chuck_foreman1

Wow...a method to the madness.. I just quess.. and if I have another camera with me, I will use it to get a distance reading. I also hope for a bit of hyper focal forgiveness.

Hi Gary, Thanks for the link to your earlier post .. I'd forgotten how you resolved. "Flocking" problems like this are irritating 🙂 From Gary Green: My solution was to insert a baffle into the light chamber to attempt to prevent or minimize the light striking this flat portion of the light chamber perimeter at a shallow angle. My choice of baffle was a thin layer of black felt material (non shedding) that I adhered to the light chamber walls just to the inside edge of the flat perimeter close enough to cast a shadow on the flat perimeter but not close enough to the film plane to fuzz up the edges. So far so good; my early results have been promising. My first roll of film since installing the baffle had no frames with the “light leak” issue which is significant because I don’t believe any previous rolls shot through this camera didn’t have at least one frame affected. With this issue hopefully fixed, the honeymoon is back on. I apparently wasn'T as chic in keeping it out of the film plane. I will of course not have to test my latest attempt... but not close enough to the film plane to fuzz up the edges." Seems I "flocked" that up 🙂 If I get back to my Argus 40, I will do this too. My attempt to replace the hinged back..was not very fruitful. Some "self inflicted" problems...you have to live with! Thanks for the reply!!

We would need to see a picture of the interface (bottom of lens) to have a chance at realizing what "mount" or compatibility to products this has. While Samigon is a familiar name, the "after market" lens was hugeand it may well be that they (Samigon) as a lens manufacturer made lenses in many different mounts

Wow Luis color!"" . this is very good. Love it

Greetings CMC fans Did finally develop some film. Weather has been poor. I am also hindered by an orthopedic Boot I am wearing for the next 6 seeks (now 4) . I had a broken right foot for Xma and a broken left foot for Easter. There was no trauma..these turned out to be stress fractures.. I digress. I made a separate post for the ongoing saga with the low-contrast, flare from the Yashica Mat. Don't worry I saved some pics for here 😉I forgot to say in the last post that the working light meter gave up on the last exposure on the roll. Not a great meter, but a good selling point. Gggrrr I acquired a Kodak 35 RF just before Xmas. I believe I posted a few pics from the first roll, which I consequently tore the film mid-roll. I noted that the first (and only) five frames were orderly spaced etc . Meanwhile I was playing with it and the shutter was very intermittent, fired only sporadically.. It took a long time to get behind this, but in Edison fashion (1000,000 attempts) I have figured it out. The release on this camera is awkward and badly placed. As I was fumbling to find this in my first outing, it likely helped. I've determined that once cocked, there is a millimeter of spring return that almost never works completely. The user needs to nudge the release up a bit. It will make a barely audible "tick". Once you start doing this, the shutter fires 100%. I recently took possession of a Kodak Tourist II, which had some light leaks if we all remember well. Reading around referred me to "plastic Dip" I suppose it is much like "liquid Electric Tape" but this could be thinned with Naphtha. That appealed to me and I bought a small can . I liked how easily it was to work with ..and besides the Tourist II, I had a Zeiss Ikon 520/2 Ikomat (US version of the Ikonta) I received this as a gift from a CMC contributor: Gabor Szabo. This had quite a few holes, so I tackled these bellows and while I was very pleased with the process, I fear now either new ones opened up, I did a lousy job, or Plasti-Diüp is not good for bellows patching. I did get some better images..but not the contrast I wanted for these 6x9 negatives The infamous Yashica Mat 124 You've certainly have seen this statue from me before... I need new hunting grounds 😉 This is what I like about Ground Glass focusing This is in pretty good shaper given its age. shutter assembly is not lagging etc on slow speeds. Quite snappy...when it fires!! Close enough to try the RF..seems to work ok.. Interesting half frame image for the finder The Anastar lens is nice for its age! A building at Belsenplatz The Three-Slice House . This was a Thyssen/Krupp building but I think it has changed hands.. flatness issues .. note bottom right Sure looks like light leaks to me... new ones.. or poorly patched old one? May be flare... IIRC I was trying to use the structure to my left to shield the directional light

The order of the pictures is screwed up... I guess I did it wrong!?!? the last two photos do not belong...in fact I now know what I f--...umm did. I added some photos and didn't "insert them" as upon reflection while composing felt these last two pics were ..not the best for the purpose

