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larrydressler

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Everything posted by larrydressler

  1. larrydressler
    <p>I know a guy using his K mount lenses on a Canon EOS full frame with an adapter. NO AF but it as AF confirm.</p>
  2. larrydressler
    <p>Vanbar is what my friend suggested.</p>
  3. larrydressler
    <p>I can get you in contact with people there not members here. Send me a PM please. Other than that wait for others to answer.</p>
  4. larrydressler
    <p> I find that processing C-41 and E6 is just as easy as B&W . I use a 2 buck cooler to keep the temperature close enough.</p>
  5. larrydressler
    <p> They do good mpix did even a batch of 8x10 photos for me and it was outstanding.</p>
  6. larrydressler
    <p>Rollei Color kits are now the re-branded AGFA kits. </p>
  7. larrydressler
    <p>Champion Chemical makes all of Kodak branded chemicals now and since the C-41 kit is universal it is a good chance that well they are pretty close to being the real deal.</p>
  8. larrydressler
    <p>Make it simple. Get the kit I use and enjoy.<br> http://filmphotographyproject.com/store/unicolor-c-41-development-kit-1-liter-kit</p>
  9. larrydressler
    <p>For scanning prints it should be no problem. You may just have to adjust your settings a little.</p>
  10. larrydressler
    <p>APUG guys are Much more conservative than me. I have taken it to 1-150 that is what we call Dilution J and 1-200 that is Dilution M. Some even go 1-300 with it but then we are in Stand or semi Stand. Lex Has seen these done and I think he will Approve of what I say. I have the same tank and I use it also for C-41.</p>
  11. larrydressler
    <p>I have used the unofficial Dilution H for years and even farther than that and I am yet to have a fail.<br> Just remember that HC-110 dilutions and times were when first set to mimic the times for other developers and films of the era.</p>
  12. larrydressler
    <p>HC-110 Is more resilient than most think If you are worried use Dilution B but I think you will be fine. </p>
  13. larrydressler
    <p>Depends on how it was stored. and how far outdated. Sounds like a good candidate to Cross process in C-41. I had some frozen that was 10 years out of date and they turned out fine processed in E-6.</p>
  14. larrydressler
    <p>Sell for that sir you need a Hasselblad back. I thought we were talking toy cameras. ;)</p>
  15. larrydressler
    <p>If your problem is solved then OK. But truth is without a negative in hand it is tougher than a girl named Saddle Sally to figure things out. As for your developer and film combination you may as well be using Rodinal as not real good. even Ilford says so. Try Xtol or something like that with HP5+. I think Ilford has DDX.</p>
  16. larrydressler
    <p> Software and how to use it helps. I scan many straight out with auto adjustment to Tiff and then adjust to JPEG. The thing is without seeing the negative we are lost. and you can't really show on here as my monitor and your's are not the same. My son in law recently discovered that when he tried to make a bank of 4 of them.</p> <p> </p>
  17. larrydressler
    <p>No the V700 needs warm up time. I have both a V700 and a V500 and I don't use the V500 much as the V700 is much better but heavy.</p>
  18. larrydressler
    <p> I used a bottle of HC-110 recently that was from the 90s and still good. If the fixer was mixed over a year ago and not used it is toast.</p>
  19. larrydressler
    <p>Hp5+ does not act that way even with cold wash. Peter. Looks more like exposure error and semi saved to me. I only know a little as I have been doing this 40+ years.</p>
  20. larrydressler
    <p>Did you print or scan it yourself. As that looks like over exposure with normal development and trying to compensate with scanning.</p>
  21. larrydressler
    <p>HC-110 is good stuff and last long even opened. As for the fixer.. well if it fails you can always refix with fresh. So order new fixer for standby.</p>
  22. larrydressler
    <p> Yes I was and learned a few things in those days. And yes that shot was very underexposed but saved.. you showed there.. low light photography is not a on shot roll. You have to understand and try. 65 is way to cool for D-76 in my opinion. </p>
  23. larrydressler
    <p>In many dark situations you have very few shadows to worry about and the subject is mostly in the brighter end of the lighting. There are Compensating developers like Acufine and Diafine along with Xtol that is seasoned that will help here but if it was never recorded it can't be seen. </p> <p> I have pushed film many stops in my life some years ago in the 70's that held up in court because they showed the person in the act of a crime or even in the area. Street signs were readable. </p>
  24. larrydressler
    <p>Mathew. Is this close enough?<br> http://www.ultrafineonline.com/loredicablsi.html</p>
  25. larrydressler
    <p>65 degrees is pretty cool for developing. If you used D76 straight the time I use is 9.5 to 10 minutes for 1600 and 14 minutes for 1-1. at 20C or 68F.</p>
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