16000 of a second), I can shoot all my lenses wide open without ND filters, thereby getting the maximum separation with out of focus backgrounds, as in the first image above.</p> <p>Unlike football and soccer and other outdoor sports, baseball does not have the running and need for focus tracking, something I still think the V2 is inferior at compared to my D4. </p> <p>Also with baseball, I am usually shooting from greater distances than in football or soccer, so getting out of focus backgrounds gets more difficult. Especially if you have to stop down the lens past f2.8. I really value the feature on the V2 that allows me to shoot at up to 1/16000 of a second with a wide open aperture in intense sunlight.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<center><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/pitch3.jpg" alt="" /> <p><strong> Nikon 1 V2 w/FT1 & 70-200 f2.8 VRII</strong></p> </center> <p>Although I wouldn't use the Nikon 1 system for covering most sports (football, basketball, etc.) it does make a great camera for covering baseball. As I mentioned in another post, one advantage it has over my FF Nikon bodies is its ability to shoot 30 fps (basically 30P video) so there's a better chance of freezing that fraction of a second where bat meets ball. But a second more important feature is the ability to use the electronic shutter when shooting 30 FPS.</p> <p>I can set all my lenses WIDE OPEN even in direct sunlight. Using my 70-200 f2.8 VRII wide open at 2.8, my ISO at the low end at ISO 160, the camera can crank up the shutter speed so there is no need to use ND filters or stop down the lens (which would make it more difficult to isolate subjects because of the increased depth of field). Even with the 32mm f1.2 set wide open at f1.2, and the ISO at ISO 160, the electronic shutter's ability to go to 1/16,000 of a second means I don't have to worry about over exposure, or ND filters.</p> <center><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/hit1.jpg" alt="" /> <p><strong> Nikon 1 V2 w/32mm f1.2</strong></p> </center> <p>You do get funny looks and comments from the other photographers who are shooting with their big full frame DSLR rigs, but I value the results more than having the biggest gun on the field.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Hey Shun, actually I have a special edition V2, one of only 100 made in the Japan factory, cost more than the Chinese ones, but I think the quality is worth the extra money.</p> <p>April Fools. Nah, it's just a normal V2, and yes, this one does work very well. I went through three of them, my original one works extremely well, I've had it for two years now. The second one was bad out of the box and it went back. The third one I've had since December and so far so good. So two out of three ain't bad.</p> <p>Wasn't shooting video. Thirty individual frames per second, no interlacing. The electronic shutter really has advantages in situations like the one above. Plenty of light, Phase Detection Autofocus working extremely quick, shooting wide open on the big DSLR lens, everything fell nicely into place. Was even able to take 26 consecutive frames from one pitch and make an Animated GIF that I posted on Twitter. Don't know of a Nikon or Canon DSLR that would allow me to do that.</p>

