User_6502147

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<p>Little bit of architectural umph.</p><div></div>

<p>So nice that I wish that my Yashi 124G had some auxiliary lenses. Looks like Detroit to me :>). <br> Les</p>

<p>Nice images this week. Been wrapped up in painting, etc. so here is something from my ancient bridge camera.</p><div></div>

<p>Something in the system got botched up ? Try again.</p>

<p>There has been lots of noise about diffraction at those openings, but I'm quite comfy using it at F22 or 32 whenever I need it. My is also the pre AI, that's been AI'd afterwards. Here is an example at F22 (from F32 version), but don't have the F22 to compare to.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>If you're shooting in RAW, you can shoot in auto WB and adjust it later in pp. Also, you can set the WB on your D3 to florescent....just keep in mind that when you shoot (or return to) in daylight, you'll need to change the WB back to that. Choose what works for you, tho I prefer to do less in pp.</p> <p>Les</p>

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<p>There has been a thread about this very issue some time ago....and I agree with Andy.</p> <p>Les</p>

Crow returning to its nest. Large part of the building was "protected" from seagulls and pigeons....and the exact opposite effect took place.<div></div>

<p>OK, a 'demo' is not new....it's been used in some sort of fashion....even under the eye of the sales person. Yes, there is a lesson in there.</p> <p>That said, take some photos (tests) with different lenses and if they come out good, then keep the camera and learn from the overall experience. Unless you intend to shoot 30K/weekend, your shutter should last many many years. I sold my D700 with 24K shutter count in 5yrs and at that speed (even if accelerated) it would take roughly 15yrs to needing one replaced. Not sure what Nikon lists, but one of the sites shows D800 lasting 200,000 actuations.</p> <p>Just looked at CL and the numbers are in line with "used" eq.</p> <p>If you wish to get vengeful about it, you can send it back (if you can ?)...or perhaps you can state your case and they'll give you an additional refund (?). Good luck.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>Although it wasn't a macro, I found this blue spider interesting....no idea of the proper name.</p><div></div>

<p>Bill, for that to take place you need to play. That drum scanner would be a piece of cake then. Also, you could afford to have someone cut the film to fit the camera :>) from 35mm.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>OK, here is my two cents. I'd take 11-16, 50 and 70-200+1.4 extender. If you do longer reach stuff photos, I'd get 300/4 vs longer zoom. Also, instead 85, I'd get Tammy 90/2.8 macro (two functions in one lens). Monopod + a beanbag....and be done.</p> <p>Les</p>

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<p>Tahoe is rather large (73 miles to drive completely around) and in some places it offers really cools vistas. From my experience the West side of the lake rocks....mostly since an average person has more access to it. You can visit Nordic castle there...and Crystal Bay can be really nice, during some parts of the day and around sunset (glow). The No side has some beaches and some neat rocks that you can suntan on or just take some shots of deep waters (often turn turquoise). I'm not much into gambling, but that's there too....and there are some great views from the top of Harrah's Hotel. The water, particularly with a pola filter, it can be mesmerizing deep deep blue.</p> <p>Lassen is definitely at the top 10 of my list. It's a quiet gem....and not as popular as some of the parks. Actually, when I used to live on the central coast of CA, I thoroughly enjoyed mentioning Lassen...and 9 out of 10 I'd get this weird stare, like<em> where the hail is that ? </em>Anyway, it is certainly possible to hike Mt Lassen to the top. The reason I'm saying this since the parking lot where the trail starts is at around 8400'. Besides, I was 60 when I hiked to the top (in 2010). If you're coming from E. side of the continent, then it would be a good idea to acclimatize oneself to elevations over 6500' (probably lowest elev in the park). I took my sweetest time to get to the top, since I was taking photos. You can take several hikes to view boiling mud, around a lake....in fact there are several lakes. Due to elev. the nights can dip into 40's even in July. In the last 10yrs I've camped there twice with friends for an entire week.</p> <p>Redwoods is less known to me even though I've been through it more times than Lassen or Tahoe. Prairie Creek St PK is within Redwoods and it's an awesome place. If you are lucky you can spot some elk....there is this corkscrew tree (not too far) and also one of the redwood trees is just a shell....the inside is completely burned out. The trees sort of create this humbling effect as they are truely giant (a spectacle). The light may not be as plentiful as at some other places, but if you take a tripod and cable release, you'll be set.</p> <p>You can't go wrong no matter which you decide to choose.</p> <p>Les</p><div></div>

