randy_boren1

Nope, not "complete". It doesn't have the counter/release button for the side of the camera. It would be usable IF your camera already has the counter. Most people who purchased the Rolleikin new put the counter on their camera and forgot to switch back when they sold/traded the camera. The counter by itself is very hard to find. There are hundreds of kits just like yours. Excellent price for what you are offering.

I am assuming that you don't have a ton of these plates to do extensive testing, so you may have to do a Hail Mary. To me, the key words are "barely visible" which indicates gross underexposure. You may have to increase exposure 3-4 stops and increase development by at least 50%. Other things to consider are: Are the plates out of date? if they are, how out of date are they? Are they Panchromatic plates or are they designed for spectral photography, sensitive to a very narrow color of light?

Are you saying that you DID develop the plate and they came out thin? What developer did you use? temp? I've done a lot of testing of films and developers over the decades, when I have a partial failure and when I redo the test I, A: increase the exposure by 1 stop, 2 stops or 3 stops. B: increase the developing time by 50%, 75% or 100%. C: increase the temp of the developer from 68* to 72*, or 75* and sometimes I do a little bit of all three till I get to a useable negative.

SOLD!!!

Clearing out some of my unused film that I have had frozen. 16 rolls of Fujichrome Velvia 100F 135-36 exp. Expired 3-2007, but has been deep frozen since new. $80.00 plus postage. Paypal only. USA sales only. PM if interested

I can't speak for the 20-35L but I did own the 24-35L, it was my go to lens for advertising/annual report photography. It was the only WA lens in my kit that gave tack sharp images to the corners wide open. I still regret trading my FD system but my eyesight demanded I go to autofocus. If I remember correctly, the 20-35L came out as a direct result of the success of the 24-35L's image quality.

I've used Paterson tanks for over 40 years and have never had a light leak from the tank. IMO the only way to get a light leak is to not use the center column and/or the gasket on the older tanks.

<p>The 50mm f/1.4 in either SSC or FDn are top notch lenses. If you want a f/1.2 lens then get the "L" version. The sharpest Canon lens I've used is the 24-35 "L" zoom, outstanding at each FL. It was replaced by the 20-35 "L" and is even better. The "L" lenses are pricey but well worth the cost.</p>

<p>You could try this place. http://www.micro-tools.com/subgrouping.htm?cat=14316</p>

<p>The Canon Lensmount converter P is for using M42/Pentax screwmount lenses on the Canon FD bodies. The converter for using FD lenses on M39 (Leica screwmount bodies) is the "B" mount. Canon made several converters for using other brands of lenses on the FD bodies. "N" for Nikon, "E" for exakta, "A" for using M39/Leica thread lenses (enlarging lenses) on FD bodies. </p>

<p>You might consider the Cherohala Skyway. It goes from Tellico Plains, Tn to Robbinsville, NC. Most of the roadway is above 4000' feet with great views on clear days. There are NO services along the route so gas up and eat up before you enter. Both entrance/exits are rather rural and remote so plan on driving another 2-3 hours to get to a really big city. About half way thru you can take a side trip to Bald River Falls, quite nice. I've done this trip several times, taking all day to go thru the Skyway and then on to the Smokies. The next few weeks would be the best time to go cause at that elevation the leaves start turning much sooner. I usually check their website for updates on the leaf color. Just google Cherohala Skyway. Have fun.</p>

<p>Fall is a great time to go to the Smokies, it is also one of the worst times to go. Bad because everyone wants to go in the fall so traffic is terrible. Most of the motels jack up the room rates because of all the people. I've been maybe 30 times and I find the best way to enjoy the park is to go Monday-Thursday, Fridays start to get busy, Sat and Sun can be maddening. The Fall leaf season actually extends into the first 2 weeks of November, while the leaves are all gone up on the mountains there is still lots of color down low especially along the rivers. The weather can be great but it can change in an instant, I've been there when one day was sunny and in the 60's and the next day there was snow, sleet, rain up on the mountain tops. Go, have fun.</p>

<p>You really can't compare them against each other. Each is a fine example for their individual intended purpose. Just get both and use them.</p>

<h1>JJ golden, nice image.</h1>

<p>Try taking the winder off the camera and then reattaching it to the camera. Sometimes the little tangs on the winder don't engage the slots on the camera winder shaft correctly thereby causing a bind. Even though the tangs are designed to retract until engaged sometimes they don't. Back in the 80's I used a pair of A-1's with the A-2's for Pro work, loved them, metering was spot on even in difficult light. The only problem I had was the PC flash connection, I had a repair man resolder the PC plug with silver solder which fixed the problem. You may also have an electrical problem such as what Gordon has said.</p>

<p>After studying the photo a little closer I see a pulley wheel on the far side (non-toothed) which is powered by a large belt from a tractor or other power source. </p>

<p>Your "Mechanical wacha-ma-call-it" could be a sorghum press. Looks like a trough at the bottom for the juice to drain. This press looks to be incomplete as there is another set of gears on top which connect to a long pole which is hooked to a mule/horse. The mule walks in a circle (30') around the press turning the gears/rollers, workers feed the stalks into the rollers which squeeze out the juice which is then boiled down to make sorghum molasses. Very common is the southern farm states. I've had many a breakfast treat of sorghum molasses, butter and hot biscuits.</p>

<p>I just flew into Denver from Missoula, Mt this past Sat. 27th, looked down and saw lots of color in the mountains. You may be too late for color in the higher elevations.</p>

<p>Thanks for posting, brings back memories. in the mid-60's I remember well wearing out the pages of the photo magazines in the school library, most were several years old as they were donated by someone. I was paricularly fond of the Freestyle ads, super cheap Government surplus film and paper. </p>

<p>Yes, the finders are expensive. Many times I don't even use my finder, I've become so accustomed to the angle of view I can come pretty close to framing what I want to show in my landscapes. I just make sure the camera is level. The wideness of view and clarity of the image can be truly amazing, much more so than 35mm.</p>

<p>Yes. You can double-check the price by going to the KEH site. When they have them for sale SWC-M's usually go for 2000-3000. Great WA camera.</p>

<address>While there were Disc cameras made that were very cheap 95% were made for long term use just like any other Instamatic-type camera. Some of the really inexpensive ones did have built in batteries but most had replacable flat-pack batteries which are no longer made. Many of the highend cameras from Kodak and other manufacturers were very well made and expensive unfortunately the tiny negative size made for crappy photos. While working at a custom photo lab I've made enlargments up to 8x10, they weren't very pretty unless viewed from about 20 feet. </address>