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david_carroll4

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  1. I went with a theme - "Pro" SLRs from the 60s-80s. I loosely defined "Pro" as having an interchangeable finder. My timing was fortuitous - in the mid-'00s, people were offloading their film outfits in favor of digital, so I could pick up good stuff cheap locally on Craigslist, clean it up as necessary and sell the individual items nationally and internationally on eBay, keeping some of the "good stuff" for myself. I ended up 4 Fs, 2 F2s, an F3HP/MD4 and an F4S, FE, Nikonos V, Canon F-1 (first model), Minolta XK, Contax 137MA. The two I never acquired were a New F-1 and an XK Motor (holy grail, IMO). I already had an OM1 and OM4T as my "personal cameras. One each of the F and F2 had less common non-metering heads, and the F3 and F4 each had a full set of heads. I also acquired a stack of Nikkor, FD and Rokkor primes (and upped my Zuiko game), so I could use a standard 24/28, 35, 50, 85/105 and 180/200 kit with each SLR. The fun part for me was researching each item so I could write the most informative blurb for eBay listings, and cleaning up the cameras (replacing seals, mirror bumpers etc) so each worked well. I more than broke even $-wise, not even counting the hardware I acquired along the way. It was a lot of fun while I did it, although after a number of years, I offloaded the lot to finance an OM-D outfit. Although I had a darkroom, the time and expense of film was just becoming unsustainable and all these beautiful beasts just weren't getting used. To this day, I still regret selling the F3HP and OM4T outfits, but much as I'd love to have them, I can't see myself ever shooting film again
  2. Back when I collected SLRs, the XK/XM was a bit of a holy grail, second only to the XK/XM Motor. I used to scan the local Craigslists for people jettisoning their old film outfits in favor of digital, and then part out the individual items on eBay, keeping some item for myself. One day there was a CL ad for a "Minolta SLR" with a lousy pic of what looked like an XK (the prism was unmistakable) for $150. I nearly broke my ass getting to the seller's place. Almost perfect condition, except missing the plastic advance lever tip. I replaced it with the tip from and XD9 or XG9 (can't recall which) which was a perfect fit. I think I replaced the rear seals and the mirror bumper (this was pretty much routine for cameras if this vintage). It was possibly the centerpiece of my pro SLR collection, and the only example I ever saw in the flesh. The body was reminiscent of an old SRT on steroids - quite the beast.
  3. Years ago (1992), I bought a black OM-4Ti new - I recovered it with GripTac from CameraLeathers - a rubberized gravel-textured covering that provided no-slip grip wet or dry, and I added a Lumi-Brite focusing screen scavenged from an OM-G (IIRC) which increased viewfinder brightness by 2/3 stop*. Added a Grip 1. Combined with a good collection of Zuiko primes to choose from (24/2.8, 28/2.8, 35/2.0, 50/1.4, 50/3.5 macro, 85/2.0 100/2.8, 180/2.8, 200/4.0), a couple of Zooms (the 65-200/4 and the wonderfully solid 35-70/3.6), and arguably the best metering system ever put into an MF 35mm SLR, it was an almost perfect lightweight setup. In a fit of madness, I sold off most of my camera collection to finance an OM-D setup. Man, do I regret that 😟 *I gave my OM-1N (bought used in 1986) the same treatment - since the OM1 meters through the focusing screen, I had to dial down the ASA 2/3 stop (eg ASA64 with ASA100 film) to compensate for the brighter screen. The mirror-box metering of the OM4 didn't require this tweak
  4. If you're set on shooting film and wear glasses, the F3HP is without compare, IMO. But film.......hard to justify the expense, the hassle and limitations in terms of number of shots available, ISO flexibility. The only plus to film, IMO, is the cameras - they are so nice to use (my long-gone F3HP remains my favorite SLR ever), but if the goal is to capture pics, it's hard to beat digital. In your shoes, I would track down a decent used dSLR (you mentioned a D700?) and bring it and the 35-105. Travel light and balance taking pics with enjoying the vacation.
