randy_boren1

(As little use as the cameras get I may not live long enough to expose forty roles of film). I know that feeling all too well myself, the point of my "20 rolls" is to become very accustomed to the operation particulars of each cameras metering patterns, you may be able to learn them in 10 rolls or even 5 rolls. The FTB has a simple light meter, the only "computer" is in your brain, that meter is giving you a reading of the light to produce a 18% gray tone, you have to determine "is what the meter seeing actually 18% reflectance" if it is then you have a correct exposure, most times it is not 18%, if the subject light is lighter then you overexpose, if it is darker then you underexpose, you determine how much to over/under expose and that knowledge come from experience. The A1 has a much more sophisticated metering system. It does some of the calculation for you but you can still modify the exposure for unusual lighting scenes. After learning how the A1's meter worked I was able to trust it for most scenes, I just paid a lot of attention to large areas of bright or dark tones that were not the main subject that would affect the auto exposure.

Many of these cameras used 46mm non-perforated film. 46mm was much cheaper than 70mm plus you really did not need that big of a neg for head shots of 4th graders.

The FTB and the A1 are both great cameras BUT they are vastly different and should not be compared to each other. I used both from the mid-70's to the early 90's. Each had it's own learning curve. Once I learned the particulars of each model I was able to switch between them with little problem. I would advise you to shoot with only one for 20 rolls so as to learn how best to use its features and limits. Then use only the other one for 20 rolls to learn its features and limits. If you try learning both at the same time you likely will become very confused. Each model has its own mindset.

Your lens is the 4 element Xenar, it is very capable of making excellent landscape photos. Consider it a general purpose lens, it was sold as the entry level lens for 4x5 cameras. The more expensive Symmar is a bit sharper in the corners but you won't see it until you enlarge to 20x24 or larger.

Look for a shop that sells self defense equipment. Some of the items use the 6volt px28 style batteries. Also some hardware stores carry the batteries for electronic gizmos that are now on the market.

Now I understand the frustration, yes, using a grad filter on any format can sometimes be a problem but as with most things related to photography, the more you practice the easier it gets. I did try, once, to filter only the sky in a rather dramatic setting by sliding a gel filter down in front of the view lens and then transferring that stopping point to the taking lens, it sort of worked but it was a pain. IMO (in my opinion) the cheapest and or easiest solution to your problem is to sharpen your powers of compositional previsulation, ei, shoot with the 6x9 but compose the scene for cropping to 6x6. RB

Please explain, why are you having a problem using filters with a TLR? I have been using them on my Rollei TLR since the mid-70's without a problem. The one filter that requires some effort is the polarizer but once you get the SOP down it is not difficult at all. If you are having a difficulty seeing what the filter does to the scene then just buy 2 filters, one for the view lens and one for the taking lens.

A quick Google search shows that it is an analog recorder, circa 1985. I see this type of camcorder a lot at yard sales/estate sales, most people can't give them away. I have also seen them at Goodwill, $9.99 or less. Good luck RB

If you want to sell the counter knob I may be interested. The one that is on my 3.5E-somethiing is acting up, hard to click. I had the rolleikin on my first 3.5E back in the 70's. I very much enjoyed using it with Kodachrome 25 taking closeup pix of wildflowers. I also used it a lot taking candid family photos, using the sweet spot/center of the 75mm lens made for very crisp images. Be sure to get a copy of the instructions, they will help you understand the sequence of operation of the Rolleikin.

Back in the day (early 70's) I used Kodak Infrared film for landscape photos. At that time it was not recommend to use a light meter since the meters did not "see" infrared light and the amount of infrared light varied greatly depending on clouds, haze angle of sun, time of year. Clouds actually don't stop that much infrared so if you used a meter you could greatly overexpose your film. I followed the suggested exposure sheet that came with the film. The suggested times included using the 25A red filter, other filters ( 29A, #15 orange) had filter factors to add or subtract from the base exposure. I suggest you bracket your exposures. It takes a lot of practice to be able to nail the infrared exposure. Good luck.

