User_4754088

<p>I've not shot in a situation exactly like yours, but I might suggest it is the lights themselves. With all these new LED and other types of bulbs, I would not be surprised if the chandeliers in your pictures actually have the bulbs turning on and off at high rates of speed, something that isn't noticed with the human eye, but is picked up by your camera because of shutter speed.</p> <p>Many of the high school gyms I shoot at these days have these new lights that cycle at high speed between light that is white, green and orange. If you are sitting in the gym, the light looks normal, but when I am shooting at 1/640 of a second, at high speed, a series of ten images of a basketball player making a lay-up, the first image will have a strong green tint, the second pure white tint, the third a strong orange tint, then green, white, orange over and over for the series. But again, if you were sitting in the gym watching the game, you wouldn't notice any change in the light color.</p>

<p>Paul, glad to help out.</p> <p>Bob, the adapter I mentioned from eBay (which costs about $12 dollars) takes care of the centering issue in the battery chamber. It holds two 675 cells and does a great job of making contact with both spots in the battery chamber. It also makes it much easier for me to get the battery chamber cover screwed back on. And I agree with you, I've read a number of places about the short life of the hearing aid batteries, so I bought a 24 pack last night.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Not sure how many of you have a Nikon F with the FTN finder like mine, but I made a discovery this week that I wanted to share.</p> <p>I've read that many of the FTN finders are dead, as the resistor ring can have issues and none of the repair shops I've talked to have parts for these anymore. I've also read that many FTN finders had issues with the contacts in the battery chamber making good contact with the two batteries. Mine worked great for the first three weeks I had it, with two old PX625 mercury batteries I had around since the late 1980's.</p> <p>But then it developed an issue where it would just stop working. I would take off the battery cover, try to pry the top contact out from the wall of the battery chamber to make better contact with the batteries, then drive myself nuts with my big gorilla fingers trying to get the battery door back on. With the door off and me holding the batteries perfectly in the middle of the battery chamber, the meter worked fine. Then I'd struggle to get the door back on and by the time it was finally in place, the meter no longer worked.</p> <p>I was ready to give up on it, when I saw this auction on the evil eBay:</p> <p>I can't put a link to eBay on this forum, so just look up Auction #151718676694 or search for: Nikon F Photomic FTN TN Meter Prism Battery Adapter.</p> <p>I have no affiliation with this seller aside from buying one of his adapters. He recommends using a 1/3 N battery with the adapter. I put in a 1/3 N and naturally the meter, which is calibrated for 2.7 volts, was inaccurate with the 3.0 volts of the 1/3 N. Although there was no more problem with the meter not getting juice from the batteries.</p> <p>Then I discovered the 675 size hearing aid batteries at the local Walgreens (at 75¢ each), which are 1.4 volts, and two of them fit perfectly into the above adapter, giving you 2.8 volts. I found that with my FTN, it is now as accurate as it was when I first got it and it was working with the old mercury batteries.</p> <p>So I wanted to pass this along to others who might be having similar trouble with their FTN finders. The thing I like most about this solution is that the 675 size hearing aid batteries are plentiful and inexpensive. So hopefully I'll be able to use them for a long time.</p> <p>Best,<br />-Tim</p>

<p>You think those SD cards are bad, you should try those microSD cards. What was Nikon thinking, putting those in the latest Nikon 1 cameras. No way I could see using those on a regular basis.</p> <p>I've got the situation with the D4 and the two different card types, and I could see where the D500 might fit well into my current kit, so I may have to do some research on those XQD cards, something I've avoided until now.</p>

<p>I can see a market for the D500, though it might not be a large one. There is an explosion of web sites and small companies that have tapped into the high school sports markets. I see these kids (okay, they're probably in their twenties and thirties, but to old farts like me they seem like kids), at every game, three or four of them, and they're all shooting for these web companies and they shoot hundreds of shots per game and just upload them all to the company web site. (I guess the high school kid's parents go to these web site and buy pics of their kids playing). </p> <p>And anyone who has ever covered high school sports knows how unbelievably dark it is, so a DX camera that has some of the same low light and high speed shooting capabilities as the Nikon D5, at less than a third of the price, I think that could sell well.</p>

<p>Thank goodness they finally have ISO 3,280,000. Don't know how I've lived without that all these years. <br> <br> What exactly would you shoot at that ISO?</p>

<p>"Therefore, perhaps AF-P for stePPing motor?"<br> <br> Thanks for the laugh Shun.<br> <br> Wasn't the "P" used for those first Nikon 1 zooms that were supposed to be good for video?</p>

<p>Ken is the best Canon FD specialist in the States, but he is smart in holding back on servicing certain lenses that he no longer has spare parts for. I sent him my pristine 85mm f1.2 L lens a few years ago because it had developed quite a bit of dust inside over it's thirty some years of use. At first he said he'd rather not open it up and service it. Like an idiot I pressured him to do it and when he opened it up, a part broke that he had no replacement for. I felt terrible for pressuring him, and he felt terrible that he couldn't fix the lens without the part. The lens sat disassembled for a number of months, and Ken being the great guy that he is, finally found someone who had the part and was able to obtain it and get the lens back in perfect working order. </p> <p>Now I know why he hesitates on servicing certain FD lenses.</p>

