larrydressler

On a good note After all these years It is being remade by ADOX.

<p>I have used Diafine at E.I. 3-12 with it and others. It gives you continuous tones in that range.<br> Don't use an acid stop. Use 3 water rinses and then the fixer. This will prevent pinholes in the thin emulsion.</p>

<p>BTW TMAX developer is not just for T-grain film. It can be used with any B&W film. It just got it's name because it came out around the same time as the then new Kodak T films.<br> Now back to the original Question. I too found an unopened bottle in the back of a cabinet and it was over 10 years old. It worked fine. But as said try it on a test roll first. </p>

<p>Contact these folks. They do a great job.<br> https://thedarkroom.com/</p>

<p>Yes I use Dektol 1-1 or Rodinal 1-10 or 5 minutes. at 20c. </p>

<p>I think I see your problem. 70F is too low, I always use Diafine at 72-80F.</p>

<p>You sure can.</p>

<p>I just started to modify and use 110 cartridges It was the analog idea for DX I think. and Kodak had those little things in a few flavors including Kodachrome 64. as I shot 110 slides. I do dink that in the latter days of 126 that it did not matter much as most who were still using them were using simple cameras. Cut the tabs in off or leave on. With the Great SLR 126 cameras you adjusted the meter with a knob not the taps. In the latter days. I think it did not matter who or what film was in or what tabs as no one cared. Last 126 film and the cartage was made in Italy same films were sold 200 and 400 I have one of each and same tabs.</p>

<p>95% sure you have Fat Roll syndrome as said. The light is leaking in from the edges. The other 5% says it could be a leaky back.</p>

<p>Rapid fixer will help get rid of it faster.</p>

<p>I have not place blame on anyone but the SPAMMER. I am watching and I have turned off notifications. It seems to have improved. I do know that a rogue spammer group can cause a bunch of trouble and it is just part of the problems of modern life.</p> <p> Good job doing what you are doing Photo.net folks.</p> <p>Larry D.</p>

<p> I have to leave because I get too much SPAM from here. I am sorry but I won't be back until it gets fixed. I have marked the place as Spam.</p>

<p>Well for it to be white in the print/scan it would be dark on the negative. How old is your fixer? You may want to try and clean up the fixer and jug or just mix new and use a new container.</p>

<p>Not that odd. I read once about Kodak doing this as an experiment Also some about using a silver or gold wash. Not sure if I can add more other than it was not a short process.</p>

<p>Yep. I once got a loader with 1/2 a roll of Kodak Technical Pan in it. In fact I just rolled up the last bit a few weeks ago. It was fine and maybe 30 years old.</p>

<p>Not enough cleaning of bottles.</p>

<p>I was told that you should try to shoot it at 160 and normal process. But never try to pull it. Shoot it at full and 1/2 with the first roll and decide. </p>

<p>In what stage do you want to pull it? Developer #1 or developer#2? It is some old Military Ektachrome from what I gather talking to the folks who rolled it up and it is of unknown age. Color's will shift but since it is an unpredictable film due to what it really is and the age along with how it was stored. We really can't say but in my experience Ektachrome went off to the warmer side with a push and bluer with a pull. Do you have any examples of how the color and the grain are with what you have? Can you tell us how you are scanning it and also have you tried projecting it?</p> <p> Thanks if you come back and answer my questions. Remember that the more we understand the better we can guess. :-)</p>

<p>Keep it frozen then use it. Let it thaw for a few hours at room temp then load it in your camera. Use it as normal then process ASAP. All will be fine.</p>

<p>I prefer Lloyd's type loaders as they have the lest film wastage and fewer parts to break. As for the felt light traps I clean them between rolls with sticky tape and ever few years change out the felt. I got a sheet of self adhesive felt at a hobby shop 4 years ago and I still have more than enough.<br> As for canisters I use the ones I got from a one hour lab that they were going to throw out. I just tape the film to the little tab that sticks out and I use them once. I also have metal and plastic ones and The metal ones sometimes get light leaks. I just toss them at that point. As with the loader tape will remove most grime from the felt on your cassettes.</p>

<p>All I know is I have 2 rolls in the fixer now and 5 more B&W to go then I hit the pile of C-41.</p>

<p> You can try to refix it but then that is cleanable. with Photoshop.</p>

<p> Alkaline in the water stained and semi developed that. you can not wash it out. Always develop dry.</p>

<p>Not to mention it will leave you a nice clear strip of film. The bleach will remove everything.</p>

<p> perceptol is a speed loss developer super fine grain not designed for pushing film. Caffinol may be your better bet if you add some extra Vitamin C, and try 2 hour stand development at room temp of about 20-22c. Other than that I would get a different developer like Xtol or HC-110 or even ID-11/D76.</p>