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chuck_foreman1

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Everything posted by chuck_foreman1

  1. Here's the link to Henry (Contax God ) Scherer's discussion on the framing problems for the Super Ikonta http://zeisscamera.com/articles_spacing.shtml RE: Gary Green advice.. Well said, professional instead of friends... I appreciate your reply!
  2. I've read too that the RF wedges are a major pain. IIRC Henry Scherer discussed this 11 frame winder on his page describing in detail why you won't be able to get 12 frames...even if you offset the start...ie the counter won't go beyond 11. LONG BORINBG (SAD) STORY FOLLOWS... I have(had ) a likely pre-war 532/16. The Compur shutter needed work ..it would sometimes fail to close completely leaving a pinhole that fogged the pictures.. it didn't happen all the time, but enough to make you mad. I lent this to a friend...who returned it some years later. I decided I would exercise the shutter to try and overcome this problem (bad idea BTW) . I was rapidly cycling through the firing, when suddenly the shutter jammed. I had recently made friends with a Russian man, who repaired cameras so I passed this to him. ... I have periodically tried to get this returned... The poor man is totally overwhelmed with life and can't seem to wrest control. Years have gone by and finally after a period of 2 years for the RF on my Contax IIa (3rd time he had the camera) I did something a bit mean. He would not reply to calls, email or even written post. This man hasn't a mean bone or was trying to deceive me, he just can't get it together. Oh, it's probably important to mention, that although I offered to pay, it seems he "wanted" to do it for free, but.. paying jobs took front and center. Probably the reason for procrastination and failure to move forward. I mentioned, what I did was mean?? I knew where he worked, (repairing cameras) so I wrote to the proprietor explaining we had children in the same school and I had lost touch with him and could you point me in a direction to find him ... some of this was BS of course. Worked like a charm. He contacted me the next day. He wasn't too happy. I likely embarrassed him,...and I think he wanted me out of his life.. He was also in possession of a Contax RTS which he wanted to fix the the changeable screen. So we met up and he brought both the IIa and the RTS.. He had renewed the seals and the rf ..very dim was there if you looked close enough. He also "gave me" a Mamiya 645 Super with an 80mmm and 150mm lens. Probably out of guilt etc . I told him I didn't need or want the Mamiya, when I asked about the 532/16 he realized he'd forgotten that...been looking at it for years. I had over the 10+ year period ..simply asked that it be returned. Ss I haven't been in touch with him at all. I like to think that one day cleaning his bench he's going to contact me to return it. I digress BTW the Mamiya gives only 15 of the 16 frames you'd expect with a roll of 120.
  3. Film Friends... I am back!! My postings from the recent past is nearly done. When I found my notes ( necessary for older absent minded gentleman) I realized I was caught up- There remained the three rolls from this fall...that still weren't developed. A reprieve in the weather has finally brought about my renewed interest and.. I still hadn't shot the Tourist II I so bravely listed in the "weekend" cameras (porn section) back in ?? December. Sooo with renewed interest I ventured forth to shoot the loaded Tourist and loaded my (2nd only) roll to the the Contax IIa. I wasn't able to complete these respective rolls, but did ...much to my detriment.... develop the outstanding rolls....... The Kodak 35 RF (new to me, first roll) must've jammed. The film was ripped while trying to load in tank, not a good sign. I was able to tag the last bit of the roll to the spiral.. but there were no further exposures... those that were there were??? The longer roll, the Signet, ...well I opened the camera not realizing there was film in it.. lost a few exposures ...was near the end any way...par The next bit was so avoidable... but Jerko me... I forgot the spindle when loading the 120 film ( Rolleiflex T- 645) . I didn't miss it...until I found it on the desk... (substances and alcohol...might be involved)... so for the most part... this was the disaster I alluded to before.. if not enough...this was almost the epitome of (MY!!) stupidity.... More to come...... I have added the camera porn here... as I can't conform to using the cameras described in the "weekend" section. I have exceptionally (wasted) used Pyrocat HD for the three rolls. Dirty untouched scans... as usual! Kodak 35 (RF) Kodak Signet 35 Rolleiflex T Not a good sign ripped film !! this is the Kodak 35 - RF MY front yard... needs some perspective correction... Well back then it was quasi..Xmas. Seemed like a cool pic then... not so now 😞 last of the Kodak 35 RF The following pics are from the nice Signet with the Ektar... The "Good"...Photographer ... is that my thumb?? Kyffhäuser Haus Oberkassel Familar Rheinscape Begonia and her dog,, neighbor lady I often see when out on photo safari.. .. a little more contrast would help Flowers on the table... (creative titling 😉 ') Geometric Apt house .. Another example of deft ability with a TLR ...I'll spare you the agony of the other fogged pics.. as this roll was a wash.. Looking forward to shooting more in the coming months.. I hope the quality come up 😞
  4. Maybe unrelated and off-topic.. but visual copy to the Minox is the Voigtländer Vito CS IT is battery dependent, but delivers nicely with the 2.8 Skopar..and talk about small! I read this is not Voigtländer but actually is bult by Balda.. IF you need the Minox, but not the price...try this one!!
