thirteenthumbs

<p>Sounds like you processed C41 film, if so then you can wash the film to remove the dust <strong>but</strong> you must run it through the stabilizer again. For B&W silver base film just wash and rinse in a wetting agent. Any type of film hang and let air dry. Toss the squeegee, it may not have caused problems this time but its trouble waiting to happen. <br> There are several tricks to lessen or eliminate dust on drying film. Make a tent from trash bags that goes over the top of the film drying line. Use screw eyes and a piece of 1x8 or 1x10 board, position a screw eye close to each end at the center line of the board then tie a strong cord between the screw eyes. Support the board over doors or shelving. Many hang film in the shower and run hot water until the room is steams.</p>

<p>I use Microdear heavyweight microfiber lens cleaning cloths. I recently purchased a Lee cloth that appears to be identical to the Microdear.<br> http://www.adorama.com/CPCML.html<br> Every time I visit Adorama their selection of cloths have changed so no Lee Optics cloths are listed.<br> As for cleaning the cloths I toss them in the wash with a regular load of cotton or permanent press clothes using regular laundry detergent but <strong>NO fabric softener, </strong> then hang to air dry. They can be washed by hand in warm water and it is important to remove any trace of detergent. <br> It pays to wash the cloth often. Detergent helps to remove oils picked up by the cloth.</p> <p>When cleaning lens I use a fresh section of the cloth for each lens surface. The only solvent is my breath.</p>

<p>Although the service manual in this link http://benoit.suaudeau.perso.neuf.fr/manuels_rep/obturateurs/Compur-shutter-repair-manual.html is for newer shutters than yours the differences are not that great. I had a vintage Compur Rapid that I found the shutter blades, controller, and aperture ( bottom side of the main plate) matched one shutter with the top side of the main plate matching another. Using the diagrams of both and their servicing instructions, which assume you know how to do servicing and only need the special adjustments, and the lubrication guide, I put the shutter back into tolerance at all speeds. </p>

<p>Looking up the Ikonta A 531 several listings show a Compur shutter with Camerapedia showing a Compur, Compur Rapid, or Synchro Compur shutter. The internal view of the Moskva5 shutter is identical to a Compur shutter of the era.</p> <p><br /> The Compur shutters use a spiral torsion spring, mainspring, for delay timing. With the delay escapement assembly out of the shutter pressing the operating lever at the right will cause the retard sector to disengage from the gearing releasing the mainspring. The tension has to be reset and tested. When adjusting the escapement the position of the left, double screw, end is positioned for the 1 second time, the right end is positioned for the 1/25 second time. If the mainspring has been reset 1 tooth turn on the gearing toward increase in tension or lowering the tension when meshing the retard pallet will determine if the escapement will position so that both speeds are correct. Some Compur shutters have a small lever at the right that is used to adjust the fast speeds.</p> <p><br /> Which shutter does your camera have?</p>

<p>The area you have marked in yellow is the film supply side and it is normal to have a gap between the supply roller and the pressure plate.<br> I agree with C Watson. Check the hinge carefully with the insert removed. The light leak may be due to a worn hinge pin or loose hinge mounting rivets.</p>

<p>In CS5.1 Epson Twain is only available via the import function in the 32 bit version. Other scanning software may only be available in the 32 bit version also. Adobe help for CS6 should cover the differences between the 64 and 32 bit versions and if you don't use the functions in the 32 bit version delete it.</p>

<p>The short answer is the shutter needs a CLA.<br> Parts are sticking due to dried out lubricants and dust accumulation. The drier the lubrication the more the parts wear. The more the parts wear the more micro fine metal debris build up in the dried lubrication and dust build up eventually resulting in a non repairable shutter failure.</p> <p> </p>

