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What camera(s) are you using this weekend?


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Another wet weekend, just one of a succession in a very wet spring, but if I get a fine spell I'll run a trial film through this Kodak Tourist, circa 1950. I've spend a couple of hours performing a few minor repairs and cleaning and polishing, and gluing the nice leather case back together, and I'm interested to see just how the Anaston 105/4.5 lens performs.

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Soon after I bought my 6x4.5 Kodak Duo Six-20 f4.5 Series II front-cell focusing camera at an online auction, I came across this f3.5 version in an antique shop.

I much prefer the f3.5 version for its slightly faster, unit-focusing lens (easier to mount filters) and it also comes with the Compur-Rapid shutter upgrade.

As an aside, I learned something new about the Compur-Rapid shutter.  According to the owners manual, intermediate speeds are available between 1 and 1/100 sec (except between 1/10 & 1/25).  So, for example, setting the pointer between 1/50 & 1/100 gives a speed of 1/75.  Who knew?

Regardless of variations, these Nagel-built cameras are solid, heavy, substantially sized and, with their leather bellows, hold up well over time.

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I will shoot with my M6 (1994) with a Voigtlander Ultron 28/2.0 (2011) this weekend.

The 28mm frame-lines are a bit difficult to see on the M6, especially when wearing glasses, so I use a Fujifilm 21/28mm add-on finder (probably made by Cosina judging by the design) that makes it easier to do a quick framing, but a little difficult to see the current shutter speed.
Film is HP5+. 

Leica M6 (classic) with Voigtlander Ultron 28/2.0

 

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Niels
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I've put a couple of films through this nice little Balda Mess-Balderett, and on both occasions the film has ended up badly scratched. I've once again made a very close inspection of the interior to see if I can finally determine the cause, and I think I might try a metal cassette instead of the plastic reloadables I usually use. Grasping at straws, perhaps, but it's about the only course of action I can think of.

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@rick_drawbridge  Good luck, Rick.  I've had similar frustrations with "pressure scratches" on a couple of my cameras.  In my case, the emulsion isn't actually scratched but there's a point of excessive pressure that the film gets dragged across that leaves a line on the negatives.  Visual inspection doesn't identify any obvious source of the problem.

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Rick, Gary, I had a similar mystery scratch problem in my Super-Isolette. The cause was finally found as contact of some part in the back of the lens assembly or the bellows with film, when the bellows were closed. Winding only when the bellows were open solved the issue.
 It could be barely seen with bellows closed and a metal ruler over the film gate, but it was there and the contact fitted the scratch position.

It took several rolls and two trips to the tech. The clue was that in some cases the scratch was not there, with two shots made in rapid succession.

 

 

Edited by Julio Fernandez
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Thanks Gary and Julio. Yes, I'd usually wind on immediately after making an exposure with the camera still open, so scratching from the lens board or bellows seems unlikely. The "excessive pressure" situation may have something to do with it, or even excessive tension on the film, which is why I'll try an older metal cassette which does appear to be a slightly looser fit in the film compartment. Of course, one never knows if the scratching occurs during advancing or rewinding the film...

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Lens was just returned from a CLA. The aperture blades were sticking and their movement delayed from years of lack of use. I will shoot some HP5+ this week-end.
A very nice solid camera, although a bit to the heavy side. The sound of the shutter/mirror is especially pleasing for a SLR.

Leica R3 (1976) and Summicron R 50mm/2.0 v.1, 3-CAM (1974)

 

Leica R3 (1976) and Summicron R 50mm/2.0 v.1 3 CAM (1974)

 

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Niels
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Back to basics with one of my favorite cameras, the Goerz Box-Tengor 760, which can fit six 6x11cm images on a roll of 120 film.  Fixed focus, two shutter speeds (1/50 & T), three apertures (f11, f16, & f22), and probably the best $20 I ever spent.

The built-in viewfinders are usable but quite dim so I adapted an auxiliary viewfinder from a discarded Kodak folder and use a magnetic mount so it can be easily repositioned.

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I was disappointed last week to lose an auction for  an Agfa Karat 36 with the esteemed Sologon 50mm f/2 lens, rather a rarity down here in Australasia. I was hoping no one would notice this, but a collector with deeper pockets than mine spotted it and the rest is history. Still, I might try to shoot a film with the slightly lesser but still very good 50/2.8 Solinar lens, using one of the Karats pictured below. The front camera is a Karat 36 and at the rear is a Karat Mark IV.

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Edited by rick_drawbridge
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I was gifted this MD-4 and will use it over the weekend with some HP5+. 
Not a combo that will see much use going forward I suspect - heavy as h*ll and besides; who needs a motordrive with film these days (except for @rick_drawbridge)? 
But a beautiful well balanced piece of engineering never-the-less. Happy to have it in my collection.

Nikon F3, MD-4 and Nikkor 35mm 2.0 AiS:

Nikon F3, MD-4 and Nikkor 35mm 2.0 AiS

 

Edited by NHSN
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Niels
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