Please don't be offended, what you have here is a mug shot with a fancy background. Flat, even lighting, it doesn't add character to the photo. Your lights are too close to the camera, thereby showing 2 catch lights in the eyes, there should only be 1. Spotting out the less dominate catch light will make a big difference. Put a little more distance between the subject and the background so that the bkg is softer in focus and a little darker, that way it won't compete with the subject. Your lighting ratio should be a minimum of 1:2, depending on the subject you can go all the way to 1:4. In a formal portrait, women should always have a little to a lot of soft focus diffusion, IMO the Zeiss Softar type is the best, it is made by several filter brands and is a lot cheaper than the Zeiss. Don't misunderstand me, your photo is very good for a basic headshot used in an annual report or church directory, I've done hundreds. As I was learning more about portraiture I studied Yousuf Karsh and Dean Collins plus Kodak had a series of excellent booklets for the portrait photographer.

Decades ago, long before drones or even Google maps I was hired for aerial photos of some property. The budget allowed for a small helicopter, Robinson 22, 2 seater. Doors off, the flight was breezy but nice. Lots of vibration. Things I would suggest you look out for:1. make sure all cases/bags are closed and lids secured. 2. make sure bags are not in the way of any controls this includes your feet. 3. don't stick your hands/arm out of the open door, I did this and was immediately hit with massive static in the headphones. The pilot said the downdraft wash created the static and I grounded it. Perhaps your copter won't have that problem. 4. always do exactly what the pilot says. 5. check and recheck that your seatbelt/harness is secure. 6. have a good time.

very nice, excellent sharpness

May I ask for your processing info, developer, times, temp, agitation routine. Your images look very good. I came across a 400ft roll of 5222 an am having a bit of a problem with it. It has a bit of age fog, most of my images are good but I'm looking to get better quality. I may have to go with using a restrainer to clear the fog but I know it will screw with the contrast and not give my optimum tones. Thanks, RandyB

I use a microwave oven to heat some of my b&w chems in the winter. A 1 litre beaker fits nicely in my oven, I start off with about 700ml and heat for about 45 sec, if it is not warm enough I just micro for another 20 sec. If it is too hot I just add a little of the cold chem to bring it down. I use only 1 shot developers that I mix with tap water, my darkroom is plumbed with hot/cold water. I do wipe down the micro oven after I'm done.

The first item could be a film strip adapter for a manual projector, the kind used in schools in the 50's-80's. I remember them being used in science and health class.

Honeywell Nikor did indeed sell a 20 exp reel, I have one in my darkroom which I bought off eBay about 2 yrs ago. They are somewhat rare. I remember selling them back in the 70's.

Very nice product shot.

SOLD elsewhere, thread closed

All sold. Thread closed

Toyo lens board for Linhof style cameras. Copal #1 opening. In excellent condition with a few usage marks. 96mm wide X 99mm tall. Copal 1 opening is 42mm. Shipping is extra. $25.00 Sold as is. no return. no refund. USA sales only. Sold only to buyers living in the 50 US states and shipped only in the USA. No International sales. Payment by PayPal

I use a Premier brand. It looks like a box. The front door is hinged at the bottom and is spring loaded. I only put paper in it when I'm printing, I've had a few close calls when one of the grandkids asks "what's in here, granddad?". New ones, if you can find one, can be quite pricey. I've has mine for about 30 years, no light leaks

I have one of those, bought it new back in the 70's and used it quite often. When used correctly it did give consistent results but its use was rather finicky, there cannot be any safelight on in the room when you are using it. I used it with a diffuser under the lens. It is basically a comparator?, you first make a properly exposed print via test strips, then with the diffuser in place you null the meter. As you change to other negs or you change enlargement size the meter will give you an exposure time that will be in the ball park. You then can fine tune your exposure with more tests. The meter can be a big help for production work especially if you have established consistent exposure/development procedures. I stopped using mine because I now have safelights on all the time over the print sink and they screw with the meter reading plus I no longer do production printing.

#1 ME Super is SOLD #2 is now $50.00 #3 is now $15.00 #4 is now $10.00 #5 is still $20.00

all sold. Thread closed