<p>First, what country are you in? <br> <br />1. D76 can be reused in stock solution but you have to keep track of how much film you have processed in it and extend your developing time according to the information in Kodak tech pub J-78, http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j78/j78.pdf , or you can use it one shot 1:1 which is 1 part developer to 1 part water. The part depends on the size of your developing tank.<br> 2. Any film fixer will work. Many fixers can be mixed for film or paper. Rapid fixer is best for T grain films, comes in a concentrate and is easy to mix. If you are going to use Tri X only then standard powdered fixer such as Kodak Fixer http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27603-REG/Kodak_1971746_Fixer_for_Black.html will be fine.<br> 3. A stop bath stops development immediately. It is necessary for paper development. In film development a water rinse only dilutes the residual developer in the film. Developer exhausts fastest in the highlights and slowest in the shadows. Over developed highlights are difficult to scan or print. A slight amount of extra development in the shadows helps improve shadow detail. If you have your temperatures close to each other and time your development correctly you will not be able to tell the difference between a roll that a stop bath was used on and one a water bath was used on. Developer weakens the fixer over time so either the stop bath or a water bath should be used but it can be skipped. I use 3 fill and dump water rinses between developer and fixing with single 120 reel tanks.<br> 4. Emulsion is the light sensitive coating on film and paper.<br> 5. A gallon bottle set in a pan or sink of water 10°F to 15°F warmer than the contents of the bottle that covers 1/3 to 1/2 of the bottle will warm the contents of the bottle 2°F to 5°F in 15 to 20 minutes or less. Same is true with a pan of colder water, it will cool the contents of the bottle. <br> 8. Wash all processing equipment in warm, mildly soapy water then rinse in clean water. A little dish detergent works fine. I use 1/8 to 1/4 ounce of Dawn.</p> <p>Being consistent is the most important thing you can do to ensure good results. Establish a good procedure and stick to it.</p>

<p>The front cell should unscrew from the shutter or barrel. Lens tend to get slightly fused after many years. Once the front cell comes off then the rear element of the front pair may unscrew from the barrel. I use a pair or rubber strap wrenches to grip lens barrels with when they are stuck. Rubber jar opening aids are reported to work well also.</p>

<p>The sides of the mount have been cut off.</p> <p>According to A Lens Collectors Vade Mecum the f6.3 tessar was introduced in 1902.<br> The serial numbers listed in the Vade suggest this copy is from 1906 or 1907 as s/n 91xxx is from 1908.</p> <p>http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/zeiss_4.html shows the focusing mount to be for a stand camera and states the f6.3 Tessar was introduced in December 1902.<br> The catalog has some basic information on the lens also.</p> <p>I have no idea what the make of camera is.</p>

<p>Reboot with the the drive attached and running.</p>

<p>What type of fixer?<br> Sodium thiosulfate also called Hypo or ammonium thiosulfate commonly called rapid fixer.<br> If you are using rapid fixer did you use the correct dilution of 1:3 or 1:4, depending on manufacturer, for film?<br> You can refix the films for additional time up to 30 minutes without any ill effects on the images. Fix times in excess of 30 minutes at 68°F may bleach the film.</p> <p>The standard test for fixing is to submerge a strip of the same type film as the one to be processed in a container of the fixer starting a timer as the film is put into the fixer and timing until the film becomes clear. Correct fix time is double this time.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Put the installation disk in your desktop's cd/dvd drive and connect a flash drive of sufficient size to a powered usb port and copy all the files on the CD to the flash drive. When the copy completes connect the flash drive to the powered usb port on the laptop. Navigate to the flash drive and click on the setup.exe file in the Adobe 5.5 folder.<br> I just successfully tested this procedure with a Win8.1 Dell and CS5.1.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Is the reason you've done little photo editing since to do with the monitor quality?</p> </blockquote> <p>NO. Economic, cannot afford an Epson 3880. The 2200 is good, but...</p> <p>P.S.<br> You will need good monitor calibration with any LED monitor that does not have it built in.<br> Spyder Express 4 is marginal but you can get by with it.</p>

<p>http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/sna.aspx?c=us&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs&~topic=ultrasharp_monitor<br> U2412M is the current model. 9 months ago they had a U2312M which is what I got through Amazon.<br> I switched from Sony flat screen monitor(s). I've done little photo editing since purchasing it, looks as good as the Sony in other respects.</p>

<p>Your photos posted with this thread, top left, is a classic example of bad light seals and severe light leak. Photos, 2, 3, and 4 are more of a single point light leak but still fairly extreme. Photo 5 is a slight light leak.<br> Camera position with reference to the light source, in this case the sun, will determine the severity of the "fogging".<br> Chemical fogging will occur from the inside edge of the sprocket holes and flare across the image slightly and the flares will be more evenly spaced across the frame consistent with the distance between sprocket holes. There is no consistent pattern to the fogging in your photos and the streaks remain fairly consistent in width from top to bottom of the photo.</p>

<p>Do you have the negatives?<br> No- no way to tell.<br> Yes-do the streaks continue outside the image area to the sprocket holes and/or the edge of the film?<br> Yes- light leak in the camera, most likely the back light seals.<br> No - likely processing.</p>

