john_enea2

debeng, sorry for the long time to get back to you for your answer! here is a brief summary of the process I do. give it a read and see if it works for you in any way. john B&W reversal film test, just for the hell of it

for my hoya G filters, I use +1 1/2 stop compensation. that's direct from hoya's web site

i had my winder replaced in january and the camera is now good as new. there are winder parts and service available, precision camera still has them, so dont let this scare you off. if you dont mind square, its the best film travel camera. but the prices are insane at this point. john

for color I use 3 film. velvia 50, provia 100 and ektar, with the occasional provia 400x thrown in. All look great in the fuji, I have the same camera and love the results. which I use depends on the light. huge range and I'll shoot ektar then provia. lower contrast, velvia 50. I prefer slide film as it is much eaiser for me to scan than ektar. im not a photoshop expert, so removing the cyan color cast in ektar can be troublesome. using the proper lens filter helps as well.

I use the refillable wine bags for my color chems, which need replenishing. they are perfect. easy to fill and refill, easy to get the air out and with the spout, easy to dispense smaller amounts for replenishment. i have been using them for years and have yet to have any issues https://www.amazon.com/Easy-Fill-Bag-Box-Bags/dp/B07PP9YPK7/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=5%2Bliter%2Bwine%2Bbag%2Brefillable&qid=1567016445&s=home-garden&sr=1-4&th=1

I agree with what Ed said, as well as others. if there is only grey sky, filters will do nothing. try doing some tests. This is what I did when I first started shooting with filters many many years ago. Find a nice landscape scene with clouds as well as blue sky. then shoot 1 frame with no filter and then repeat the shot with all the filters you own or will use. I did it with a yellow, dark yellow (G), orange, dark orange, red, light green, dark green and IR. then print or scan the results. a contact sheet really helps here as its way easier to view all the results next to each other. I used a 6x9 camera which made the results large enough to view without a loupe. anyway, it was really helpful.

My camera has the same problem. I agree that its a temp fix, as it worked for me for about 3 months, then it came back again. sent my camera to a famous pentax repair center. They told me after 3 months of looking, that there are no longer parts for the fix, hence they cant fix the camera. Im now in the process of looking for a spare camera to use for parts. sad news, but ne careful with you 67's out there

for bleach, I use a half strength solution of potassium dichromate and acid for twice as long. I dont like having the emulsion come off the substrate. Also, you should look at going with a chemical fogging over a light re-exposure. makes life a lot easier

there is a very good chance you will not have enough developer in the tank to cover the top reel. as such your top roll will have development issues, as in only partial development and it will ruin 1 roll. I use 600 ml for 2 35mm rolls in the tank as developer is cheap, re-shooting shots is not

you can shoot the film with the 720 filter and get IR effects on the film. you can use the red filter and get some subtle IR effect, but it will print like an regular pan film. I actually prefer the red filter effect as you can use it in landscape shots and green foliage will not get dark, it will be much lighter than normal, for me, a very desirable effect. shoot a roll with both filters along with a few shots with no filter and judge for yourself. This film has a longer learning curve than most, but its a very capable film

this is exactly what I do and my results from c41 are great.

I still have a ton of E-6 films in my film freezer. I also still use my projector and really love how 6x6 slides look when projected. What Im more worried about, more than will fuji continue to make film, is that if I buy even more than the film i currently have is whether I will be able to get the chemicals to develop them as I do it myself. Im not sure that the chems will have the lifespan that frozen film will have. could turn out to be like a lot of people who had kodachrome film after the last way to develop them was stopped.

I project both 35mm and 120 and there is a huge difference, even with my smaller 90x90 inch screen. 35mm while better than any digital tv show cant compare to a well shot 120 slide. even 645 slides look great. I have a leica 35mm projector and a hasselblad pcp-80 for 6x6. velvia 120 slides shot with my mamiya 6 are just jaw dropping.

for 35mm, I love the nikon 14-24 and my tiny 28mm f3.5 ai lens. for MF, the mamiya 50mm f4 lens on my mamiya 6 and my pentax 55mm new SMC for my pentax 67.

thanks to fotohuis I shoot superpan 200/RR400s at 160 and develop in beutler 1+1+10 for 9.5 minutes at 68 degrees. very sharp grain but it can be large. but 11x14 prints from 35mm are great.120 prints are amazing. i love that 100 foot bulk rolls are very cheap when bought from germany.

<p>I have a fuji 645zi and have never missed a focus because of the camera. if I missed it was my fault, not the fault of the camera. I like it for its ease of use, but the real slow lens over the years has been a concern if the light gets low. even with tmax 400 or provia 400, you still could be shooting wide open. that being said, the lens is fantastic and I have many 16x20 dardroom prints from that camera that are razor sharp.<br /> I also have a mamiya 6. it is the ultimate travel camera, but I hate the 6x6 square format. I really only use it for slide film as I have a 6x6 slide projector. you have never really seen a slide till you see a mamiya 6 slide really projected. awesome! I prefer the 6x7 format for B&W so I would love a mamiya 7, but hard to justify it since I have a pentax 67ii<br /> <br />the fuji gw69 is a nice camera. like the fuji 645's, the lens is great. it has no meter, so you have to carry something to meter with if you are like me and dont use sunny 16. only downside for me (im a happy snapper, so I shoot a lot) is only 8 shots per 120 roll, so i need to carry a few more rolls with me. not really a big deal. Im down to 8 220 rolls of plus-x and 30 220 rolls of velvia 50. 220 in that camera is great. <br /> <br />If possible, get your hands on whatever you are thinking of and give it a try. handling a camera is a ideal way to figure out if the camera will work for you. I like that i can fit my fuji 645 in the front pocket of a pair of cargo pants ( the extra pockets let me carry a lot of film) and then i can use a strap to hang my mam 6 over my shoulder.</p>

