User_4754088

<p>Wow Rodeo Joe, could you be more of a wet blanket?</p> <p>Hey Jon, Congrats on getting back into the film thing. That F3T is one nice camera. I've got the non-titanium version and I love to still shoot it. Was messing around with some Tri-X pushed to 6400 a couple weeks ago. Much fun.</p> <p>And I'm insanely jealous of your Df. No funds for one at this time, but some day. Thanks for sharing the black & white.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/28sun16.jpg" alt="" /></p> <center><strong>F3HP w/28 f2.8 & Tri-X in Rodinal.</strong></center>

<p>I agree with Nick. Not using flash as much as I used to, but found the orange filter worked really well with the SB-700 when shooting under incandescents. Also, the fluorescent was iffy, as the color of fluorescent lighting can be all over the map with warm fluorescent, white fluorescent, etc.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>The link Helen provides for Authorized Photo Service, they will service grey market cameras and lenses, with one caveat. It has to be a product they service. It can sometimes take a while (read a year or two) for them to be able to service some of the newer products, because they are no longer a Nikon factory repair shop. Therefore they don't get the repair information immediately from the factory when new products are announced. If you are interested in a grey market product, best to call them first and make sure it is one they can service. If so, buying grey market will then only mean having no factory warranty.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Dawn, I spent years doing macro photography with a D100 (APS-C (DX)) camera and the Nikkor Macro 55mm f2.8 Micro AIS lens. And I was very pleased with the results.</p> <p>The 17-55 f2.8 is a really nice lens, and if I was doing photojournalism work with an APS-C (DX) camera, it is the lens I would buy. It is heavy, and it is expensive. You need to decide if it will serve your needs.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Hi Gus,</p> <p>You bring up a point I'm very interested in. With my aging eyes I loved my old M3 viewfinder with it's 0.91 magnification, but I really need an M with a built in light meter.</p> <p>I've been looking at M6 and M6TTL cameras with 0.85 viewfinders which cost quite a bit less than an MP which I would have to order A la Carte to get the 0.85. But are you saying the M6/M6TTL 0.85 viewfinders, even with the OEM MP modification, still flare quite a bit? And are you saying that a new MP 0.85 A la Carte would not?</p> <p>Thanks Gus.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Clear NC on both lenses. No banding anywhere else on either picture.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>:-)</p> <p>Yes, the right part of the background was further away.</p> <p>Something to think about in the future.</p>

<p>Thanks for your input Ilkka. The banding is so faint when you try to look at it at pixel level that it's hard to tell.</p>

<p>Ran into an interesting phenomena on a project I am doing for work. Over three weeks I've shot about 4000 images using a D4 and a D700, and a number of different lenses. On two images (unfortunately ones work wants to use) I've noticed a type of banding in the broad, flat, even toned section of the shot. Reproduced below:<br> <img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Band-1.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Band-2.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>Both images were shot in RAW, ISO 400 and ISO 2000, one from each camera and with different lenses. I'm not sure what is causing this and was wondering if anyone knows.</p> <p>They aren't jpg artifacts because the banding is there on the RAW files, whether I look at them in Apple's Aperture 3 or DNG convert them and view them in Photoshop.</p> <p>The grey image was of football stadium bleaches, way out of focus, and the orangish image was of a brick wall, also way out of focus. Was wondering if the camera sensor might have been picking up the pattern in the bleachers or bricks and that caused the banding. Not sure what caused it and I'd really like to know so I can avoid it in the future. Since it's in the RAW file, there no easy way to get rid of it, short of cloning it out.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Man, if I needed a pro body that would be a great deal.</p>

<p>I really like that. If I had unlimited funds I would definitely buy one of those and put it in a display case.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Arctic Butterfly, very carefully. Works fine if you're only trying to remove dust. Smudges or oil may have to go to the shop.</p>

<p>Hi Barry, read above, the SSD drives, like in the MBA, have a feature that writes over all data that goes into the trash and gets emptied. So the data is gone.</p> <p>Expensive lesson learned.</p> <p>Time to move on.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>I did check and unfortunately, it was active.</p>