Hi All, If you've been following my (mis) adventures in the weekly weekend contribution, then you are aware of the "baffling" problem with my Yashica Mat 124. I bought this camera in the US circa 1984 from one of my brother's friend's for $80,00. This was probably only my fourth of fifth camera. I bought it primarily because it had a meter. In the ensuing years I rarely used it. I noted early on there seemed to be a "flare" problem, and each time I promised myself I would use the shade next time, which I consequently forgot ...until I received my next disappointing results. I often thought of this was a flare problem, and my Yashica D never seemed to suffer from this. Suffice to say, I rarely used it, and because I really.. really..should divest myself of photo apparatuses, I was/am convinced to sell this. Given the YashicaMat 124G (with G-old connectors) really brings a good price, I only had to convince the prospective buyer, that this is is the same model in its earliest (and best of course) form. So in light of this, I took it out to play "one more time" and realized the same old problem. Frankly, I should've stopped there. and sold it outright.. But nooooooo. !! I remembered a post from JohnS, a great contributor who has nicely presented a few TLRs, that there were internal reflections causing flare in one of his models. [A light went on in my head] I recalled he had added baffles to disrupt the flow of light to good success. Now inquiring some years later, he referred me to the article, which I re-read with more interest. Meanwhile I did a few Google searches and found this was quite a well documented problem with various old, and new Yashica TLRs. http://yashicatlr.com/BodiesTrim.html#baffles In my reading around, others talked about rear-element gassing out..so I decided to remove the real element first. To the naked eye there was no obvious problem. Upon closer inspection I came across some obvious crud. It was however on the edge and IMHO not likely to influence the result. So after some perfunctory cleaning I reassembled it shot another roll (2nd). Needless to say, this didn't improve matters at all. Having posted some of this already in the weekly post, I was given some good advice. One, that indeed the crud I had on the lens would or could be the problem. So put a little bit of elbow and Q-tips saturated with Windex to the lens. I got quite a bit off, but not all. I felt that the real problem were the internal reflections. Having re-read JohnS' post I noted a reference to "flocking" which I didn't understand. So I did some more reading and now know what it is. [Flocking is essentially very thin velvet.. people use it to line drawers or small boxes ..think jewelry ] I do feel his adding of balsa wood to disrupt the light flow was probably the right way to go. [Probably not relevant, but when designing concert halls the research determined that the ceilings with lots of stucco and protruding objects were a factor in breaking up the sound ] I considered cutting black matt construction paper might do the trick too. Now knowing what flocking was, I determined this was my best route. I found self-adhesive pack of 10 for ??12,00€.. 10x too much. So I used the construction paper idea waiting for delivery of the flocking and made templates for the four sides of the chamber. While the balsa wood was a good solution, I would make a mess of it. So flocking was the path of least resistance. Besides, it could easily be removed After cleaning, some crud is still there. (need to cut my nails!!) Note the mark at circa 3:00 o'clock... I now realize this is likely a result of being dropped. I was trying to see the effect this "chip" in the lens might have, I was photographing through the back of the camera. This really does show how much reflection there might be / is in the chamber. Unfortunately ( or is that fortunately) I don't have any pics showing the process of the flocking. I felt (pun?) it went well with my templates ..the scary part of removing the adhesive and placing it in the chamber was well ...scary but but I needed to be done with it [ like this post??] So here is the back with the flocking...visible here is the next problem. But let us not dwell on new problems ...let's celebrate the success. Very pleased with the contrast and the definition, which has greatly improved...Do you see what I see?? Interesting the top and bottom are good, but the sides... 😞 In conclusion; These models do have a serious baffling problem. JohnS probably gave the better solution with breaking up the light, and as "baffling" is how Yashica also managed the problem..well badly. My exemplar is in good condition, I bought a mint NeverReady case some years back for circa 30,00€ , add to this the four or five rolls of film circa 20,00€, if I'm lucky I can get 250,00 -300,00€ I hope this is informative and helps anybody going down this path, to get their exemplar "popping" as the fine Yashinon lens should. I need to stop obsessing and SELL the ?ucker!!

Well done TonyE. . Malignant Cosina?.. mmmh deserving of more respect...especially in your capable hands.

Nice acquisition ... especially considering the very desirable lens..

