User_4754088

<p>If you get a good F2, it will last you for the rest of your life. They are really built to take a beating. The finders are another story. I think the F2AS is probably the best combination out there as far as the chance that it is still working. Many of the other finders had issues over time. Also, if you can get one with a plain prism, I think it's the DE-1, and don't need an internal light meter, you'll again be good for probably the rest of your life.</p> <p>Having had an F2 and an F, I'm partial to the F. No good reason why, just fits me better.</p> <p>Good luck with whatever you do.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>I'm using a Metz flash (EOS version) with my 6D and whenever I try to set HHS, it never takes it, it just goes back to first curtain sync. Can HHS only be set on Canon's own flashes?</p>

<p>Heidi,</p> <p>You know, I'm not sure. When I converted my "very old" 50mm S-Auto to AI, I had to remove the aperture ring (which I mentioned, unscrews off the back of the lens). When I put it back on, I realized I could screw it all the way in until the back of the aperture ring was flush with the chrome mounting surface. To be honest, I never noticed how far it was screwed in when I got it. </p> <p>But by backing it off one complete turn (the ring screws on, but has to be in a particular orientation before it can be linked to the internal aperture mechanism) I was able to get the aperture ring to interact with the aperture tab on my newer Nikon cameras.</p> <p>I think gluing on that piece of rubber would allow your 300mm lens to work on your FM2N, but be aware that it may not work (and may damage the aperture tab on the camera) when you use it on other Nikon bodies. At least with my Nikon cameras, the aperture tab on my FM2N is the most recessed of all my Nikon cameras. The aperture ring on your 300mm lens would definitely hit and probably damage the aperture tab on my other Nikon cameras.</p> <p>PS: IIRC, with older Nikon lenses like the ones we're discussing, when converting to AI, I recall reading about how the technician would put a tiny screw into the aperture ring that would protrude out the back of the lens so as to contact the aperture tab on the cameras. So maybe some of these old lenses were designed to have the back surface of the aperture ring flush with the chrome mounting surface.</p>

<p>This is going to be a little complicated, so bear with me. Many early non-AI lenses, like the 50mm Nikkor SC that I have, have a different way that the aperture ring attaches to the lens, compared to the newer non-AI and AI series lenses. The Aperture ring threads on to these older lenses, and can be threaded onto the back of the lens to the point where the solid black ring on the back of the aperture ring, sits flush with the steal mounting surface of the lens. Looking at the pictures Heidi linked to, it looks like her 300mm lens fits that scenario.</p> <p>In this case, with certain FM2N cameras, like mine, if the back of the aperture ring is flush with the steal mounting surface, it will not touch the aperture "tab" on the FM2N body, so no damage will be done (still not recommended). But many non-AI lenses have a solid aperture ring (with no cut outs) that stick below the steal mounting surface, and those will damage the aperture "tab" on the FM2N cameras.</p> <p>Hope that makes sense.</p>

<p>I had the 17-55 for a while, and though it was sharp as a tack on my D4 in cropped mode, it was quite soft on a D7100 I had for a while. I'm assuming there was a problem with the camera, not the lens, but it was a disappointment after having it work so nice on the D4.</p>

<p>Thank you.</p>

<p>Thanks Igor.</p>

<p>Is there a way to desaturate the red channel in camera, before the data gets into the RAW files?</p>

<p>About 15 years ago I was doing a lot of work with a Canon XL-1s digital video camera and I remember the sensor had a tendency to really over power the red channel, something we always needed to tone down in post production.</p> <p>Well I just got my first Canon digital still camera (a Canon 6D) and am noticing the same thing is happening. Is this normal with the Canon digital sensors? Do they all punch up the red channel a bit? </p> <p>I am shooting in RAW only, and working the files in post, but I am noticing the red channel really needs some toning down in my images and was wondering if this is common?</p> <p>Thanks for any and all input.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Yeah, I really like my Nikon F, and yes, the meter still works and is quite accurate. Makes me nostalgic for the "good ol' days" when cameras really were work horses.</p> <p><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/NikonFsm.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Okay, thanks everyone. Went out and found a new battery (I use the 1/3N, which is harder to come by now that Radio Shack has closed here in the States). And now she's humming along nicely. I think that was the issue.</p> <p>Thanks again for all the replies.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone. The battery is old. I will try to get a replacement this week.</p>