  5. <p>Hey Jon - they're yours. PM me an address and I'll ship them. DC</p>
  6. <p>Nikon MC-10 10 ft cable release. Has a screw-on 3-pin connector. I used it with an MD-4 motor drive, but I imagine it would work with any Nikon drive or possibly even with cameras with built-in winding. First person to respond here gets it. I'll pick up shipping within the Contiguous 48. Happy Thanksgiving!</p>
  7. <p>Free to first person to respond:<br> 7 x 36 exp rolls (35mm) Ilford XP2 Super 400 C41-process B/W film. They expired 10/2015, and have been stored at room temp, so no guarantees. Stake your claim here, then PM me with an address. I'll pick up the shipping in the Contiguous 48. Happy Thanksgiving!</p>
  8. <p>I'm pretty sure they'll fit - however, since the OM-10 doesn't have a replaceable screen, you'll have to semi-dismantle the OM-10 to recover the screen. Also, the screen won't have the small tab needed for subsequent removal/installation. I installed screens from OM-PCs into my OM-1 and OM-4T - these were Lumi-Brite screens, equivalent to the rare and often fiendishly expensive 2-13 screens that came with later OM-3s, and which gave a 2/3 stop brighter viewfinder than the standard screen. Based on my experience, I would say that all OMs have the same sized screens.</p>
  9. <p>As others have said, it's often cheaper to buy plain finders when attached to a camera body than alone. A few years ago I found a pair of Nikons (F and F2) each with a plain finder on Craigslist for $115 each. They were being sold by a professional photographer who was clearing out his film gear, and was selling them as obsolete cameras rather than as collectors items. Look for someone selling a camera that happens to have a plain finder, rather then someone selling a finder as a big ticket collectors item.</p>
  10. <p>I finally sold off my next-to-last film outfit (F3HP with 4 Nikkor primes) a couple of weeks ago, because, much as I loved the camera, I just wasn't using it. The cash was nice, but the sense of relief at not having this splendid device sitting there gathering dust was almost as good. I have a Nikonos with a couple of lenses that I might keep for the beach, but, to be honest, I could just as easily sell it and buy an inexpensive waterproof digital.</p>
  11. The F2 is indeed a great camera, but it's not exactly an ideal tool for street photography. First, it's large and heavy, especially with a metering head. Second, it's noisy - you'll hear that mechanical shutter going off a mile away. Third, while manual exposure isn't a major impediment, fast on-the-fly shooting will benefit from decent auto exposure, so that's one less thing to be concerned about when taking the shot. An FE2 would be a better option IMO - smaller, lighter, quieter, auto/manual, with almost the same functionality as the F2 - newer too. While not strictly a "pro" SLR, it is superbly built. Another option (my sentimental favorite) is the F3 - not small/light, but still smaller/lighter than the F2, quieter, auto/manual. Built like a brick outhouse. If you wear glasses, the F3HP viewfinder is beyond compare. The battery dependence issue is way overblown IMO. If it's a big deal, just routinely replace the batteries once a year, or carry a spare set taped to the strap. You have to be particularly careless to be stranded with flat batteries.
  12. <p>The exposure compensation on the OM-2 just alters the mechanical ISO selection while giving you some visual indication that the ISO has been altered from the original setting (to remind you to reset it back to the set ISO when you're done compensating). So, for example, if the ISO is set to 100, and you dial in a -2 stop compensation, you're effectively turning the ISO dial to 400. If your ISO is set to 1600 and you dialed in a -2 stop compensation, you would be effectively dialing the ISO to 6400. The thing is, the OM-2 ISO dial is physically limited to 12-1600. There is no higher setting. So, if you're at ISO 1600, there's nowhere else to go - the dial cannot turn any higher. Similarly, if you set the ISO to 800, you will only be able to set a -1 stop compensation. Or, as BeBu alludes to above, if your ISO is set to 12, you cannot dial in a positive compensation, as the ISO dial is already maxed in that direction. Hope this makes sense.</p>
  13. <p>OM TTL cables should be pretty cheap on The Auction Site, as so few people use them. You might even try the random parts bin at your local photo shop, if they still sell film equipment. In my experience with the Bounce Grip, the most expensive accessory is the leather Grip Strap</p>
  14. <p>My initial recommendation would be the F3HP for the metering and viewfinder. However, the electronics are starting to age. Much as I love it, I don't know if I'd like to depend on it as my sole body for weeks on end in the field. A CLA'd F2 would be splendid, but they're weighty and the Photomic heads are a little clunky. I think I'd go with a pair of FM2s - you'd have the versatility of multiple bodies. Also, stuff can happen to even the best and most looked-after cameras, but the odds of <em>both</em> of your FMs crapping out is astronomical. The FM family of SLRs never got the memo that they weren't "pro" cameras, because they have gone everywhere that the pros have.<br> Lastly, whichever direction you go, try to get a Griptac leatherette cover from Cameraleather (NFI - I thnk they're still in business) - it's a textured rubberized coating that will transform how your camera handles in cold or wet conditions. I covered my F3 and OMs with it - excellent and cheap (<$20/camera, IIRC)</p>
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