<p>As Matt indicated, try keeping the mic away from the camera, which means it should be on it's own support or someone holding it. If you get really particular, the mic should have it's own mount, which further isolates even handling noise. This way you can avoid bumps or any noise that you may create while operating the camera. Getting a good mic that's hooked up to quality recorder such as Zoom or Fostex, etc. will give you great results....I'm assuming someone will monitor and adjust the sound levels. </p> <p>If you are serious about quality mics (w/o distortion)...there are only few manuf that can claim that. Sennheiser has been making mics for variety of applications and for quite a long time = v. reliable. You might be able to pick up a used Senn 416 (medium shotgun & quite robust) that's been widely used in documentaries and in on-camera interviews. I should add that students used it (@SFSU) and over the years they didn't destroy it....and that counts for something :>).</p> <p>You could also check the specs of AKG, Audio-Technica, Shoeps, Neumann and see what works for you.</p> <p>I'm just adding....Matt and Michael pretty much covered the important stuff.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>What sorts of stuff you normally shoot ? Sports, architecture, macro, landscape, portraits, etc ? Otherwise even a inexpensive lens (like 50mm/1.8 D) could be a waste if not used.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>Well, perhaps after this wedding you'll be ready for one. You can track the lenses you like most...so it will be easier next time. In the mean time you need to be ready for most situations. It would help if you had a macro. Actually, it would be good to have a zoom that would take you to 150, such as Sigma 50-150/2.8...some say that 70-200 would be handy. Also, you probably would get more out of 30-35mm lens vs having the 14mm....unless you really like the WA.</p> <p>Anyway, whatever you need (additionally) I'd rent it...and make sure you have enough time to take some tests & photos so you're not trying to figure things out during the wedding. Additionally, you could rent a set of extension tubes, which you could create a "pseudo-macro"....combined your 85mm.</p> <p>Les</p> <p> </p>

<p>Much depends on the camera and how good it is at certain high ISO's (noise). Some of it depends on lighting and how much DOF you think you need (for specific subject-effect). Usually 1.4 or 1.8 is way too thin, I mean even if you are some distance away. You can try 2.0 or 2.8....check if it agrees WITH YOU and go from there. Each of us have a slightly different approach.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>Morning glory....and no other comment.</p><div></div>

<p>In comparison to this just about any lens seems reasonable.<br> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1023840-REG/schneider_09_1077200_xenon_ff_35mm.html<br> You can rent out Nikon, Sigma and even Rokinon 35mm....and decide.</p> <p>Les</p>

Just arrived in AK. This skeeter was all over my vehicle for appx 15min till I ended his journey....and started mine.<div></div>

<p>John, if you want really good quality you may have to spring up for film-dedicated rig or send it out to get things done professionally. But, with the exception of Plustek 120/35, none of the decent scanners are supported by its manufactures, and finding parts or services are nearly impossible. If you insist on quality, you may have to go to Hasselblad Flextight or drum scanning = usually expensive endevor. These are labor and technique intensive...so anything that's being done for you will not seem reasonable (cost wise). The V700/750 Epson does acceptable larger size negatives (4x5+), but I wouldn't waste my time to try to get something decent from 35mm on these types of machines.</p> <p>As to showing a 35mm image on the screen....you might want to consider that this is not a pedestrian-type equipment. Try dumping around 1/4 of a mill $'s for Arriflex BL (35mm) mot pict camera, as an example. If you want to change the ground glass, it would set you back as much as a superior DSLR today. Plus you add a set of superior primes for 60-100K. Anyway, most people could only afford to rent those. Also, don't forget the viewing distance between the theatre patron and the screen.</p> <p>Anyway, you have to face what is "good enough" for you....and follow up with the relative expense.</p> <p>Les</p> <p> </p>