That'S great .. It will always be a sense of self-satisfaction now every time you use it. Most of my "§repair" stories end in disaster.. so bully for you!!

Please do post stuwilmur

Thank you BruceZ. The images I posted were the those with the best contrast. The weather has been "dull" with only short periods of sun. Hope to do more with this lens/camera soon!

Ok.. I'm sold...If...If... I mean if, I buy one ..it will be 28mm Tks

Thanks for the feedback..it is appreciated... I was planning to dum...aahh.. sell the Yashicamat. JohnS, I will will PM you shortly.

Well the "glutton for punishment" that I am, I have persevered with my less than satisfactory results. Among the many recent catastrophes was a complete wash on a roll from the Yashica Mat 124. I have always been dissatisfied with the results. It seemed it flared easily. I promised myself I would shoot with a shade...next time. 🙂 Additionally, JohnS posted once with a TLR in his experience suffered "internal reflections that resulted in flare" . A light went on when I read that. Most recently I read on a Yashica TLR website that the "baffling" was done differently on some iterations. Also others claimed a "gassing out" of the rear element as causing the "flare" problem. JohnS re-iterated that. So I did remove the rear element, although I didn't see anything on "Bulb". What I found was not too good. While the roll I put through it using the shade was a complete wash (user error in handling=??), I shot another roll. The results were not encouraging. Additionally, in the previous darkroom session I was disappointed with the results from the Sonnar in the Contax IIa. The highlights were mottled and there was a seemingly loss of overall contrast (flare?) Another contributor (AJG), hinted that perhaps my chemicals were exhausted. I have now shot a new roll with the Yashicamat (duhhh forgot the shade ) and the results were underwhelming. I also re-shot the Contax/Sonnar and those results were also underwhelming. Next: Mix new chemicals. [Although my stock solution D76 is kept in filled to the brim 1 liter brown bottles away from the sunlight... they may be reaching the recommended 6 month shelf life.] I will toss the the liter and then some ..that I have. So I've now wasted two rolls of 120 and 2 rolls of 35mm. Live and learn 😞 Film was Foma100 for the TLR and APX 100 for the Contax...souped in D76 1:1 Sorry about the quality The rear element... pretty dodgy looking... most of the indelible marks are towards the "open" edges?? She my sweet little baby ...I'm her little lover boy Piper Parfumerie FYI This is wide open (3.5) Best of 12... note the tree branches are fuzzy 😞 lack definition This was a much brighter scene than shown here.. the following are Contax/Sonnar - Favorite House nearby .. hard to capture how grand this is Another Rheinscape .. woolly lawn mower in center foreground Palatial house on the Rhein Heiligenhäuschen .. a pilgrimage destination in previous centuries I saw a painting from 1781.. this was desolate in an open field Nearby ..Also a very old property hard to photograph but cool to see. Another .. less than successful attempt Note the little house on the left.. much older than the others.. Charming, but also hard to isolate and capture ..

Thanks for the feedback... I have seen this is aa "kit" lens from before. I have a 28mm Kiron which I use all the time with the few Nikons I have. The 50mm 1.8 lenses are very nice but see very little work. . The shop selling these is now a "Tourist" shop, but 20 years ago was a photo shop. The window with these items reflect probably the owner, still somewhat vested in the shop. I need to sell stuff, not buy stuff... but ...????

Thanks for this detailed explanation about the AI//s lenses. Seems both of these lenses will work with my bodies..just maybe not in program mode ... Do you find the small zoom more to your liking in use than say a fixed length say 28mm. I never seemxs to find the 28mm too wide, but the 35 and some 42 mm lenses I have seem almost perfect for landscapes. Are these reasonable prices for 2nd hand Nikon lenses? The 25 euro more cost does offer a wider focal range,,,is this compromised due to the zoom...Is the 28mm a better glass alternative?

Some rolls never seem to find an end.... Real nice.. is the 010? a prewar Retina? I guess not as the Ektar IIRC was a "lumenized" postwar lens? Excellent pics!!