<p>Looking at the B&W film developers on Freestyle's site they have Adox Adonal Agfa Rodinal http://www.freestylephoto.biz/12054-Adox-Adonal-Agfa-Rodinal-Formula-Film-Developer-500ml<br> which states it is an exact copy of Agfa Rodinal.<br> Compard RO9, http://www.freestylephoto.biz/9724-Compard-R09-One-Shot-Agfa-Rodinal-Formula-Film-Developer-120ml , claims to be an exact copy of Agfa Rodinal but says its only good for 6 months once opened if the bottle is kept tightly caped.<br> Foma Fomadon RO9 http://www.freestylephoto.biz/431250-Foma-Fomadon-R09-Film-Developer-250ml-Agfa-Rodinal-Equivalent<br> says its similar to Agfa Rodinal.</p> <p>All claim to be fine grain developers but I never liked the grain I got with Agfa Rodinal.</p> <p>When Agfa Photo, http://agfaphoto.com/appc/index.php , established itself from Agfa Gevaert Lupus Media Products, http://www1.lupus-imaging-media.com/en , were supplying Agfa films which were the remaining master rolls from before the breakup then started carrying the new version of the films being manufactured by licensed companies. APX 400 is the only B&W film currently listed and it is only available in 135-36 rolls. I lost interest in Agfa products when they indicated they were not planning to reintroduce APX 100 and APX 400 in either 120 or 4x5 formats.</p> <p>Agfa Photo site no longer lists any Agfa films.<br> I still have a roll of APX 25 in 120 format waiting for that special subject.</p>

<p>1. Open the MDC in two tabs in your browser or two browser windows.<br> In one tab/window select Arista Premium and all developers; in the other tab/window select TriX 400 and all developers. Scroll the Arista down to 400 speed then compare the same developer, dilution, exposed speed, and notes to the same with TriX. If they were the same film then the times would be the same for both films in any developer, <strong>they are not.</strong> Some Exposure Index and developer dilutions are the same but many common developer/EI are 10% or more different. Many may find them similar enough in their application to be the same and that is fine for them and you are welcome to join them, I don't/won't. <br> 2. Dilutions are stated in parts of the chemical to the parts of the dilution medium throughout all industries that use ratios. Divide the volume desired by the sum of the two to find the amount of 1 part of either.<br> Reversing the parts in your communications will confuse others. Follow the industry standard for best communications.<br> 3. You've started to show some rational interpolation thinking that one must use to determine a starting point or the next test time so that one does not waste a lot of time and materials chasing guesses. <br> 4. Make a next step test time/dilution determination and try it, you may get it right and if not the third one will be closer yet.<br> Some difficult film developer combinations may take 4 or 5 trys to get correct. Changing 2 or more variables per test results in confusion as one cannot tell which variable is responsible for what change.</p>

<p>I did a "google" search for "expression 1680 service manual" and found several links to purchase a pdf copy including this link:<br /> https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/816857-epson-expression-1680-1680pro-scanner-service-manual <br /> that accepts papal. Prices range from $15 to $20.<br /> Most Epsons I've worked on you remove the lid/transparency adapter, remove the screws in the bottom of the slots for the lid, lift up the base from the rear, disconnect the switch cables from the main chassis, and slide the base cover off the front.<br /> Use extreme care removing the ribbon cables for the sensor.<br> Before removing the base cover power the scanner, start a scan then pull the power cord from the scanner or power socket once the scanner has moved off the home position but before it has reached the end of scan. The scan assembly will be movable until it is pushed into the home position where it will lock in place. It is necessary to move the scan assembly off the home position to clean/adjust the sensor.</p>

<blockquote> <p>I was shooting Arista Premium, not Arista Ultra.</p> </blockquote> <p>Going to Freestyle' web site, clicking on the "Photo Know How" tab then on "Film Development Chart" tab and selecting Arista Premium 400 and Agfa Rodinal 1:50 you get 14 minutes at 68°F; selecting Fomadon RO9, the only RO9 listed, 1:40 you get 11 minutes at 68°F.</p> <p>Now going to The Massive Dev Chart, selecting Arista Premium as the film and RO9 as the developer you are told to use the times for Rodinal. Selecting Rodinal as the developer you get a long chart listing both 100 and 400 speed Arista Premium at various EI. From the list AP ISO 400 @ EI 200 in Rodinal 1:50 is 9 minutes at 68°F.<br> AP ISO 400 at EI 400 in Rodinal 1:50 is 13 minutes at 68°F with a note that says the time is from a previous version of the film and the starting time is the same.<br> Now 9 minutes is 69% of 13 minutes. 80% of 13 minutes is 10.4 minutes, 90% of 13 minutes is 11.7 minutes.<br> 9 minutes is 64% of 14 minutes, the time listed by Freestyle, the supplier. 70% of 14 min. is 9.8 minutes; 80% of 14 min is 11.2 min (11min 12sec).<br> Without seeing your film it will be hard to say how much of an increase in development time with your current developer is needed. A fresh bottle at the same time/temperature will tell you if your current supply has weakened with age.</p> <p>I would base my time on Freestyle's times with a 15% to 25% reduction in time for a 1 stop pull.<br> Many manufacturers if not all do not simply relabel their product for other companies, they alter the product slightly so that it is not the exact same product they sell but is close. I would only use the manufacturers product time if the relabeled product times were not available and then would be aware they would only be close to correct.</p>

