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What camera(s) are you using this weekend?


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Finished the roll in the Contax II over the weekend.
Loaded up a Konica C35 for a test to see if the new light seals are working properly. If so, it can go back to its owner.

The owner is also holding a Kodak Suprema and a Summicron Version 1 for me.....I guess that makes the 2 hour trip worthwhile 😉

 

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The 35mm Petri Racer camera seems to have gained something of a cult following, possibly in part because of its good looks. Less well known is its brother, the Petri Auto Rapid 2.8, a very similar camera producing conventional full-frame images using the Agfa Rapid system cassettes. I realised the other day that I've never used this camera, so I've painstakingly loaded a Rapid cassette with Kentmere 100, and if the rain stops I'll venture out.

1338142647_TwoPetriescopy.jpg.ebbb1c2fa580b45fcfbee1fb4d898661.jpg

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On 10/30/2022 at 1:21 PM, bruce_z._li2 said:

Kodak Tourist II with Anaston 105/4.5 lens. Despite its "sin" of using 620 film, this is easily one of my favorite 6x9 folding cameras out there. Excellent optics, solid metal construction, simple and no fuss operations. And you can get one for 10-30 bucks, any day. Photos in the weekly.

998405231_KodakTouristII.thumb.jpg.801a0072465f82bc40242198c751e8f2.jpg

I have this same camera and lens combination. They are indeed good performers with a great lens. My only gripe (not 620 film format) is the lack of focus so you have to either guess a bit or use one of those service range finders, which I have, to get it exact, but it almost unusable since it is is very cloudy inside. I think I may try to take it apart to see if I can clean it. I hope I don't regret doing that!

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On 11/12/2022 at 1:07 PM, bruce_z._li2 said:

I did not really like the ergonomics of Kodak Reflex II TLR, but hopefully the Anastar lens is worth the effort. B&W test roll looks good, now going to do some color during the weekend!

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Yes, it is certainly worth it in my experience. It's a very well made camera and has that super bright viewing screen. Probably brighter than any other TLR at the time. The Anastar lens on the Reflex II is sharp! It could compete with the Rolleiflex TLRs of the era in terms of image quality. 

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1 hour ago, jason_withers said:

Yes, it is certainly worth it in my experience. It's a very well made camera and has that super bright viewing screen. Probably brighter than any other TLR at the time. The Anastar lens on the Reflex II is sharp! It could compete with the Rolleiflex TLRs of the era in terms of image quality. 

I did get some decent color slides out of the Kodak Reflex. But some photos are not sharp, probably due to camera shake. I'm not used to the side-way shutter release which is combined with shutter tensioning.
 

Kodak Reflex II TLR

 

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22 hours ago, bruce_z._li2 said:

I did get some decent color slides out of the Kodak Reflex. But some photos are not sharp, probably due to camera shake. I'm not used to the side-way shutter release which is combined with shutter tensioning.
 

Kodak Reflex II TLR

 

Yeah, I try to bring a tripod if I can when I use the camera, or brace myself well. I too have found that camera shake can be introduced more easily with this type of shutter. Did you respool the 120 film or just trim the ends to fit? I have found that trimming and sanding the plastic flanges of the 120 spool down works in this camera. 

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New to me F80/N80 body with my 24-50mm AF lens. Not a "Classic Manual Film Camera" as the forum title stipulates, but what I will be shooting this weekend never-the-less.

I think this is the only film camera I have ever owned where the instruction manual is required reading - at least if you want to utilise the many customisation options.

As is typical for this model, it first needed a thorough wipe-down with alcohol. The rubberised surface had turned into a disgusting sticky syrup-like substance.

I will shoot some HP5+.

Nikon F80 w AF Nikkor 24-50mm

 

Edited by NHSN
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21 hours ago, jason_withers said:

Yeah, I try to bring a tripod if I can when I use the camera, or brace myself well. I too have found that camera shake can be introduced more easily with this type of shutter. Did you respool the 120 film or just trim the ends to fit? I have found that trimming and sanding the plastic flanges of the 120 spool down works in this camera. 

