User_4754088

<p>Thanks Joe, I'll try that.</p>

<p>I've bought tons of equipment used from B&H, the reason, I've found them to be very honest and it is easy to return used items if they are not as described, or even if you just change your mind.</p> <p>I usually try to stick to items that are rated 9, 9+ or OB, but have had good luck even with 8+ items at times.</p>

<p>Does anyone have a link to instructions on how to disassemble the rear section of this lens to lubricate and tighten the focus?</p> <p>I've got a NIKKOR-S Auto 50mm f1.4 lens, early serial number #369XXX that has a loose or sloppy focus. The lens renders beautifully, but is annoying to use after a while because of the slop or looseness in the focus. </p> <p>When I first got the lens I opened up the front to clean some dust and haze from the inside surfaces, but when I had it apart, I couldn't access the focus section. It's now spotlessly clean, and as I said, it renders beautifully, it's just annoying to use.</p> <p>If anyone can offer any assistance with this, I'd really appreciate it.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p> <p> </p>

<p>On my long lenses, when covering sports, I never use VR. I'm usually shooting above 1/500th of a second, and many times tracking an athlete. In those situations, I find VR worthless.</p> <p>The one caveat, most of the fasting focusing Nikon lenses, have VR built in. So you just have to turn it off.</p>

<p>Chuck,</p> <p>Totally agree with you on the front edge of the lens hood. Not Nikon's greatest moment.</p>

<p>Hi Daniel,</p> <p>I used the 80-200 D for years and it's a great lens. Took thousands of news photos with it and it never let me down. A few years ago I started shooting sports again after a long hiatus. What I found is that the auto-focus speed of the 80-200 D was causing me to miss shots.</p> <p>I invested in the 70-200 VRII and the problem was solved. On a tripod, pointed at a stationary object, I think you'd be hard pressed to notice the difference between the two lenses, unless you're a pixel peeper. But used to cover actions sports, the 70-200 VRII nails many more shots than the 80-200 D did.</p> <p>The 70-200 VRII is a great lens, my only complaint is the lens hood. It gets knocked loose too easily. When shooting football, my main lens is a 400, with the 70-200 on my back up body, hung by my side. Twice this season that stupid hood has come off as I'm hustling up and down the sideline during a game. And it's $48 to replace. I gaffers tape it on now before each game.</p> <p>But again, it's a great lens for action photography.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>The Leica stuff may bring in a few hundred dollars, but unfortunately the Nikonos stuff will be a harder sell. Those cameras needed regular service to keep them water tight. And servicing them is expensive. Also, I can't remember which flash it was, the 102 or 103, but one of them had a faulty circuit that when it got wet inside it could explode the whole flash body. They were recalled and replaced by Nikon with the 105.</p> <p>I agree with the statements above, it might be worth hanging on to the Nikonos stuff as a memento of your grand dad.</p>

<p>I've been caught out by what Ilkka talks about above. Looking at a NEF file on the camera LCD after taking a picture, looks low quality. Same image on my desktop looks beautiful.</p>

<p>I had my 24-70 serviced when the zoom started getting "crunchy". It felt gritty as you describe. Nikon had an issue with that lens, something to do with the plastic parts that operate when it zooms. Talked with numerous folks who experienced the same thing. Luckily mine was still under warranty.</p> <p>$600 does sound like a lot, but if they will bring it back to factory fresh specs, I think it might be worth it. Especially if you use it a lot. It's a great lens, optically, and if you got 7 years out of the first $2100 investment, maybe a $600 investment will give you another 7 years. I don't know that the new 24-70 has been out long enough to get a read on how durable it is as a working lens. I know I put my 24-70 and 70-200 through heavy paces when I'm working, and they've both held up well.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Not to be a stick-in-the-mud, but that looks like the fungus I got on a Nikkor 35mm a few years ago. Looks too dense for dust.</p>

<p>Thanks Marc,</p> <p>I'm sure Amazon reaches more customers than iTunes, my big concern is DRM and I've heard it's easier to get around the digital rights management of ebooks sold through Amazon. As soon as an unprotected copy of your ebook gets posted by someone online, everyone can download it for free, then no more sales. That concerns me. So for now, I'm sticking with iTunes.</p> <p>Thanks again for your interest in my book.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Hi Folks,<br> Just released my first photo book. Four years in the making, shot entirely with Leica M cameras during motorcycle trips to the Black Hills Motorcycle Rally in South Dakota.</p> <center><a id="ipb-attach-url-" title="BookCovWeb.jpg - Size: 96.84KB" href="http://www.l-camera-forum.com/uploads/monthly_10_2015/post-20709-0-05943800-1443714829.jpg" rel="lightbox[2897414]"><img src="http://www.l-camera-forum.com/uploads/monthly_10_2015/post-20709-0-05943800-1443714829.jpg" alt="BookCovWeb.jpg" /></a></center> <p>Available on iBooks <br> <a title="External link" href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/sturgis-stories/id1044391981?mt=13" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://itunes.apple...044391981?mt=13</a></p> <p>Hope you enjoy.<br> Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>I've also found the screens on some of the consumer SLR's can be out of alignment in relation to the focal plane of the film. As well as the mirror may not be settling into it's proper position after each shot, which will throw off focus. </p> <p>You mention you were surprised to find the camera still worked, is it in bad or beat up shape. Could be the lens flange is out of whack.</p>

