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Found 8 results

  1. I was disappointed to discover today that Peak Imaging in the UK has ceased trading. I shoot film - not much - maybe 8-12 rolls of 120 C-41/E-6 per year - but Peak Imaging has always been my go-to lab for developing and scanning. Good prices, but more importantly, always professional, efficient and reliable. I guess the question now is... what UK processor should I switch to? Any recommendations?
  2. Good news for medium format film shooters. I just saw that Kodak have announced the (re?)introduction of KODAK PROFESSIONAL GOLD 200 in 120 format. instagram.com/p/CbXWTYXuZgq Another sign that film didn't quite deserve the death knell that some commentators dogmatically insisted on. I'll be ordering some.
  3. I recently bought a set of chemicals for Kodak C-41. All of them are replenishers. The salesman told me over the phone that "starters aren't really needed for hand processing, they are only for machine processing". I didn't believe this (I think it would be actually the opposite: a machine process would eventually "season itself" with film running through it. Anyways, I placed the order, and I didn't check the confirmation, but they removed both the bleach and developer starters. Can I still use the developer and bleach without starters? I understand some colors may be a bit off, but I'm willing to take the risk (the first roll will be for testing purposes mostly). I noticed though that starters will significantly dilute the chemicals: Preparing the full 5L of developer from my kit would yield 5L of "developer replenisher solution". To this solution, understand I'm supposed to add the whole 1L of solution of 660-1074 Developer Starter. So, if I prepare 1L of "developer replenisher solution", Would I need to dilute it further with around 200ml of water that would come from the developer starter (which I don't have), or should I just use this developer "straight"?
  4. I am in the planning process of developing my own 135 film and I am wondering if it's okay to use only 500ml of developer in a paterson tank with 2 135 reels, instead of the 2*290=580 as it says in the instructions? Can I just prolong the development time by 10% and be fine? It would make it so much easier to split up a 1 liter Tetenal Colortec C41 chemical kit. I don't take that many photos and would like to extend the shelf life as much as possible.
  5. Is anyone else out there using C-41 stand development regularly? I use it for nearly all C-41 film I develop because it's easier and more consistent. I've gotten more processing mistakes with the normal and fast development method than stand development. My process is: use room temp (64F) developer, develop for 45 minutes total, agitate first minute, and then once at the 20 minute mark, and use normal hot blix, stabilizer, etc. The results are very easy to use for scanning, but I've never tried color prints from the negatives before. I've been told that this will screw up the color balance and make prints difficult. Anyone else use it and have a consistent process established?
  6. So I just finished developing a roll and it came out kind of weird. Some exposures seems to be just fine, but then you have some with dark lines on them. What could be the reason?
  7. Hi, just picked up a Flexicolor F1 kit and was preparing to mix, but discovered that Kodak didn't label the bottles the same way they are referred to in the Z101.pdf. (Z101 refers to them as Part A, B, C, while the Flexicolor box is only labeled Part 1, 2, 3, 4) Can someone tell what bottle is Part A, B, C of the developer? I guessed, Part 3 = Part A, Part 4 = Part B, and Part 2 = Part C, but I'd like to be sure. Thanks, Marcus
  8. (REPOST) I developed a roll of negatives for the first time today. I've had the roll and the chemicals for a few months, but hadn't gotten around to developing until now. I followed the instructions very closely, and I'm positive I did everything in order, but when I pulled the film out after pouring out the stabilizer, it was clear and blank with one black strip at the top. What did I do wrong? I'd like to try it again within the next few days, but don't want to waste another roll if there's something wrong with my (brand new) chemicals. Could an accidental drop of developer in the blix ruining everything (or vice versa)? - I used the Unicolor Powder C-41 Film Processing Kit and Fujifilm 400 speed 35mm film.
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