john_narsuitus

Favorite zooms for weddings and events: 28-70mm f/2.8 Nikkor for SLR 16-55mm f/2.8 Fujinon for APS-C Fuji X mirrorless Favorite prime for weddings and events: 35mm f/1.4 Zeiss for Leica M10 rangefinder 23mm f/1.4 Fuji for Fuji X mirrorless Any one of the four lenses listed will allow me to capture 50% of the images I need.

<p>When I know I will be shooting in extremely cold situations, I try to use battery independent cameras.</p> <p> </div>

<p>In the late 1960s when I first hired as a photographer for a local newspaper, I was using a Miranda Sensorex. Most of the other photographers were using Nikon, Leica, and Rolleiflex. I switched from the Sensorex to the Nikon F when my Sensorex broke too many times. I was so pleased with the reliability and dependability of the Nikon F that I have been using Nikons ever since. I have used the Nikon F, F2, F3, F4, EM, and N70.</p> <p>I was told by other photographers that in the 1960s, Nikons were popular 35mm SLRs used by many American photojournalist but Pentax Spotmatics were very popular in Europe.</p> <p> </div>

<p>As one whose livelihood depended on animal products, I have a bias in favor of genuine leather instead of synthetic leatherettes. However, I do not have genuine cowhide on my Leica M. I have genuine ostrich.</p> <p> </div>

<blockquote> <p>"...looking for best MF landscape solution..."</p> </blockquote> <p>I thought the objective was the best medium format landscape solution.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"Let's say you already own a Mamiya 7 with the 50mm lens, and want large landscape print capability:<br /> (LF is not an option; looking for best MF landscape solution)<br /> Consider 6x9 such as the Fuji GSW with a 65mm lens, or stick with the Mamiya and buy the 43mm lens for it?"</p> </blockquote> <p>When I was looking for a medium format landscape solution and a medium format group portrait solution, I narrowed my choices to the 6x9cm Fuji with a wide angle lens and the 6x7 Mamiya with a wide angle lens. I decided on the Fuji because the Mamiya was too expensive for my budget.</p> <p>However, if I already owned a Mamiya 7 with the 50mm lens, I would buy the 43mm lens if that is what I thought I needed.</p> <p> </div>

<blockquote> <p>"Thanks so much for any tips you may have!"</p> </blockquote> <p>Here is what I do when I have similar artwork to shoot.</p> <ul> <li>I prefer to shoot subjects like yours with a large format or medium format camera. However, if I had to shoot with a small format digital camera, I would mount the camera on a sturdy tripod and use a Nikon macro lens. If the room was too small for my macro lenses, I would try various focal lengths until I found the right one.</li> </ul> <ul> <li>If I determined that 35mm was the best focal length for the situation, I would use a high quality 35mm prime lens instead of a zoom lens.</li> </ul> <ul> <li>I place a small mirror at the center of the artwork and parallel to the surface of the artwork. I then position the camera so I can see the refection of the camera in the mirror. This technique places the camera so the image plane is parallel to the surface of the artwork. (I try to remember to remove the mirror before taking the photo.)</li> </ul> <ul> <li>I use grid lines to aid in proper composition.</li> </ul> <ul> <li>I place one electronic flash with a 40-inch white umbrella at a 45° position on the right side of the artwork and aim it at the left side of the artwork.</li> </ul> <ul> <li>I place another electronic flash with a 40-inch white umbrella at a 45° position on the left side of the artwork and aim it at the right side of the artwork.</li> </ul> <ul> <li>To ensure even illumination, I take a hand held flash meter reading at the center and the four corners of the artwork.</li> </ul> <ul> <li>I set the shutter speed no higher than the camera's maximum flash synch (I actually prefer 1/30th second).</li> </ul> <ul> <li>I try to use a low ISO like 100 or 200.</li> </ul> <ul> <li>I try to use an f/stop around f/8 or f/11.</li> </ul> <ul> <li>I adjust the light intensity of the flash to adjust the exposure.</li> </ul> <ul> <li>I set the white balance to flash, sun, or 5500° Kelvin (I actually prefer sun).</li> </ul> <ul> <li>I use a remote trigger to fire the electronic flash units.</li> </ul> <ul> <li>If I decide to use a continuous light source instead of electronic flash, I use a remote shutter release to reduce camera shake during long exposures.</li> </ul>

<blockquote> <p><strong>"Which one is the best 50 mm AI (or AIS)?"</strong></p> </blockquote> <p>I cannot comment on the Nikon 50mm AIS because I have never used it.</p> <p>I have used the 50mm f/1.4 AI and was very satisfied with its performance. However, I replaced it with a Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AF-D.</p> <p>I also own and use the manual focus Nikon 50mm f/1.8 Series E as a backup to my auto focus 50.</p> <p> </div>

<blockquote> <p>"...the Nikon-mount Vivitar Tele Converter 2X was excellent too. That was the original Vivitar company operated by Ponder and Best..."</p> </blockquote> <p>I agree!</p> <p>At one time, my longest lens was a 200mm f/2.5 Vivitar (Nikon mount). Back in 1970, I purchased a Vivitar 2X tele-converter to use with my Vivitar telephoto.</p> <p>I eventually replaced the 200mm Vivitar with a faster and sharper Nikon 180mm f/2.8. However, the Vivitar tele-converter was so good that I still have it to this day.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"...I am looking to expanding my walk around lenses."</p> </blockquote> <p>Here are the "walk around" lenses I use with my Olympus bodies:</p> <p>Panasonic 14mm f/2.5<br> Olympus 17mm f/2.8<br> Panasonic 20mm f/1.7<br> Olympus 45mm f/1.8<br> Olympus 14-41mm f/3.5 - f/5.6<br> Panasonic 45-200mm f/4 - f/5.6</p> <p>If I need anything longer than 200mm, I use adapted Nikon lenses.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"I am looking for opinions about the Nikon 70-2200mm f 2.8. Should I consider this lens?"</p> </blockquote> <p>Back when I was considering a zoom that was similar in focal length to my 180mm Nikon prime, I performed a comparative test with the 70-200mm f/2.8G (first version). I was very surprised that at the same focal length, the zoom image quality was equal to the 180 prime.</p> <p>So in answer to your question, yes, you should definitely consider this lens.</p>

<blockquote> <p><strong>"</strong>Nikon 105mm f/1.8 - don't pass it over"</p> </blockquote> <p>Sorry, I have the 105mm f/2.5 and the 105mm f/2.8 micro. I see no reason to use the 105mm f/1.8.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"How is the 18-55 for landscape?"</p> </blockquote> <p>Normally, I shoot landscapes with large format (4x5 inch) or medium format (6x9cm) cameras. However, when I need to travel with a light photographic load, I will use the 18-55mm on a DX body. I was so pleased with the image quality and field performance of this low-priced lens that I bought a second one as a backup.</p> <p> </div>

<p>If I had two telephoto zooms like you do, I would get an 18-55mm wide-angle zoom.</p> <p>By the way, why do you have two lenses that are very similar?</p> <p> </div>

<blockquote> <p>"...not available with M mount..."</p> </blockquote> <p>Mark,</p> <p>I, too, wish Rokinon made a 21mm f/1.4 with a Leica M mount.</p> <p>Thanks for bringing this lens to my attention.</p>