<p>Hey Paul, Battery not new. I will check into that. Thank you.</p>

<p>Having an odd event with my F3-HP. When I was out shooting with it today, a couple times, after I advanced the film, when I went to push the shutter button, nothing happened. It felt "spongey", went all the way down to the stop, but did not trip the shutter. I know the film was advanced all the way. But it wouldn't trip the shutter. I let my finger off the shutter button, tapped it a few times, then pressed it again and it worked as normal. <br> <br> Happened twice on a walk-around today. Anyone else ever have this happen, and know what might be the cause.</p>

<p>Reading over your original post again Ken, I'm thinking it's an issue with the D700 interface with the MB-D10. Right inside the camera body, where the contacts connect to the inner-camera circuitry. That seems like the only place that you can't test, if you've tried other MB-D10's and they have shown the same problem as your original MB-D10. </p> <p>I'd take the body to an authorized Nikon service center (not just a general camera service center) where they should have the proper diagnostic tools to evaluate the interface within the D700 that connects it with the MB-D10.</p> <p>Let us know what you find out, as many of us are using the same D700, MB-D10, EN/EL4 combination.</p>

<p>I've used the 8 AA's in my MB-D10 on the D700 for years. Only drawback I found was not being able to get the high continuous frame rate with those compared to what you can get with the EN/EL4 battery. But if you don't need the higher frame rate, the 8 AA's work just fine.</p>

<p>Congrats. The only way I can use my FM2n is with the MD-12, otherwise my hands are too large for the camera as well. Glad it works for you.</p>

<p>Just got back from a walk-around with my D700 and an old 35mm Nikkor-OC that I just AI'd. Really is a wonderful camera, and the colors are really nice.<br> I mainly use it as a back up for my D4 for work. And I have always liked the original 24-70G f2.8 lens with it (have not tried the new 24-70E).<br> You're right, the 12MP is a bit scant these days, and you do need to avoid heavy coping, but it's still a very usable camera, and a lot of fun.</p>

<p>David, if you get a chance to try a D5 before you decide, I'd recommend it. Got a chance to play with one at a trade show, and I usually shoot a D4. The way the viewfinder is set up, and the auto focus points, are different in the D5 compared to my D4. Maybe there are camera settings that can change the look of the D5 viewfinder, didn't have enough time to explore that. But the camera I used had very bright red LED focus point squares in the viewfinder, as opposed to the less bright focus point rectangles in my D4. The trade show where I tried the camera had fairly dark "mood lighting" which made it more difficult for me when using the camera, as I found the bright red square focus points really distracting. Again, this may be something that can be adjusted in-camera.</p>

<p>As Stephen talks about, I've had Authorized Photo Service work on my film and digital Nikon cameras for a few years now. They do good work. Not sure they can still service the D100, but it wouldn't hurt to ask.</p>

<p>Hey Chip, yeah, I looked at them. It does seem that the production cameras were much shinier and high gloss than the artist renderings. And as someone stated, the blue shirt and blue glass walls may be what gives it that really blue look, when it probably actually silver/gray.</p> <p>Sure looked weird when I opened the email. Like I mentioned, looked like something from the Ironman movies.</p>

<p>Shun, relax bro, I'm trying to have a discussion. Maybe we don't have to take it all so seriously.</p> <p>Nikon sent me an email with that image attached. It certainly didn't look like any Nikon I had seen before. Shiny, blue, logo looked like D6300. So I shared it on Photo.net. I thought that was what Photo.net was for, sharing interesting photographic topics with fellow photography enthusiasts. Does it all need to be so serious.</p> <p>I get your point about not linking images, so I'll avoid that in the future.</p> <p>But can we lighten up a bit? :-)</p>

<p>Chip, I posted this earlier but someone took it down:<br> <img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Matte.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>The one pictured on web sites is certainly not high gloss like the picture at top. Maybe they're just bad artist renderings.</p> <p>And Shun, as I mentioned, it looked like a D6300 on the top picture.</p>

<p>Hamish, you're probably right, it's probably a variation of the D5300. Never seen one polished like that, and in the blue color. From looking around the web, the red D5300, which is available in the States, looks like a dull matte finish. The red one doesn't have the two toned microphone either. Maybe it's a prototype.</p>

<p>Just got an email from Nikon about something to do with their online store, but it had this image attached to it:</p> <p> <!-- <img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Whaaa.jpg" alt="" /> --> <IMG SRC="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18178293-lg.jpg"> <br> I was like, "What camera is that?" Looks like something out of the Ironman movies. And it looks like it says D6300. Anyway, I've never seen that camera. Has anyone else?</p>