  5. Biotar..Biogon.. Bio-logy! Of course Biogon!! Slip of the Bio there.. mea culpa !! 🙂
  6. I re-read this thread from 12c years ago.. I came here looking for a definitive reply regarding the 50mm lenses on the Kev 5. There are 3500 places to inform that the normal 50s won't fit the Kiev 5. How about the other way around. If the 50mm for the Kiev 5 are using the outer helicoid then theses outer helicoid lenses should work on other Contax/Kiev bodies ? No ? Reading the thread reminded me of the lack of uniformity in construction where the quality control is all over the place and jokes about Vodka rations make the rounds. I have been hesitant to try these 50mm outer-helicoid lenses on other Contax/Kiev bodies for fear I won't be able to get them off or break them trying to fit. Can anyone answer with any authority this question: Do the 50mm Kiev 5 lenses (Jupiter 8 and Helios 94) work on the outer helicoid of earlier Kiev/Contax models?
  7. So you sent an F3 for repair, and they returned an F? Were you able to to recover "your" F3 ? Or was it.. you bought an F3 from KEH, and they shipped an F instead?
  8. They both sound nice... What does the 53 have ..besides a lower serial number and closer to the nascent Contax crossover? I have a much later Kiev 4AM. I use primarily the very nice Jupiter 12 35mm Biotar. The build quality is well .."soviet" .. there's a few maladies like the failing of the curtain to clip when winding, which will fog a frame beyond use. But it happens so seldom....when moving from a slow speed like 25 to a 250..if at all. (masking the lens with a hand or cover with every wind is one sure way not to regret..not covering it :).. Lately, unable to wind on ... a few taps on the shutter release button will then allow the film advance to proceed. There is also an intermittent light leak ... it usually is on the edge, but when I see one of pics.. I know which camera it was b/c of the light leak . The Contax winds much nicer.. less than the coffee-grinder of the later Kiev. My pre-war Contax is a bit shabby but works well. No issues to complain about. I think they are of course very similar in the handling. I am currently trying to "cull the herd". Considering selling the Kiev as the Contax is overall more desirable. I have used the Kiev quite a lot over the last 10-12 years and always pleased with the handling and the results. If a low model year like early fifties were around, I might be seduced into having another. The Kiev 5 is a poorly executed impreovement. The only thing I can say positive is the finder has a frame line. The lever advance is awkward as the "improved" top super structure makes the camera extremely top heavy. The side location of the rewind and its weirdness.. does function.
  9. Well before it gets too late into the weekend.. I will try to get a post in as well.. Here I used the very nice Nikkormat FT3. Among those cameras in my possession, this is one of the nicer (clean) pieces. I'm all for patina and honest wear, but good condition is still something to applaud. I shot this roll this past summer. I used the 28mm Kiron. I posted an earlier version of the Antonius Kirche I made with the 101mm Ektar on 6x9. Here I had the wider lens and I was able to utilize it to advantage. This Nikon is of "the golden years" vintage. It is heavy and quite large. Abnormal is to have the shutter on the lens mount ring. While my meter is sometimes "jumpy" it is quite reliable to ascertain the exposure. Behold. My usual APX100 in D76 1:1 Lovely Brute I love the Nikon on the back. looks so cool!! Note the round finder Nearby Street; Schanzen Strasse The previous shot was just in front of the middle tree.. this is Columbus Strasse looking towards Schanzen Str. This fountain on quarter is called Barbarossa Platz.. named NOT for the invasion of Russia, but its namesake; a medieval king and HRE in the 12th century. Not what I wanted, the light was filtering nicely through the trees, but my exposure is rather flat ..the lighting was dramatic . While I probably should do perspective control, the amount of the subject fits easier with the 28mm lens. I have featured this Land Records Bldg before, it was from a sharper angle to try and fit the whole bldg The center feature, the columns, the figures and the top balustrade A nearby Lamborghini