<p>when i spoke to the CEO of Pentax USA at a show last year, he stated that full frame true 645 digital sensors are at least a few more years away. this is all due to yield. just to costly at this point to make a full frame MF sensor. this was the same thing that happened when digital cameras first came out. we had crop sensors for many years before a full frame 35mm sensor came to market. so maybe 2020 we could see a full 645 sensor. who knows.....</p> <p> </p>

<p>for film, its easy. B&W need to be wet printed and slide film needs to be projected. With those outputs, you will be impressed and appreciate what film can really do.</p>

<p>you cab make slides very easily from most B&W films. I have had the best luck with traditional grained films, like FP4 and Rollei retro 80/400s. you can search for processes on how to do it here, on APUG and Flickr. you have to mix your own stuff but its very easy and the results are great.</p> <p>Here is a link for the process I use<br> http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/b-w-reversal-day-some-fp4-and-xtreme-100.113375/</p> <p> </p>

<p>keep looking, deals do come up. I found a backup Minolta Dimage5400 for $50 with everything included. sold it to a friend as mine works fine. every once in a while they pop up on ebay and KEH. make sure it has all the film holders and the AC plug!<br> I tried many and found that the original Dimage 5400 works best with black and white as its light is different from the other scanners. Works great with vuescan.</p>

<p>I have a d800, d700 and many film cameras. I feel the results are better for me from the d700 than the 800. yes there are more pixels, but I prefer the color, tonality and rendering from the D700. For me its all about the end print! not the amount of pixels. I prefer the look of film printed in the traditional analog way and I still do it. Give me a film print every time over an digital print. Yes I have nice digital equipment and a very nice printer when it doesn't suffer from ink clogs. I just prefer the end results from film over digital. If I'm shooting a little league game or a basketball game, digital is king. But if Im out shooting landscapes on a tripod, I have yet to find a 35mm sensor that can give me the results Im looking for over any MF camera. I have a fried with a pentax 645z and his results are pretty good, so i might have a look at that.<br> It comes down to what you prefer. neither is right or wrong. I laugh at all the digital shooters who get offended and argumentative towards film shooters. Why should you care what medium I use to shoot with? I dont care what you think. all that matters is the end results. For color digital has many many advantages over film, but I prefer the look and feel of film. In B&W digital does not even come close. maybe the B&W leica but give me film all day every day. Again, its my preference and choice. you should not care what I use, only if you like my results, not if you like or dislike my tools that I use to get the results. <br> for me, nothing beats a 6x6 slide projected on a large screen. or a real silver gelatin B&W print on fiber paper toned in selenium. </p> <p> </p>

<p>for bleach, I Mix up the bleach in 2 parts, 500ml each. keep em separate until time to use. I add them together at same time. it is not real stable but can be used up to 4 times once mixed if used within a few hours of being mixed together. Part A is 500 ml water with 3g of Potassium dichromate and part 2 is the acid, 500ml water with 12.5 grams Sodium Bisulphate. I got the Sodium Bisulphate at a pool supply company as pool acid. slow agitation for 10 minutes. Your leader (when complete) should be clear. if not, you have not bleached enough.</p> <p>just an FYI, I use a chemical reversal step and its much easier than re-exposure with a light source. Peter Cater should chime in. he is the one who gave me his recipe for the process and its great. </p>

<p>of the recent nikon AF cameras, the N80 is by far the quietest of the bunch.<br /> There is not a big difference between the F100 and F4, but the F100 is slightly quieter, but not by much over the F4. Auto focus is louder on the F4 compared to the F100 with D lenses, but they are the same with modern internal focus AF-S lenses. using the CS mode in my mind makes no difference in sound, but in cold weather it keeps static charge possibility across the film down. The sound of the F4 is more impressive though. It just sounds solid, if that makes any sense.</p> <p>john</p>

<p>I have both setups you listed and use both. for studio portrait shooting, the pentax every time. that being said, I wet print all my negs, so that makes a big difference. not saying the F100 is bad, just that the extra real estate given from the larger neg makes all the difference. and the pentax 150mm lens is a spectacular lens. for portrait shooting with nikon cameras, at 85mm, I prefer the F2 ai-s lens over any of the modern auto focus lenses</p>

<p>for all 35mm, I use a minolta Dimage 5400 first version. It has a different light type which is perfect for B&W film. I found mine on craigslist as well as a backup which I later sold. they are on ebay and sometimes KEH for between 350 and 500 depending on condition and which accessories come with it. Use vuscan and almost any scanner can work on almost any OS. you wont get much better for 35mm than the 5400 unless you go to drum scans.<br> for $100, you wont get anything that will give you much different results than what you have. They key with flatbeds is understanding how to use them to get better results. </p>