<p>Box speeds and box developing times are starting points, not optimal in all situations.<br> Published times for film X will not be valid for film Y even if they look the same when properly processed.<br> Arista EDU Ultra 400 shows Agfa Rodinal 1:25 for 5 1/2 minutes at 68°F. 1:50 would be 11 minutes. <br> Assuming Arista Premium is the same as Arista EDU Ultra your 9 minutes developing time is a 19% reduction in processing time. <br> You will probably find 9 1/2 to 10 1/4 minutes or a 10% to 15% reduction in time, a more correct developing time for your combination.<br> I do not know if RO9 holds up as well as the original Rodinal or not.</p> <p>Experimentation is in order, you've got a starting reference to work from.</p> <p> </p>

<p>There is little information on Ilex lens. The one you have in barrel is most likely an industrial or medical copy of the lens. Many manufactures use different mountings for the different applications, consumer, medical, scientific, and industrial applications.<br> The thread pitch can be determined with a fine graduation ruler or caliper and a calculator. Measure from the inner most thread peak to the outer most thread peak. Count the number of peaks in that distance. Divide the distance of the thread peaks by the number of peaks. This is the threads distance. Divide 1 by the threads per inch (tpi) of published thread pitch to get its thread distance. 1/48=0.02083, 1/49= .020408, 1/50=.02. Due to tolerances of threads a 48tpi might measure 49tpi or 50tpi but not 55tpi or 40tpi.</p>

<p>I have an Epson 1640SU, an Epson 1650, and had a Microtek 8700 pro that all developed streaks that you are experiencing. I cleaned them. All required the surface of the sensor, both sides of the lens which is fixed in a block, all the mirrors, and the under side of the bed glass to be cleaned to be streak free again. The Epsons are by far the worst to realign the sensor on. It is a real pain to get all surfaces free of any contaminates and keep dust free.</p> <p>I sold the Microtek and the two Epsons are in the retired pile. The V500 is a stop gap measure to check test negatives to verify my camera repairs as its a better densitometer than my eyes.</p>

<p>Expression 1680 max optical resolution 1600<br> V600 max optical resolution 6400<br> V700 max optical resolution 4800/6400<br> Expression 1680 Dmax 3.6<br> V600 dmax 3.4<br> V700 dmax 4.0<br> Expression 1680 light source Xeon gas cold cathode fluorescent lamp<br> V600 light source LED<br> V700 light source White cold cathode fluorescent lamp<br> Expression 1680 scan area 8.5" x 11.7"<br> V600 scan area, transparency 2.7" x 9.5", document 8.5" x 11.7"<br> V700 scan area 8.5" x 11.7"<br> All 3 model have 48 bit color, 16 bit grayscale bit depth.</p> <p>These are the key areas that I look at. The LED light source is slightly better than the White cold cathode fluorescent light source. I have not used a Xeon gas fluorescent lamp scanner but the LED light source is likely to be better. The V600 having a .2 lower dmax says its a touch weaker, you may notice the difference in the scans depending on how critical you are. The higher optical resolution of the V600 and V700 will show finer detail than the Expression 1680. The transparency scan area is only of a concern if you plan to scan larger negatives.<br> The V600 and V700 will run on current operating systems without 3rd party software.</p> <p>I am not concerned with 3rd party test that claim the true optical resolution of brand Y scanner is X as the manufacturers stated optical limit is a reference point for comparison and a limit for the scan setting that does not use software interpolation. </p> <p>I previously had a Microtek 8700 Pro, I currently have a Epson V500. The V500 will scan 6cm x 12cm where the V600 will scan 6cm x 22cm but are otherwise the same.<br> I would consider the V700 if it had an LED light source. If the Microtek M2 is still available in a year or two or has been updated it will most likely win out over Epson unless I'm able to go to drum scanner.</p> <p>The V700 will probably outlast a V600 under high volume daily use.</p>