<p>Just processed my first roll through the camera and am blown away by the accuracy of the FTN meter. All the exposures are spot on. I love it that a meter from 1968 can be so accurate. Hope it lasts.</p> <p>Quick question, can I use a "B" screen from my old F2 with this F camera body, and will it make the FTN meter not accurate? The camera currently has the split image screen it in (I think it is the original screen).</p>

<p>I've been told by Nikon USA that they don't honor the warranty on a resold lens even though it is within the original warranty period.</p>

<p>Thanks guys. I've had some dodgy luck with buying used cameras. Ones that looked good on paper or on the internet, that turned out to have serious and costly issues. This one works well and I like the look and feel of it, just want it tightened up. So I'd like to spend the money on this "bird in my hand" as opposed to taking my chances on a random (bird in the bush) camera.</p> <p>I'll see about Jim at Vermont Camera Works. Thanks.</p>

<p>I found a very inexpensive Nikon F, that has obviously had some miles on it. I find I really enjoy shooting with it, but everything on the camera is a bit loose and maybe a tad "crunchy".<br /><br />Is there someone in the States who completely rebuilds these Nikon F bodies? Looking for someone who could "restore" the camera more so than just a CLA or adjustment. I'm fine with the patina of nicks and scratches, but would like to lose the rattles and sloppiness in some of the mechanics. This is a late Apollo body with a FTN finder that actually works. Would be nice to have it tightened up and smoothed out.<br /><br />Best,<br />-Tim</p>

<p>Shun,</p> <p>Will the E lenses work on the Nikon F6? Not sure if it was introduced before or after August 2007.</p>

<p>Well whatever it is, the camera is back at the shop that was supposed to fix it last time. The shop that supposedly put in a new shutter mechanism (whatever that means). If it comes back and is still screwed up, I'm binning that body and finding another.</p>

<p>Hi everyone. First, I want to thank everyone for their input, it has all been really helpful. This is an issue that doesn't follow logical thinking as I have heard from a number of different technicians I've talked to about what it could be. </p> <p>Andrew made a suggestion that I didn't know was possible. My crude shutter tester uses my Nikon 1 V2 camera. I was not aware that this camera can shoot 1200 fps. Once I figured out how to do that, I was able to make a video, and sure enough, the first curtain is coming completely across, disappearing out of frame, and then bouncing back into the frame for a split second before the second curtain comes across.</p> <p>The V2 will only capture a small area at that frame rate, so here is the slice I took of the shutter mechanism for the video.<br> <img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Slice.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>And here is a Quicktime movie of the shutter at 1/250th of a second (the speed where the issue is the worst). If you watch the video carefully you can see the first shutter curtain finishing it's travel and then "bouncing" back into the frame.</p> <p>http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Bounce.mov</p> <p>Here are a few individual frames from the video (the orange background was the light source showing through the open shutter):<br> First curtain finishing its travel:<br> <img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Bounce1.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>First curtain starting to bounce back into the frame:<br> <img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Bounce2.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>First curtain stops into the frame as second curtain is finishing its travel:<br> <img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Bounce3.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>And finally second curtain finishing its travel (and maybe pushing first curtain back out of the frame);<br> <img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Bounce4.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>Maybe I'm weird, but I do find this fascinating, although frustrating.</p> <p>Thanks again for everyone's input.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>What you see in the image above is the first shutter curtain coming across, hitting the brake, and bouncing back slightly (causing under exposure on the right side of the image) before the second shutter curtain comes all the way across and closes the light path. That corresponds to the direction of shutter travel on the Nikon F2 camera. Other cameras may be different, depending on their shutters and their direction of travel.</p>

<p>I have an older iPhone (4S w/iOS 6) so it uses an older version of the Nikon WMU App. It's pretty basic, doesn't do the things I'd like it to do, but it will trigger the shutter on my Nikon 1 V2 as long as the shutter speeds are the ones programmed into the camera, as Joe mentioned.</p>

<p>Communicated with Sover, and the shop that completely overhauled the camera (including replacing the shutter mechanism) last November. Everyone is in agreement that it's shutter bounce so I'll need to send the camera in and have it fixed.</p> <p>Thanks for everyone's input.</p>

<p>My beloved F2 has an intermittent shutter issue that's driving me nuts. Wonder if anyone else has dealt with this. My best guess is that intermittently the first shutter curtain is hanging up for a split second at just about the end of it's travel (as illustrated by the dark band on the right edge of the photo below). With the back of the camera open I can't seem to make this happen, but from studying the images, that looks like it might be the issue.<br> <img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/F2Shutter.jpg" alt="" /><br> Anyone have any thoughts on this? The camera was serviced less than a year ago and this will happen on two or three frames, every second or third roll of 36.<br> Thanks for any and all input.<br> Best,<br />-Tim</p>

<p>I believe my 300mm f4.5 is an AI-S lens but it definitely has the ED glass. Look for one that looks like this:<br> <img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/300a.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>Mine is super sharp wide open on my F3HP and FM2n.</p>