<p>Hey Shun, already did that. First thing I did because I have a program for erased CF cards. Went through all six cards that I use in rotation, found images from the three latest jobs, but none from the job I need. I usually shoot anywhere from 700 - 1200 RAW files for each job, and since I use 4 8GB cards (D4) and two 4GB cards (D700), I fill them up (overwrite what was there) pretty quick.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Hey Shun, unfortunately not. I've shot three jobs since then, and I always format the memory cards between jobs, so they've been overwritten at least three times now.</p> <p>Learned a valuable lesson.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Okay, just talked with an IT guy from one of the bigger software companies that makes recovery software. Turns out there's this thing with laptops that have solid state drives like the Macbook Air. Something called Trim. Which helps keep as much space available on the hard drive as possible as some of these SSD drives are pretty small.</p> <p>Anyway, the way Trim works is when you empty trash, it immediately writes over the files you just deleted, which cleans the space up for new information to be written there, but it also means that no recovery software can retrieve those deleted files. And this was from an IT guy at a software company that would like to sell me recovery software.</p> <p>So the NEF files are gone for good. Bummer.</p> <p>Thanks everyone for your help.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Shun,</p> <p>In my research on this I have discovered that it is more complicated than just recovering files on a Mac. All the files were in NEF format (ergo my asking on a Nikon forum). You are correct, many of the programs out there claim to recover JPEG, TIFF and other image formats. The only ones I have found so far that claim they recover NEF format files, also have reviews from users who say the programs don't work. And since they are priced anywhere from $59 - $149, I'd like to hear from someone who has actually tried to recover NEF files from a Mac hard drive, and hear their experience before putting down my hard earned money.</p> <p>I tried one program and it successfully recovered a bunch of images files, which the recovery program claimed to be NEF files, but in actuality they were just random jpgs. I'd like to find if there exists a program specifically for Nikon NEF files that someone who shoots Nikon, may have used with success.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Thanks Shun.</p> <p>I'm really hoping to find someone here who has personal experience with one of the recovery programs.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>I use a Macbook Air when I'm on the road shooting and Aperture 3. Since the hard drive isn't all that big, after each job, after I've sent the selected images to my editor and made back ups of the selects, I dump everything left in Aperture into the trash and empty it.</p> <p>Well I screwed up last week and after dumping everything left in Aperture into the trash, and emptying the trash, I realized I need some of those images back. Unfortunately I've shot two jobs since and all my flash cards have been written over. But nothing else has been done on that MacBook Air since I emptied the trash and I'm wondering if anyone here has had any luck retrieving NEF files off a Mac, after those files had been emptied out of the trash. I've done some research on the Web about recovery programs, but most of the reviews say they just don't work and are a waste of money.</p> <p>Has anyone here had any luck retrieving deleted NEF files off a Mac hard drive? And if so, what was your procedure?</p> <p>Thanks,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Maybe I'm missing something but that looks pretty straightforward to me, from what I saw in the PDF linked to above.</p> <p>My concern with fungus is that even if you kill it and clean it off the elements, if the elements are coated there is a good chance the fungus destroyed parts of the coating, and that I don't know how to fix.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>I'm gonna touch on the other part of the OP question, "Why do I need an NFL body to shoot a high school football game?"</p> <p>Because it takes better equipment to shoot a high school football game than it does to shoot an NFL football game. If you ever get a chance to do a Peter Read Miller workshop (Peter is a SI NFL photographer) ask him what he recommends for shooting High School Football and he'll say, "Throw money at it!"</p> <p>The lighting at most High School Football stadiums is pathetic, to put it mildly. You need a camera body that can produce good images at very high ISO, and lenses that can open up to f2.8. I use a D4 and have a D700 as backup (with grip and EN-EL4 so I can get 8fps, though I still jam up the buffer after 15 shots, which can happen after a few quick bursts of shutter). All my lenses are f2.8 and it is still really difficult to get good images. I usually shoot RAW and have been able to pull a few more stops out of the images. But it is just DARK, DARK, DARK.</p> <p><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/McCoy.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses. It's something to do with the shutter lock out that is supposed to take place until the film advance lever completely advances the film and cocks the shutter. That is not happening with this camera. Once the shutter is cocked at least 3/4 of the way (and the corresponding film is advanced 3/4 of the way), if you push the shutter button (which is supposed to be mechanically locked out at this point), it will depress and half fire the shutter. The mirror rises about half way up, and the whole thing just freezes. You can then put extra pressure on the film advance lever and "over ride" the freeze. But you waste a frame of the film. And I think eventually the whole thing is going to break.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>I've recently picked up a Nikon F2 and discovered a shutter issue. The shutter works fine as long as I make sure I advance the shutter/film winding all the way between each shot. The camera is supposed to have a lock out so if the film is not advanced the entire way, and the shutter is not cocked completely, the shutter button is supposed to not be able to be pressed. On mine, if I advance the film past 3/4, which means the shutter is cocked 3/4 of the way, I can press the shutter release. It half fires the shutter and sticks the mirror halfway up. I can clear this by advancing the film completely (although I waste a frame), but in talking with the folks at Authorized Service here in town (experts on this old Nikon gear) this morning, they said the shutter mechanism has to be removed and a piece replaced ($165). I asked if I could just keep using it this way, as long as I check to make sure I completely advance the film and shutter, and he said yes, but eventually it would completely lock up.<br> <br> Has anyone dealt with this issue before on a F2? I've got a PDF of the F2 service manual, and a complete workshop, but before I tear into it, I was wondering if anyone had advice about what to look for and if there was a particular piece or subsection of the camera that I should focus on.<br> <br> Thanks for any and all info on this.<br> <br> Best,<br> -Tim</p>