<p> Paper negatives and as for Canada I can get you in touch with some folks there that know where to get chemicals. Tin types though would be my choice.</p>
<p> I started doing it myself and found that one stop has very little color shift and 2 it needs adjustment more than normal. Now if I gained anything I think the old adage does not apply "You can't recover what was never recorded." does not apply The extra contrast is enough to cover that and the grain increase is much better than trying to compensate in printing or Photoshop. Not all C-41 films are equal and how those negatives are scanned/printed or post processed is where you get a little extra. Slide films used to be push processed all the time even Kodachrome. I believe that most Modern C-41 films though having great latitude can get an extra boost at times. I have seen some EKTAR 100 pushed 1-2 stops that made me go WOW!.</p>
<p> I put "C-41 film push labs" into Google and found a bunch that push and pull at one$ per stop. Now the question is if these labs are still in business.</p>
<p>Well that formula does sound like a reversal bleach solution in part but in 1936 Kodak was also working on Kodacolor negative film but I believe it was a 2 filter not 3 type film. 1935 Kodachrome was introduced. </p>
<p>By looking at the photos I found on the internet it looks just like a simple plastic ratchet reel like the Jobo or Paterson. In the dark you get the film started into those little tabs and then ratchet it back and forth and it takes the film up on the reel.</p>
<p>Walmart sends out to Dwayne's but they only pick up and deliver 2 times a week. C-41 gets returned with no negatives even if you request they be returned as they skip stabilizer to save money and just scan them medium rez. As for E6 they do return them is dusty boxes. and what we used to call substandard mounts. When you send it directly to them you seem to get better mounts and boxes but it may just be me. If I took the time to go out and shoot film I expect I can pay a little extra to pay full price to have someone finish the job for me so shipping is not an extra cost it is extra love for my craft.</p>
<p>AGFA used to say 5 ml per 8x10 sheet was the minimum. I have used 3 ml but that may have been pushing the envelope. 1 36 exposure roll of 35mm, 1 roll of 120 and 1 sheet of 8x10 have pretty close to the same surface area.</p>
<p>I hope that the Cable release did not have a long throw and bend anything. Some of those older cameras did not take much to trip the shutter and pushing things too deeply could bent the actuator arm. On a good note it is more likely hung up film and to fix that you must rewind the film and as stated above play with the little sprocket advancing reel.</p>
<p>Price is reasonable. I would like to see it in 120 rolls. No I have not tried it but I bet you could do a search on Flickr and find some examples. I have heard and seen both good and bad from the monobath. Monobath formulas are tailored for one film and all the bad examples I have seen were with higher speed films. I believe what they mean by no darkroom is you can load the film in a dark bag into a daylight tank.</p>