<p>My Nikon 1 V2 never ceases to amaze me. Took it out yesterday and put a 70-200 f2.8 on it via the FT-1. So nice to get a shallow depth of field:</p> <p ><img src="http://1.static.img-dpreview.com/files/w/TS560x560?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timcarrollphotography.com%2FForums%2FBarGirls1.jpg&signature=zkG%2B9CDnE2i5Tbfj3z4%2FBHwUGf0%3D" alt="" width="560" height="420" data-dpr-src-type="w" data-dpr-url="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/BarGirls1.jpg" data-dpr-original-width="800" data-dpr-original-height="600" data-dpr-exif="{"make":null,"model":null,"date":null,"shutterSpeedNumerator":null,"shutterSpeedDenominator":null,"aperture":null,"ISO":null,"exposureCompensation":null,"focalLength":null}" data-dpr-large-image-url="http://1.static.img-dpreview.com/files/w/TS940x940?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timcarrollphotography.com%2FForums%2FBarGirls1.jpg&signature=dDON%2B0KUnEal96b9SPsFB%2FO%2BMVA%3D" data-dpr-xlarge-image-url="http://4.static.img-dpreview.com/files/w/TS1600x1600?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timcarrollphotography.com%2FForums%2FBarGirls1.jpg&signature=8geiWRjqsbECaTiWnYOiDTid7Uk%3D" data-dpr-full-image-url="http://3.static.img-dpreview.com/files/w/E?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timcarrollphotography.com%2FForums%2FBarGirls1.jpg&signature=rdDCLLSAZqHt6VHPQvRB10swAWs%3D" data-dpr-clickthrough-url="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/BarGirls1.jpg" data-dpr-small-image-width="560" data-dpr-small-image-height="420" data-dpr-large-image-width="800" data-dpr-large-image-height="600" data-dpr-xlarge-image-width="800" data-dpr-xlarge-image-height="600" data-dpr-full-image-width="800" data-dpr-full-image-height="600" /></p> <p > <br> Using the electronic shutter, and shooting at 30 fps continuous it is possible to capture that moment of bat hitting ball, something I struggle to achieve with my D4:</p> <p ><img src="http://4.static.img-dpreview.com/files/w/TS560x560?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timcarrollphotography.com%2FForums%2FBarGirls2.jpg&signature=2y8CvPuF3WOytKNTbPVbKnqnSig%3D" alt="" width="560" height="420" data-dpr-src-type="w" data-dpr-url="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/BarGirls2.jpg" data-dpr-original-width="800" data-dpr-original-height="600" data-dpr-exif="{"make":null,"model":null,"date":null,"shutterSpeedNumerator":null,"shutterSpeedDenominator":null,"aperture":null,"ISO":null,"exposureCompensation":null,"focalLength":null}" data-dpr-large-image-url="http://2.static.img-dpreview.com/files/w/TS940x940?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timcarrollphotography.com%2FForums%2FBarGirls2.jpg&signature=0Jdw7rRwoRyR%2Bhv%2BS%2Bbfk%2F%2BSlF8%3D" data-dpr-xlarge-image-url="http://1.static.img-dpreview.com/files/w/TS1600x1600?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timcarrollphotography.com%2FForums%2FBarGirls2.jpg&signature=mKggHj2wTdqpAstbRhorzFgjHcM%3D" data-dpr-full-image-url="http://4.static.img-dpreview.com/files/w/E?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timcarrollphotography.com%2FForums%2FBarGirls2.jpg&signature=HHfKLbBKzRf4AAbo1IHEQrVDt5E%3D" data-dpr-clickthrough-url="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/BarGirls2.jpg" data-dpr-small-image-width="560" data-dpr-small-image-height="420" data-dpr-large-image-width="800" data-dpr-large-image-height="600" data-dpr-xlarge-image-width="800" data-dpr-xlarge-image-height="600" data-dpr-full-image-width="800" data-dpr-full-image-height="600" /><br /></p> <p > <br> And finally, put the 32mm f1.2 on the V2 and kept the shutter electronic and on continuous 30 fps shooting, and was able to easily catch this play at 1st:</p> <p ><img src="http://3.static.img-dpreview.com/files/w/TS560x560?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timcarrollphotography.com%2FForums%2FBarGirls3.jpg&signature=ECFJujWxCSQEOXQ8tIFflbQBu5A%3D" alt="" width="560" height="419" data-dpr-src-type="w" data-dpr-url="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/BarGirls3.jpg" data-dpr-original-width="800" data-dpr-original-height="598" data-dpr-exif="{"make":null,"model":null,"date":null,"shutterSpeedNumerator":null,"shutterSpeedDenominator":null,"aperture":null,"ISO":null,"exposureCompensation":null,"focalLength":null}" data-dpr-large-image-url="http://4.static.img-dpreview.com/files/w/TS940x940?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timcarrollphotography.com%2FForums%2FBarGirls3.jpg&signature=c7xOXhiBJMzljsBCZqFd8yqnR7I%3D" data-dpr-xlarge-image-url="http://2.static.img-dpreview.com/files/w/TS1600x1600?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timcarrollphotography.com%2FForums%2FBarGirls3.jpg&signature=ip3LV8jg8OmJd7bPaK783XSGROg%3D" data-dpr-full-image-url="http://1.static.img-dpreview.com/files/w/E?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timcarrollphotography.com%2FForums%2FBarGirls3.jpg&signature=61%2FhBqn5f9iyUEU7hRr65ONV%2BU4%3D" data-dpr-clickthrough-url="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/BarGirls3.jpg" data-dpr-small-image-width="560" data-dpr-small-image-height="419" data-dpr-large-image-width="800" data-dpr-large-image-height="598" data-dpr-xlarge-image-width="800" data-dpr-xlarge-image-height="598" data-dpr-full-image-width="800" data-dpr-full-image-height="598" /><br /></p> <p > <br> The V2 and Nikon 1 line continues to amaze this jaded old film photographer. I hope Nikon keeps up the good work.<br> Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Depends on what you want to do with your camera. The Nikon 1 mirrors system has phase detection auto-focus, just like the DSLR's, though in really low light it switches to contrast detection.</p> <p>For shooting in low light, especially fast action, the DSLR still cannot be beat, but if you don't need to shoot fast action in low light, mirrorless sure has some advantages in size and weight.</p> <p>Again, depends on what you want to use the camera for.</p>

<p>I second what Craig is saying. The Nikon 70-200 2.8 VRII is head and shoulders above the others in terms of auto-focus speed, so if you are wanting to shoot rapidly moving objects, I'd go with that lens.</p> <p>That being said, I've used the 80-200 AF-D 2.8 extensively, and when the subject is standing still, the 80-200 can pretty much equal the 70-200. And it'd less than half the price. But again, the auto-focus is not nearly as fast.</p>

<p>As an aging photographer who gets a bit exhausted carrying around two FF DSLRs with assorted lenses, I tried to go the DX route. Purchased a D7100 and the DX 17-55 f2.8 lens, and I was very disappointed in the trade off in image quality compared to my D700 and D4, and the weight and size savings weren't that great.</p> <p>So I seriously downsized to two Nikon 1 V2 cameras and some good glass (10mm, 18.5mm, 32mm, 30-110) and the SB-N7 and I couldn't be happier. To get the most out of the camera I use DxO OpticsPro 10 software to process the images, and even shooting at ISO 6400, I now get good results. Here's an ISO 6400 shot, with the 30-110 lens, processed in DxO OpticsPro 10 software:</p> <p><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Corrected.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>And here is an 100% crop of the image:</p> <p><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Corrected100.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>Might be something to think about if you really want a small, very useful package.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Never had that experience with my LS-5000, but the question I have is will Nikon still service that scanner? I have been told that Nikon won't service any of their old film scanners.</p>

<p>Is that the cap that goes on the MD-12 handle, at the base? If so, I'd be interested in one. If you have a PayPal address I would be happy to pay for shipping.<br> Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Lenses sent of Feb 4th, returned today, Feb 20th. Pretty quick turn around.</p>

<p>Just out of curiosity, was the lens mounted on the camera when you bought it, or was the lens and body separate and you attached the lens? If you attached the lens after purchase, it should come off. If it came attached to the camera, then there might be some sort of issue.</p>

<p>And not to be insulting, but you are pushing the button (marked with the red arrow)? And lining up the white dot on the lens with the white dot on the camera body (circled)?</p> <p><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Button.jpg" alt="" /></p>