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Henricvs

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Everything posted by Henricvs

  1. You're right, just curious, I do plan on tossing a towel over it while I work.
  2. I am preparing my long awaited darkroom. When we moved to a new home I had a 15'x16' room built with plumbing for a sink. The room is accessed from my utility room so I have a baffle of sorts from the outside light. The room is nice and dark with no need for door or window blocking. As the room is a good size and out of the way, I put my TV/Internet modem in there too. You guessed it, green LED lights. Covering these would not be difficult, but should I? Will such small green lights cause problems with printing?
  3. Yes, the are very easy to use without the meter. These are really nice cameras. They are pricey on Ebay too, very surprised at that.
  4. I have a 675 hearing aid battery with a brass adapter. It wasn't the battery, it was a corroded wire.
  5. I think you are right about older films. I don't use it, but I don't think it harms anything if you do use it.
  6. Well, I fixed it and works like a champ. A word of caution if you plan on doing this yourself. John Seaman's suggestion to add a length of wire to the existing wire is a good one, do that. The other thing you should do is remove the brass nut from the pin that holds the spring contact to the PLASTIC holder and solder the wire to the brass nut. I did not and almost had a disaster! The plastic holder WILL melt. I caught it quick enough to prevent serious damage to the already damaged plastic battery holder. Once you have soldered the wire to the nut and it has cooled, simply bolt it back on secure the battery contact. I used rubber cement to glue the holder back into the camera so I could remove it easily if I had to later.
  7. Oh snap, that is a good suggestion. I'll do just that. I need to find the correct gauge wire.
  8. No, I don't have a printer, but have used Sculpteo with much success. They're in Europe, but I have found they are very responsive and their online store is so easy to use. My battery holder seems to be good enough to use, so I am not going to wait to draw and print one. That said, I am going to take down the measurements and make one if time permits.
  9. You are welcome and thanks for the insight. I would say that the OM-1 issue sounds exactly like mine, because of where the corrosion was located. The corrosion was limited to the solder area and not the spring steel. The wire was soldered onto a brass nut. Also, it appears that this is the second time this repair has been made on my camera. I surmise this because, the black plastic holder has a previous crack that was repaired. Still, I could be wrong and the connection that failed may have been from the factory solder. Either way, it looks like my resign glue job is holding. I will put it back together in 24 hours to be safe. As I said before, I will be putting grease on the solder and post to hopefully prevent future corrosion. Crossing my finger that this fixes it.
  10. I took the base off today and with a little difficulty, removed the battery holder, breaking an edge in the process. The cup looks more like bakelite than plastic. Anyhow, the wire was corroded off as I suspected. I epoxied the battery holder together and in the process found where it had been glue together previously!!! I'm considering printing a new holder or simply buying a used one. Either way, I am going to put a tad bit of grease after my solder. I am waiting for the epoxy to dry.
  11. Yes, they seem to want to disassemble it to the bone. I'm going to give it a go, but if it is more than the bottom plate, I'm out! I'll have to take it to a local guy who works on these oldies.
  12. Street photographer's anthem. Love it.
  13. In my collection, I have a lovely Olympus 35RC which I have used extensively in the past. As my collection is large, there are times when I won't get back to a camera for some years. This was the case for my 35RC. I broke it out and put a battery in it (I keep them out of my cameras until I use them) and checked it. I could not get the meter to work! This was a surprise as it worked perfectly in the past. I removed the battery and found a tiny bit of corrosion on the rivet that holds the negative contact in place. I cleaned it meticulously and gave it another try. Nothin'. I checked the battery with a meter, 1.37 volts, so not that. I made sure all settings were appropriate for proper use, enough light, reasonable shutter speed, set to A and checked to see if it worked on manual. Of course the manual setting works fine. Dang it! I need to get this fixed. I have heard the the wire beneath the button cup that holds it gets disconnected on these. This would be an easy fix, I think. It would also make sense since the corrosion was on the rivet, which by the way does not make sense as I always remove the battery from my cameras! Anywho, anyone have any suggestions, comments advise? Thanks. Olympus 35RC by Henry Chavez, on Flickr Untitled by Henry Chavez, on Flickr
  14. His stuff looks digital to me, but I could be wrong. He has a flat look that is very interesting. If you want to shoot this look with film, I would start with your favorite B&W film and shoot/develop for a flat tone. Avoid contrasty lighting and pay attention to your scene as far as similar tones. Experiment with Diafine as it renders fairly flat. Also, Ilford Delta 400 has less contrast than Tri-X. Just my opinion, others may differ.
  15. Man, I love the colors and the skin color is perfect.
  16. Man On a Bench by Henry Chavez, on Flickr
  17. JOBO CPP-2 Processor Replacement Part - Main Board P.N 24 024 8216-- M100 | eBay
  18. Really depends on the dpi of your scan. I just had a print made of a scanned slide film to 20x30 and regularly get similar sized Tri-X prints made. Those are also from scans. The trick is having enough dpi for the size you want. As SCL noted, the viewing distance also plays a part with the quality of the print. I might add that ones taste is also important. Some folks hate grain while others love it.
  19. The good think about the handle I have is that it is thick at the d-ring. The issue I have is the camera provides very small rectangular eyelets that were intended for narrow nylon slings. I like the way the Graflex handle was implemented. It is as you recommended, I have decided that the best solution will be to manufacture a metal clip that fits the narrow camera eyelets with a wider end for the d-rings.
  20. I switched from LR to Capture One and haven't looked back. I also now use Affinity Photo for deeper edits, which I rarely do these days. I just didn't want to pay a subscription for LR. I know some pros do it as a cost of doing business, but I get sick of every Tom, Dick and Harry wanting a piece of my dough. It's like renting a camera or just buying it. Also, welcome. :-)
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