Thanks for the feedback... interesting too. When I took possession of the camera, I shot a roll and shared some pics with the seller... he commented accordingly, old chemicals.. date film etc... Try Try Try again 🙂

My Nikon bodies are the Nikkormat FT3, F301/N2000 and the F801s. I assume the these lenses will work on all these bodies. The AI/AIs is something to do with the "Auto-indexing" IIRC.. Older cameras need to do "twist" to establish the max aperture?? Something like that.. and the AIS communicate ? mechanically or electrically to the body it'S attributes ie max aperture? I must admit I really don'T understand this too much.. I am confident these lenses will work on these bodies?? Will read that review John... I need to be selling stuff, not buying more!!

I came across these two lenses in a local shop. I have a 1.8 Nikkor and a Kiron 28mm. Although I have no complaints with the Kiron, I felt my Nikons, should sport Nikon glass. In the ad, a short zoom 35-70 and a fixed length 28mm are shown. There are so many Nikon-ista here, so a feedback on the pros-cons of each is welcomed.. As noted I have the 28mm and my style leans to building and landscapes...so tendence towards the wide lenses. The short zoom would be a complement, but the "fine" Nikon glass is welcome and ..?? will it outperform the Kiron?

Thanks for the kind words. .I have now looked at the camera "very!" closely with high powered light and there are quite a few small holes that may not be "burning" a leak , but I think is causing an overall fog.. I may leave it be.. ..fixing things that aren't really broke..usually ends up with them, being ...well-- really broke! The lens was really a motivation ..these pre-war Kodaks have really caught my fancy. Having one in the large,,,albeit 620, format is very welcome.

Greetings Fellow Film Fanatics..... tough act to follow here.. so much excellent work!! My meager offerings are so plebian. I mentioned catastrophes last week..umm ....last time I posted. A complete 120 roll for no explanation was completely fogged. It came out of the camera Ok.. I can't imagine what happed. This roll was from a Yashica Mat 124.. .it wasn't just dodgy looking ..it was completely exposed .. edges and all..as if someone unfurled the roll in daylight and then developed... very disappointed, and then to add insult to injury the roll in the Tourist II, besides being pretty crappy .. wasn't very tightly wound and seems it was also fogged with traces of the backing paper in the emulsion...two 120 rolls fit for the trash... Meanwhile, I've re-shot the Tourist II with moderate success... if you consider leaky bellows and double exposures success. Well all was not totally lost in my developing session. The second roll I put through my (new to me ) Contax IIa with the Sonnar 1.5 was OK. I felt the results lacked a bit of contrast. The weather was overcast..but still?!? Tourist II 4.5 Anaston (closed ) ...need to make a photo with the extended (leaky) bellows. Contax IIa 1.5 Sonnar From the Kodak Tourist II... apparently there are some light leaks in the bellows....might try to patch them as it doesn't seem tooo bad From the Kodak Tourist II .. while semi sharp, I think the "fog" from the leak brings the contrast down. My recent favorite subject St Anthonys in Oberkassel Fountain Nymph....wanted to test the RF.. seem OK! Not too sharp!? Must've moved Office Bldg Similar theme as the previous Some sculpture in the city St Peter Kirche in the city .. the weather was overcast.. the photos are a bit drab The back of said church

BruceZi... very good work... one day I will try this too...' So 55,00/16 is a bit cheaper ..circa half I believe .. I haven't shot/developed C41 for about year. @MJF... that stack of chairs theme... mmhhh seems familiar 🙂

Well I flim-flammed myself...as usual. Last week I noted a process error that resulted in fogging most of a roll. On "my list" by camera were; Rollei T, Signet and Kodak 35 RF. However, the 645 film allegedly from the Rollei was actually from the Mamiya 645 S. I had developed the Rollei roll already weeks (months) ago. So the 15 wasted fogged images were from the Mamiya. So the Rollei T generally delivers. I put the 645 adapter in, and I've never taken it out. Although I did develop those other rolls ...and then some. I will just do the correction for now.. and leave it at that... I will save the other catastrophes.. ummm rolls.... for another post. Exceptionally, I am using Acros II souped in Pyrocat HD Very Nice camera,,despite being tjhe less desirable " T " Living Room window plants..could use some more shadow detail.. They only set this Ferris Wheel up for the XMAS season..looks lovely at night lit up in color! Commerz Bank gets a face-lift This looked a lot better in the finder. ..the line (supposed) leads to the rounded building top.. didn't' quite get what I wanted... 😞 This is the RAThaus. many like the word play.. as this is the city hall .. White roses on the kitchen table