wogears

When they draw a line in painting, I'll draw one in photography. Wait. I can't really draw a line with a camera; I'll have to use software, except I draw the line at something like that. :)

Not on Epsons: The V700/800 series have two lenses and two points of focus. With (say) the 35mm or 120 holders, the focus point will be approx. 2.5mm ABOVE the copy glass. With 8x10 (film with area guide setting) focus will be ON the copy glass. When scanning MF or LF on the glass, you MUST manually select the "Area Guide" setting.

I usually love LensCulture, but these images left me wondering. Their Portrait gallery, however, is excellent, IMO.

Got it!

Who be Janis?

Nikon F3, Samyang 135 f2, UltraMax 400

One of the few times I agree with rodeo. :) What have you used for previous shoots? What will you be shooting this time?

Here's a good sign. [LINK]

I believe we are not allowed to post eBay links here, but ultrafineonline, a very reputable long-standing dealer has 50 rolls fresh-dated C200 24 exp for USD 110 incl. shipping. I have nothing to do with this dealer, except I bought stuff from them in the past.

A lot of the Chinese offers are scams. Check feedback, etc. very carefully.

The glasses could be the problem.

"Microcontrast" is one of the unicorns of photography. It does not exist. Take this cum grano salis because I don't really believe in "bokeh" either (it's really blur).

That. as I understand it, depends on the incident angle needed to optimise sensor response.

A hideous alien life form, out to destroy the earth. F3, Samyang 85mm f1.4, Provia 100F

Yeah, sometimes things seem like dpreview wherever I go, but I hesitate to complain. I complain about other stuff, mind, but the gear thing? Not too much on this site.

Mine is the Adaptall 2 as well. I also have a mount for my OM-1 and OM-2.

Nikon F3 HP, Tamron 90mm f2.5, Provia 100

No reverse exposure needed. The problem is the cost of professional processing, but if the home development is going to be inferior, then it's not worth the savings. I may give Dwayne's a try, but I need to have a bunch of rolls in order to get a reasonable per-roll price.

Hello! Has anybody used this? It looks almost too easy to do, with temperatures around 85* F. Mixing also looks simple, with plain hot water (or distilled). Thanks, Les

After a long E-6 drought, I'm happy to have it back.

And here is what I believe to be a Kodak Autographic, from a slightly later episode of the same series.

I did an exciting series of posts on the FB "Traditional Film Photographers" group. Here's one from an episode of "Poirot". You will note that the collapsible Elmar is collapsed in this shot. David Suchet (Poirot) was a Leica collector, and the fault is corrected in later episodes.

"The man" is Arthur Miller.

Just some Points of Information. The Braun FS-120 is a currently manufactured, warranted product from a reputable company. It costs about the same as a used Nikon LS-9000. I have a Polaroid SprintScan 120, and used Nikon scanners for many years. The Pola is every bit as good as the Nikons, although it doesn't have an IR channel. As far as wet vs. dry darkroom is concerned, I find that a good scan from a chrome or neg retains the color values and relationships of the original. To me, the "only a wet darkroom" school is simply a case of purism. If, however, you prefer the "analog" process, I won't say anything to dissuade you. Both can produce gorgeous results.

1960s Ektachrome (E-4) was horrible in the long-term preservation aspects. The last years of E-6 films (Kodak and Fuji) had superior longevity to Kodachrome. I have many Ektachromes and Provias from the 1990s that are unchanged. Twelve Pins, Clifden, Ireland 1998 (Very recent scan)