  10. Hi Rik, Looking forward with great anticipation... So pleased to see a working copy..being worked!!
  11. Another week, another camera. Here I am shooting the Nikon 801s. A friend had given me 2 of these as he couldn't be bothered to sell them. Although I suspect he still has his FM2ns and/or some other valued Nikon gear, he has abandoned film. for the moment. Initially, they both worked, but as I was dry testing them later, I determined the one doesn't advance the film. So I have this one. I suspect I used the 28mm Kiron (One day I will get a Nikon wide-angle..for the glass 🙂 ) While I was pleased with the rendering . The photos were for the most part repetitious in all senses of the word...meaning you've probably seen these scenes before and I took multiple exposures of the same subjects...again 😞 My usual APX100 in D76 1:1 Bruisin' Buddies... I did manage to sell the 801 for 5,00€ Note the light leaks... I suspect this is the cartridge and not the camera.... I hope :) This is my apartment on the right . Needs perspective correction We've all seen scene this in various views. Seems sharp..but would a Nikon lens (WA) be sharper?? Posted this scene/subject previously too. When light is so strong I like the relief of the building. A/the previous post I did was using a longer (80mm Tessar? ) lens. Was better IMHO
  12. Film friends.. Once again we are assembled to share our photo results from film cameras. As I am perpetually behind in processing and or posting; I will share some of my mid summer exposures using my rewer (to me) Contax RTS. I doubt if anybody recalls an earlier post of the Contax IIa, where I lamented replacing it with newer one after being frustrated by my 10 year old under used exemplar. with on going shutter issues.. The same thing happened here. I bought a RTS and later found that the shutter was intermittent. Sometimes the first curtain doesn't release and you have a blank frame. It will work about 90% of the time if you A: wait a long time (5-6min) before frames B: Exercise extreme care when cocking the shutter. So after 5 years or so, I have now replaced this with a more reliable exemplar. I think in each case , I spent 70-80 Euros . I likely used the 35mm as pictured, or the 28mm My usual APX100 in D76 1:1 This 35mm lens has some issues.. Welcome shade on a hot day. The building is the newly erected community indoor pool. I likely have featured this building as it dominated the skyline and is really close to me. .. note the usual poor handing.. scratched and bromide drag ..again!! Another try for a summer view.. I want this to contrast to a winter view I made before.. can't seem to get what I want..Try Try Try again This is from another roll.. no bromide here Autobahn Lighting .. well I tried
  13. I'm just going to guess? Does it have a window? Is there a "Start" marking in the chamber? Many "Cord" copies just use the window. It may also be a subset of that; where you use the window to get to the first frame, and thereafter they are measured so that the winding maintains the spacing of the frames. It may be if you have a start mark in the chamber it will advance correctly to the first exposure and thereafter maintain the frame spacing. The "button" is likely a double exposure prevention. You have to press the button to advance the film, and as mentioned the gearing will advance the frames ( and may cock the shutter too.? 🙂 ) My Yashica D works with the "Start" mark and the first wind brings it to the first exposure. Thereafter it maintains the framing and likely counts the exposures too. After the 12th exposure it will wind the film endlessly ie the end of the film is rolled on the spool. I do have to manually cock the shutter. Hope that helps!!
  14. Sometimes you have to accept these idiosyncrasies. I have two of these and they both work intermittently. When it works, it works great. Sometimes I pick it up and it works, other times I start with it not working, but later it will come on board. When I bought the second one... I thought; cool I got it! But now it acts much like the other one. It just makes me crazy... I also have the "Super" which I bought (stupidity) thinking it was the same ie not the "B" It has a non-coupled selenium meter that consistently works, but the values seem to be wrong . Off setting the meter can work on this.. but that wasn't the point!?!? I do really like the rendering of the Tessar on this. Very contrasty ..love the blue skies when using color film Where are you in the world? If you're in Europe, I will happily send the intermittent Super B.