<p>Folks, some really beautiful photos this week. Thank you all for posting. And Happy New Year.</p>

<p>Terri, you're looking at two pretty different lighting conditions if you're talking about high school football and high school baseball. </p> <p>I use a Nikon D4 with very fast telephoto lenses (300mm f2.8, 400mm f2.8) for high school football, because you don't get much darker than high school football fields on Friday nights, and you need to be able to keep your shutter speeds up there to freeze the action.</p> <p>For high school baseball, I can get away with a Nikon 1 V2 w/FT-1 and a 70-200 f2.8 VRII lens, because there is so much light.</p> <p>Try to find the Nikon camera body with the highest usable ISO rating, that you can afford.</p>

<p>That is really cool. I had no idea you could see the International Space Station that clearly from earth. Bravo.</p>

<p>Shun,</p> <p>The 8 AA batteries never worked on mine. Couldn't get the higher frame rate. Had to go with the D3 battery, which I wasn't real happy about having to purchase, but it does make my D700 shoot at the higher frame rate.</p>

<p>And with the D300S/D700, you only got the increased frame rate by using the "pro" Nikon rechargeable battery from the D3/D3S. Using AA batteries or two of the batteries that came with the camera does not increase the frame rate.</p>

<p>Experimenting with a new lens on my A-1</p> <p><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/ExpCanA1.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>Canon A-1 w/50mm f1.4 & Tri-X, shot wide open.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Ken is the best. He's done a number of cameras and lenses for me over the years, can't say enough positive about his work.</p>

<p>Weird, never had the happen with B&H before. Every package I get from them, including the two sitting behind me that arrived this week, always have the B&H tape on the outside and always have a receipt on the inside. Lately (last year or so), when I've had orders that came from two of their different warehouses, one box had the typical B&H receipt and the other had just a Xerox copy (in the old days they were both typical B&H receipts).</p> <p>I'd give them a call, I'm sure there's an explanation.</p>

<p>After many requests, <strong><em>Scenes From Sturgis</em></strong> has been released on <a href="http://amazon.com/" rel="nofollow">Amazon.com</a> as a Kindle eBook for Android smartphones & tablets.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/SFSCover.jpg" alt="" border="0" /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018UML8JQ" target="_blank"><strong><em>Scenes From Sturgis</em></strong> on Amazon</a><br /><br />It's similar to the iBook <strong><em>Sturgis Stories</em></strong>, but has more pages of photographs.<br /><br />Best,<br />-Tim</p>

<p>Ken Smith, old school pin-striper extraordinaire. And a real character.<br> <img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Ken1.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Ken2.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>One of the featured artists in <strong><em>Sturgis Stories</em></strong>.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Jeff Linssen, Tattoo Artist, Biker, Great Guy<br> <img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Jeff1.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p><img src="http://www.timcarrollphotography.com/Forums/Jeff2.jpg" alt="" /><br> Leica M3 w/50 collapsible Cron, Tri-X</p> <p>One of the featured artists in the photo iBook <strong>Sturgis Stories</strong>.<br> https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/sturgis-stories/id1044391981<br> Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>I agree with you Shun. Will be interesting to see what the D5 has. I too was disappointed when the D4 came out with the XQD as I have no other use for those cards.</p>

<p>The advantage I find with the 70-200 2.8 VRII is in its auto focus abilities. The speed of its auto focus is faster than other lenses I have used in its range. That's why I use it for basketball. Never was concerned with whether at f2.8 it has more isolation that an f4 would have at f4. I get isolation because the players are much closer to me than they are to the background.</p> <p>And I'd go a little easier on that Getty photographer, what seems like spray-n-pray to you may be getting a certain expression or light in the eyes of a particular player he has been assigned to focus on.</p>

<p>Well that was interesting. Got it all cleaned up, re-lubricated it (with motion picture camera lens lube, which is a bit thicker than SLR lens lube, but it was all I had) and put it all back together again, and much to my relief, it works great. No more slop, nice smooth focus.</p>

<p>Steven is right, just seems like a really stupid design by Nikon. I have the same issue with my D700, having to remove the grip to charge the battery in the camera body. Been an annoyance for the last six years. Nikon should have done better.</p>

<p>Hi Joe,</p> <p>This is one of the earliest Nikkor-S Auto lenses. If you look at the list of lenses, by serial number and date, and by conversion kit to AI, you'll see that the early lenses like mine have a totally different mount set up. The three slotted screws do remove the baffle from the lens, but removing the baffle doesn't help me get to the focus mechanism.</p> <p>I've got it completely apart now, just need to clean and re-lube the focus, and get it all back together again, and hope it still works.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>

<p>Hey Joe,</p> <p>Unfortunately, the NIKKOR-S Auto I have is one of the early ones, and the way they did the mount back then is different from how the later Nikkors were done. You need to take most of the lens apart to get to the screws needed to remove the lens mount. That's what I did, and how I have the lens almost completely apart. Hope I can get it back together again.</p> <p>If anyone has a PDF for servicing these early Nikkor lenses, I'd love to take a look at it.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p>