larrydressler

<p>Freestyle sells a version just like that I never gave a crap about counters. Set it at start then consider 2 your first frame. that will be the last frame. adjust from there. Roll a few and decide. Just take notes. It is not that tough I always quit at 36 if I roll that far.. If I see waste I know to adjust .</p>

<p>It looks the same as a Lloyd's loader. <br> https://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/images/products/media/39335_1_lLoyds_Filmlader_Anleitung.pdf</p>

<p>I have been using Vision films for a time. I remove the remjet myself. They are wonderful films even the 500 and 800 ISO films are some of the finest grained with great colors. The 50D is to die for.<br> LF now that is a stretch.</p>

<p>The development times are way too short even if you are using E.I. 50.</p>

<p>Just my 2 cents worth as I have used it just not in BTZS tubes. Have you tried extending the development or trying 1+1+50? What size film are you using? It may be expiring/exhausting too quickly at the 1+1+100 dilution if you are using larger than 4x5.</p>

<p>50cm is 500mm so yes the lens is about right I too believe this was home built with the back of an old 8x10 that the bellows went bad on. most likely some type of Macro setup.</p>

<p> I own one of a non favorite, I used to work at theater and sometimes they would declare the prints dead and be trashed. The one I have is not a classic but it is from the 70s. Russ Meyer He was a friend of Blazing Saddles I see.<br> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russ_Meyer</p>

<p>Here is the lovely Miss Leslie describing and developing some Polachrome.<br> http://filmphotographyproject.com/video/2013/02/polaroid-35mm-instant-film-comprehensive-course</p>

<p>Gold Max is just a normal C-41 Negative film. </p>

<p> Other than the flare. I see normal Foma grain and dust.</p>

<p> Sigh. Are you looking at starting an Old machine back up? And if you have the Developer is it old? CD3 and CD4 last short life once mixed. unless replenished as said. </p>

<p> And not importable to the U.S.A. If I could mix these kits here I could sell them here.</p>

<p>I would give it 15 seconds extra.</p>

<p>Let me give it a try. What is the worst that can happen?</p>

<p>Send it to me I do it in a manual tank. I will only charge shipping. I do C-41 and if you want I will try to push it a little.</p>

<p>C-41 cross processing will give it more speed and saturation as it has most likely lost both. Since the colors are not true to began with you can have more fun and workable image if you process it in C-41.</p>

<p>Pardon my Error. The OP Mentioned E6 so I thought it was the Ektachrome version.</p>

<p>I would go with C-41.</p>

<p>Impossible? Bleach for B&W has been around since the 1900s. <br> The Kodak publictaion for labs processing B/W reversal can be found here.<br /><a title="External link" href="http://www.kodak.com/US/plugins/acrobat/en/motion/support/processing/H-661.pdf" rel="nofollow external">http://www.kodak.com...ssing/H-661.pdf</a><br />Try as I may I could not find anywhere on their website that gives the current formulae for B/W Reversal Processing. The current process uses permanganate bleach. The original formula:<br /><br />Kodak R21a Bleach Bath<br /><br />Water 750ml<br />Potassium Dichromate 50g<br />Sulphuric acid (conc) 50ml<br />Water to 1 litre</p>

<p>Always use a tray 1-2 sizes larger than the film. With prints it does not matter that much. Chemicals are cheap. Film is not. and that is adding your time.</p>

<p>One way I used to cure this was pre-soak in Distilled water and not overload the tank. I added 5% more time to development. With 8x10 I never did more than 2 at a time.</p>

<p>You do know that the Fuji process is total different from Polaroid and the old Kodak rip off they payed millions for. </p>

<p>I have never heard of doing this with Instax but by chance have you tried fixer? or even Blix?</p>

<p>Looks like classic Fat roll. Mostly this happens when the camera does not roll it tight on the take up spool, I have a TLR that I added a small block of foam to a Yashica on the take up side that puts more tension on the spool.</p>

<p>Thank you Bill. I based my observation on identical development times and I tested both of them in Xtol, Acufine and Diafine. I too could see no difference.</p>