wogears

No. It's got total film clarity.

F100, 105mm f2.5, Portra 160

I believe that the Chinese make knockoffs of all Nikon eyepieces and eyecups.

And keeping it photographic, methylmercury was the cause of Chisso-Minimata Syndrome, famously documented by the great Gene Smith.

I have quite a few MF lenses, Nikkor and Other. With most of my cameras, I can get manual focus very accurately with the split-prism or microprism, but not with the matte field. The stock F100 matte screen is the only one on which I can get a very high percentage of correctly focused images. Is there some quality about this screen that makes it work so well? I have adjusted the diopters where possible, of course; it just seems that the F100 screen gives me the best results by a good margin.

The McLeod gauge mention takes me back a ways.

As stated above, this is likely a result of the scanner software. Your whites are pretty neutral, while the lower-mids and shadows are biased toward red. I would follow Wouter's advice and scan in 16-bit greyscale.

I always remove transient blemishes, and do a LIGHT skin treatment if it is necessary. If the subject wants more, I'll happily do it.

Yeah, I have to ask if you are making good test strips to determine exposure and development time.

My wife is the Wog. I am the Ears. ;)

Ears

It took some serious force to get mine off. I used a plastic jar opener and lots of wrist action, and it kept slipping upward.

Right-hand. Anti-clockwise to remove. You DID loosen any set screws?

I allowed myself ten minutes and only Curves in Photoshop.

TBH, as they say, you can do a fair amount of correction, even in a short time.

Sherlock.

It's fixed! Filing down the stop did the trick. It now focuses to infinity on two separate bodies. Yay me!

Rodeo: I used a soft jar-top remover to get the front collar off. Only took an hour. That's right. An hour. No damage whatsoever, but come on--an HOUR? :) Tomorrow I will take the damn thing apart again, and see what I can do with an extra-small needle file. No, I won't get filings in the helicoids.

It's not a junk lens. :) Since I seldom use the 105 at true infinity, I will probably leave well-enough alone. If not, my last look inside the lens showed that the infinity stop is a simple strip of metal attached to the inner part of the focusing ring. It would be VERY simple to file this stop down about .5-1mm, which would allow infinity focus. It would also be almost impossible (even for me) to mess this up. If I was drunk and got too vigorous with the filing, it would only mean that the lens would focus a hair past infinity, which many lenses already do.

I have a phrase for Jerry Pournelle, but I won't say it in polite (or impolite) society. :) I understand there are beta (really alpha) rolls of this film in existence..

From what I've read, Kodak is pretty far along with E100. Expect to see it this summer.

That would be my guess as well. Some of the screws on the mount looked as though they might have been removed at some time. Not chewed up or anything, but they took less force than I usually encounter to remove them. Still, I saw no actual damage, no shims of any sort. I expect that a very fine file on the ridge at the edge of the mount would do the job. No longer have access to a Bridgeport.

Nope. No change. Next move is probably pulling the lens flange and filing it. Or leaving well-enough alone. ;)

Will do even if it means taking off the [expletive deleted] 'front collar again'.

This is what Richard's site says about those screws. "Let’s go back to the front! We need to remove these screws from the focusing ring but be sure note their original orientation first by scratching a mark first so that you will have a reference point to come back to because this is a precision adjustment point. These hold down the focusing ring when tightened but you can shift the focusing ring 1mm to 2mm on either side and it let’s you adjust your infinity focusing. You will have to calibrate the infinity focus of this lens once you get it back after overhauling it." I tried adjusting these screws to either side of the slot through which they pass, then tightening them enough to hold position. No change except that the infinity mark no longer aligns with the lens stop.