Henricvs

What I like about the FM3a is that the battery doesn’t stop you from using the camera. This is the best part that it got from the FM.

I never thought to even look at the F2 series. I will now.

I just got my FM3a. I think I’ll just put the F3 in my collection cabinet and use the FM3a as my top manual camera.

It may be worth sending it out for repair. Any repair suggestions?

If I get the nerve I may look and see if I can fix it..

I didn’t know that. I did mount a flash, but never took it out on a shoot. I’ve read that some folks have had luck with a motor drive. If I see a cheap one, I may try that.

Would that mine lived.

I broke out my Nikon F3 after a year on the shelf. I was looking forward to using that big ole viewfinder and snapping away. It was not to be, the electronics are gone and all the new batteries and clean contacts in the world, won’t bring her back. She went back on the shelf. I pulled my FE2 and settled for her. After about a week I decided to buy an FM3a from KEH to fill the hole in my F3 heart.

Thank you for the insight. I really appreciate it. Most of the online stuff I found said two years tops. I've got some D powder in the mail. I won't toss this one after 3 years.

I shot a 24 count roll of Fomapan 100 using my new (to me) Leica If. I used my Voigtlander Heliar 15/4.5 and an Orange Nikon filter. Here is where the problem was. I rigged the filter such that I sorta knew I screwed up the entire roll. It was too small and I used an adapter to pressure fit it within the little lens hood. Since I was sure the shots where messed up, I decided to see if my 3 year old Diafine was any good. I made it up in 2018, used it one time and stored it with the air squeezed out. Long story, short, the Diafine was FINE and all my shots have a black circle around the subject, thanks to my dumb filter idea. I tossed the Diafine and ordered some more and some 52mm filters. No sense in pushing my luck.

I second this recommendation. I have even donated to this site as they are very complete and useful.

Thanks!

I was gifted two very clean SRT 101 cameras and assorted lenses. Mechanically, these guys are good to go. The meters aren’t really necessary, but I like to make at least some effort to bring them back to spec. The cameras were a little dusty with dead batteries. I dusted them off and plugged in my 675 hearing aid batteries with brass adapter. One of the meters works when I apply pressure to the power disk, the other nuttin. The battery compartments are clean, but I am guessing there may be some corrosion under the hood. Any suggestions or anything that I should look for before I pop the hood on these little tanks?

I've done it and it works brilliantly. Thank to everyone here for the help. Problems solved.

I just got VMware with Windows 10 running on my Mac. It works like a charm and I will use this solution for the time being. I don't foresee another way to deal with this "old" way of film so I do what I have to do to get what I want. On a side note, this VMware is really good. They have come a long way from when I fist discovered them in my Linux days.

Agreed 100%. I just want the data dang it!

It should, it’s the Mac w/64 that is the issue.

I’ve been looking and not much help.

Nope, will not run.

i like the side OS idea. That may be an easier route. I never had themselves-1 cable.

I looked here and found nuttin on the subject of getting exif data out of my F6. I previously had the META 35 which worked really well up until I had to buy a new laptop. It seems they don't intend to update their software to accommodate the 64 bit architecture. So, I can't find a MV-1 card reader to save my life and if I did, could I even use it? I emailed Meta 35 and asked them if I should just toss the dang connector I bought that is now useless. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I've added EV before and after zone selection. The zone system is just a tool, like a reflector, you use it to help and not to solve all exposure desires.

Just a graphic, doesn’t mean you should do it.