Unlike most every other Kodak 620 camera, where the tolerances are just too tight, I am able to fit a trimmed 120 spool in the supply side of my Reflex II.  Still need a 620 takeup spool however.

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7 hours ago, gary green said:

Unlike most every other Kodak 620 camera, where the tolerances are just too tight, I am able to fit a trimmed 120 spool in the supply side of my Reflex II.  Still need a 620 takeup spool however.

Thanks Gary and Jason, I will try out the trimmed 120 in the Reflex II. My Reflex II has problem with automatic film advancing, so I have to resort to red window. But it could also be due to the re-rolled 620 (from 120) is not perfectly straight and tight.

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17 minutes ago, bruce_z._li2 said:

Thanks Gary and Jason, I will try out the trimmed 120 in the Reflex II. My Reflex II has problem with automatic film advancing, so I have to resort to red window. But it could also be due to the re-rolled 620 (from 120) is not perfectly straight and tight.

Hi Bruce.  The automatic frame spacing doesn't work for me either.  In fact, this is a common complaint mentioned in online reviews for this camera.  I suspect it never worked reliably.

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21 hours ago, gary green said:

Hi Bruce.  The automatic frame spacing doesn't work for me either.  In fact, this is a common complaint mentioned in online reviews for this camera.  I suspect it never worked reliably.

Hi Gary, good to know that I'm not alone in the frame counter mechanism for Kodak Reflex II. I will continue to use the red window then.

 
 
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14 hours ago, rick_drawbridge said:

I've just put a film through this FSU behemoth, mainly because I hadn't used it for over a year. I'll try to post a few samples on the weekly thread, if there's anything worthwhile. Kiev 88CM with the Volna-3 80/2.8 lens

530077570_Kiev88CMcopy.jpg.7de8701c1f6740701edeaacfa3fda83e.jpg

Hi Rick, will the Kiev 88CM take Ektar 80/2.8 (originally for the Hasselblad 1000F)? And how do you like the 88CM as a camera body for regular use?

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bruce_z._li2 said: "Will the Kiev 88CM take Ektar 80/2.8 (originally for the Hasselblad 1000F)? And how do you like the 88CM as a camera body for regular use?"

I'm not sure about fitting Hasselblad lenses to the Pentacon 6 mount Kiev 88CM, but if you google "hassleblad lenses on kiev 88" you'll find plenty of information, including several threads on this forum.

As for the Kiev 88CM as a user, it's competent enough and actually much more pleasant to use with the WLF rather than the TTL metering prism. In action, it just feels a little less substantial or durable than a Hassy or a Bronica, and I tend to be aware of this and baby the camera along avoiding, undue stresses. But it does what it's designed to do and I've had no problems in my five years or so of ownership. There is a great range of Russian and German lens available in the Pentagon 6 mount, at comparatively reasonable prices.

Edited by rick_drawbridge
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One of Canons bestselling film SLR cameras, the EOS 30/Elan 7E , a favourite of mine. Very fully-featured, it offers eye-controlled focus, with the camera detecting the point in the frame that the eye is focusing on and locking focus there. This ingenious facility seems to split photographers into two camps, love or loathe. I'm definitely with the lovers.

The camera is seen here with the ubiquitous Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS II USM   lens, another old favourite.

994909377_CanonEOS30copy.jpg.d4996ec31535e23a1e69c797465339d4.jpg

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Nikon EM with Nikkor 35mm f/2.8 Ai

Testing this little Nikon EM for a friend over the weekend. (The lens is mine, and film is Foma 200 IE 100)
The camera seems to have a problem turning off, even when changing the lever from Auto to M90. 
I am not sure it is something I can fix  - which is a shame, because it is a very nice compact SLR.

I may try to flush a little alcohol into the Auto/M90/B switch and "massage" it to see if that makes a difference, but my hopes are not high.

 

Nikon EM with 35mm f/2.8 Ai

 

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