  15. @Gary.. Ohhh Nooo!! Been there .... Murphy and all... I hope the repair is successful...try a l shortened roll this time 😉
  16. Ohh right ..you were my inspiration to get one of those.. clearly the Ektar is a Tessar type. I've recently acquired more Kodak "stuff" from this era. Were these also "Dia-postive ie B&W sldes?
  17. Thanks all who replied. I realize now, that these coolers only have warm or hot and no "control".. Taking it a step further... other people also wanted to control temperature. I didn't find any that were were for photo chemicals per others were for incubators, fermenting home-brewing so "quite " exact was the goal. There were a lot of DIY You-Tube videos. This one was geared to my "cooler" concept While I'm not lazy nor is this beyond my skill level, .. I did want ro buy ( Prêt-à-Porter ) a solution with a cooler... I guess I'll have to think about this some more!!
  18. Like Maris and others.. I generally work at room temp. Sorry to jump on an old thread here.. but I noted a few things and was hoping someone could add to this. Both my dilution water (tap or distilled) is at the same temp as my stock solutions. I saw some use the ilford guide lines while others have even written a program to calculate the difference. Meanwhile, the "Massive" Development chart has a Time/Temp converter tool. You put in the recommended time and then the current or actual temperature and you get the new recommended time for this temperature. But when the room temp is too high ..in the summer it might be 28-30c, or in winter in the 12-15 Celsius the times become exaggerated to the point that it is not recommended to use for various reasons. I noted my friend Bill uses a cooler and this seems to be a very logical answer to maintain temp. I thought in the modern world I frequently see coolers that (seem to me) to be adjustable and can keep things hot or cold based on DC power. I've seen where you plug-in to the cig lighter and use the cooler to maintain a constant temperature. This seems ideal ...or is this NOT how they work?!? I imagine a work flow where I place or keep the various liquids , stock solution, water for dilution, and fixer. Assuming this is possible; set the temp and wait about an hour to let it settle in. Ideally you have a thermometer showing the temp. Even if you can only use the cooler to "maintain" the temp, having the temp readout of the "internal temp" would make it worthwhile. In some examples above, you are creating a bath for chemicals to sit in (inside the cooler or otherwise. I think a temp controlled cooler would be a less fussy and maybe more reliable system. Interested in any feedback on this? I noted these DC coolers are not cheap!
  19. Greetings Silver Nitraters and Heavy Metal fans. I am moving into this past summer. As I explained, the aging process is taking its toll...not only do I not remember WHAT camera, it's also WHEN used, The file dates are helpful. Here,. I'm shooting the Yashica FXD a nice small (er) SLR and relatively light too. It can only be used with a battery, but it has a nice feature set. Often compared to the stablemate Contax 139, as it too has quartz regulated electronics. They do seem quite the same...although claimed to be different Here, I used both the kit 1.7 (Planar) and the 28mm ML wide angle on this roll. BTW this camera was a gift from a CMC user (quite) a few years back! Outside of my usual practices, I've developed this roll with Pyrocat HD. There is some perforated bromide drag...which generally means too little agitation... in my case I think it was a combination of too vigorous agitation. My HDHS sometimes has me smoking the agitation while daydreaming. Oh...and I managed to badly scratch the film too?!? Generous CMC user, noted the lack of the FXD on the top....must be very very rare ...perhaps this was serviced..he speculated... Somebody had a birthday Another barge on the Rhein Across the street from my apt... this is a traffic monitor for all the traffic lights etc. note the antenna array .. the graffiti was welcomed..ie it was sanctioned This was taken in Venlo in the Netherlands. A popular excursion for local Germans to Holland.. about an hour away...the following pics are also from Venlo a local watering hole...not Waterloo A prominent church dominating the skyline Another church ..from behind A Nymph in the lobby of a restaurant.. the light was just too low.. I see some shake...maybe F2.8 at 1/60th
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