Niels - NHSN

As if we didn’t already 😄

HC-110 and D76 are two very different developers to work with. I'd advise to educate yourself on the differences and how they may suit your imagined work-flow. HC-110 is mostly used as a one-shot developer. The concentrate last a long time, even when opened and can be very cost efficient if you are happy the results you get a high dilutions. For example; 1 liter of concentrate allows me to develop 200 rolls of 35mm film at the 1+50 ratio I mentioned above. D76 is much loved, but has limited life after the powder has been mixed with water. Working solution is mostly used for several sessions with time compensation for each batch to account for usage. If used as a one-shot developer, it is rather expensive.

I don't think OP included a link to the photo he is talking about. I am under the impression he is talking about Doug Mills' photograph. Here's a link to the photo allegedly showing the bullet after having hit Trump's ear: https://edition.cnn.com/2024/07/14/politics/video/doug-mills-trump-rally-photo-src-digvid

You may be right, but I think it will depend on what side of history the image will end up predominantly supporting. Both the Iwo Jima and Napalm Girl images supports the winner's narrative - Victory of WWII and victory of the Vietnam war opposition. Had USA lost WWII and won Vietnam, I suspect the Iwo Jima photo would depict an irrelevant event in the grand scheme of things and some more heroic photos of a Vietnam war victory would probably be elevated over a girls burned body. Just some random thoughts of an old cynic.

Perhaps I am in minority here, but I am generally not too impressed with photographs that need to be explained for the viewer to understand what it shows. It wouldn’t be my choice for a single photo to describe the event in a history book at least. The photo is certainly interesting, but mostly from the technical perspective to my eyes. Perhaps great as supporting evidence in the investigation? I feel the photo by Evan Vucci (AP) succeed better in conveying the many layers in the situation and would be my candidate for the history books. However, Vucci’ photo is almost too perfect and if used the way I imagine it will be used in the coming months, it could possibly end up too politically charged to be fit for a nonpartisan history book. Not being American, I probably feel much different about all this the those who are.

That is a sweet camera - beautiful industrial design…in stark contrast to the funky wood laminated Chinon above. @AJG I have had the urge to do some analog movie for a while, first thinking I could do some regular 8mm and develop myself, but sourcing a 16mm developing spiral, splitting and subsequently find a way to scan the footage turned out to be too daunting. I would have no problem finding a cool hand cranked regular 8mm camera, I come across those quite frequently and is part reason for my desire to try out this process again.

My film dev routine is HC110 1+50 or sometimes a Rodinal (equivalent) 1+50 if I wish to have good grain definition (if I use Fomapan for example) These are cheap easy 1 shot developers that last a long time. Stop bath is just water. Two fills of the tank. Fixer is the cheapest serious brand available at the time. Currently it is Adox where I live. I routinely do a two-three min pre-wash only because I once had an issue with Neopan 400 120 film (no longer available). A pre wash solved the problem and I have continued since as I feel it doesn’t harm and helps stabilizing the temperature prior to development. For washing I use Ilford’s minimal water usage instructions. Buy the cheapest wetting agent available- it is safer than trying dishwasher soap’s with unknown additives. Wetting agents lasts forever. 1/3 of the recommend amount is good with the water quality where I live. Other tips: Stick to one quality developer in the beginning. Use only one or two film stocks until you master them. Change only one variable at a time. Have fun.

Already weekend again!? I found out that Super 8 isn’t quite as expensive as I thought* so the old Chinon 671 from 1971 is getting an exercise these past days and over this weekend. I have two cartridges of Kodak Vision3 200T to shoot. It is negative film, so it will need to be scanned to be viewed. I am shooting 24 frames per second to make it prettier to import and combine with a video timeline- this means a standard S8 cartridge last a measly two and a half minutes! * ”Not quite as expensive…” is subjective, of course: The price of one Kodak S8 cartridge with development and professional 4K scanning is around the equivalent of €100 including VAT where I live. I thought it was much more expensive for some reason. That means you can make a 1.5hour movie for only €3600 in film/processing/scanning costs (that is; if you can do it in just one take 😆).

Yeah. That look fine. I hope it was one time occurrence.

The screen frame and locking mechanism is not a part of the camera that normally sees a lot of wear and should require repairs. Does the release pin area look scratched/abused?

It should just click firmly in place when you raise the screen. I have never experienced a FM2 or FE/FE2 screen inadvertently release unless the “tap” was deliberately activated.

M6 with the first C/V Nokton 50/1.5 in LTM. Film is Ilford Ortho 80 expired by a year or so.

….And they will endlessly point out how wrong you are for exaggerating the system’s many potential problems 🙂

Congratulations, you found a typo.

Just a little warning in case somebody is considering buying the LTM version or Type 1 for use on an M body. The "Type L" (aka the LTM version) and "Type 1" in M mount are, aside from the mount, constructed the same. Link to B&H overview of the different types: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1781162-REG/voigtlander_ba379d_28mm_f_2_8_color_skopar.html They share the same idiosyncratic design as Leica used to employ on many of their screw mount lenses pre WWII: Which was very different from what most people are used to these days. If you are already familiar with Leica's Barnack cameras and lenses, you probably know what I mean, but if not, I would warn you if considering one of the above Voigtlander types (L and 1) if it's primary, or only, use will be on an M camera. The possible annoyances are as follows. It has a infinity lock - it locks the focusing ring and makes unscrewing easier, but in general use, it is always seems to be locked at the most inconvenient times when you need to focus quickly. The distance/DOF scales are reversed - the distance scale is fixed, and the distance mark rotates with the focus - this makes it difficult to quickly look at the lens to verify the set distance. I have put a little piece of blue masking at the distance mark to make it easier. If you look at the picture below, you can see the distance mark at 0.7m at the underside of the lens. The aperture ring rotates with the focus. Like with the distance mark, you will have to search for its position. Additionally; setting the aperture will likely move the focus. You will have to learn to set aperture before you focus to use the lens effectively. All in all, nothing new for a seasoned Barnack user, but may come as a unpleasant surprise for an M user - or anyone that buy this lens with the purpose to adapt it to other cameras. If you belong to the latter groups, I will strongly recommend looking at Type II, which unfortunately isn't made of brass, but is both lighter and more conventional designed.