peter_fowler

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I'm going to see if I can find any of my pics from servicing these cameras . But , first of all , those 2 gears are not the problem areas . There is a gear on top of your right hand side (red arrow ) gear , this gear is driven by a single toothed pawl that fails and causes (one of) the winding problems . Peter

^^ So "Cameragary" you still have that S2a :) ,it seems to be working well for you . Peter

Great to hear , makes these forums a pleasure to use. Peter

If the two metal flanges on the speed grip (that hold the flash) are bent in even the slightest they will prevent the flash from fitting . What John was suggesting is that if you have a small flat bladed screwdriver , then you put it under the flanges and pry it up a bit and test fit until it slides in . It probably won't require much force at all . Peter

^ I've done this also ( something about a nickname of " klutz " comes to mind ) :) . Peter

I have the 105 mm macro lens and the Bronica bellows ( for the Etr)for those great flower shots . The bellows are a challenge to use compared to the macro lens . Something to consider , but the 105 mm macro is no petite lens either :) , Peter

Having owned and used many cameras ( similar YashicaMats ) I still own the Bronica ERTs(i) models. It really is a very versatile camera and has enough add ons to make it suitable for most any shooting or owner. And the negative size is great , so I'm going to suggest the Bronica .

Combining the 2 things I enjoy most , motorcycling and taking pics ! Moto-Guzzi Eldorado at Joffre park in B.C taken on Delta100 and a Pentacon 6 TL . Exposure by guess and bygosh Peter

Also , the 2 cocking pins at the back can look to be in place, but they're not . Make sure you twist the 2 pins firmly against their stop , if the shutter blades are visible it means it's not completely cocked . Get back to us if this doesn't work , also include a pic of the back of the lens . Peter , a lover of freak cameras :)

After this last couple of months , I could do with a little less food :D . Peter

^ Well that's a "pretty over the moon" amazing pic ! Peter

Could not agree more with your Bronica S2 remarks ;) . The Etr and SQ are great bargains still . I'm a fancier of the Kowa cameras , if only because I was actually able to repair them and their lenses , It was a learning lesson of near biblical proportions , well for testing my patience anyways ! The Kowas have a unique (strange ? ) fit in the hand that may take some getting used to . Peter

What a nice job :) . Peter

^^ Have you given up on this camera ? What procedures have you attempted ? Peter

I can even see the threaded holes where it should've been . Not like those parts are just kicking around . Peter

Longer ones will give more effective magnification and also require longer exposure time . I'm also assuming you have a tripod :) . Peter

Hey, hey hey , they take great pics ( that was kinda the reason behind fixing them :) ) . And I do agree with the knob usage vs the crank . Imagine where all the hasselbads would be ,( considering the endless threads on their quirks and failures ) . Peter I know I'm a hopeless Kowa addict , but I really enjoy my Pentacons too . Now that should solicit some responses !

This should be similar to what you may see . This is from the Super 66 model . My Kowa Six has not required any work and so I'm hesitant to take it apart to try and show it's inner workings , however I'd like to believe it must be very similar . The winding crank must come off first , 4 screws under the covering and then 2 holding the winding crank to the shaft . I recall that there's 5 screws around the perimeter holding the plate on the Super 66 . A hair dryer should help soften the covering and a 1/2" wide very thin scraper should allow pulling the covering back near the edges to access the screws . They're Phillips head screws . Peter

Does your film counter work ? The gear train inside the film advancing mechanism has quite a few gears and some of them have a number of gears on the same pin . I have a Super Six that had one of those pressed together gear clusters slip after one or two shots , was quite the nightmare to find , but It was easily fixed by putting a small ball bearing on the end of the pin and gently squeezing it in a vice and presto after about 15 to 20 hours I had that part of the repair finished . :) . Patience is a prerequisite for working on these , But they are really nice cameras when up and running properly . I had the original failed one ( I bought it that way ) apart so often , that I ended up punching small holes through every screw location on the covering to allow easy access to all the fasteners .

On the bottom of the camera body is a plate that is the tripod mount . That piece is held in place with 4 small screws . If you remove the plate you'll see a spring wound around a shaft . That assembly is basically responsible for the shutter operation after it's been fired (the spring in the camera lens is only strong enough to operate the shutter when it's off the body , and even then it seldom gets it to finish the task without some help from your finger) . There's also a gear on this same shaft that transmits this force through to the plate in the body ( where the lens mounts and the lens pins fit into) that is acted upon for the shutter cocking and release . You might want to try some brake cleaner spray at the shafts pivot pin and around the gear . Hold it such a fashion that the spray and debris run down and out the bottom . A small touch of light lube ( after it's dried , it may take a few applications) at the shaft pivot points and on the gear . This is an easy start without going into the body . Hope this helps and is kinda clear :) . Peter

I'm hoping you're not expecting the camera to fire with the lens off . The first thing I might suggest with the lens off and the back of the lens facing you , make sure the 2 larger pins are wound all the way towards the red dot . Then press the small pin in and apply light clockwise pressure to the 2 large pins . Do this a few times at different shutter speeds and check that the shutter mechanism is going through it's operations of opening the diaphragm and shutter blades . The need for applying this clockwise pressure is because the camera body has a significant spring to complete this action on the bottom of your camera. The tripod mount is held on by 4 small screws and when removed should reveal the spring loaded shaft . It may be binding . It applies the return tension to the lens through a 90 degree gear coupling . It's kinda convoluted all that goes on to cock and fire the lens shutter . So basically I'd suggest the lens test first before moving on to possible body problems . PM me if I can be of further help , I have some pics , but they'd probably be better sent through an email as they're on my phone and may be too large for this site . Best of Luck . Peter

I've had quite a few of these cameras apart lately ( and own 3 , 2 Super 66's and a Six ) , which do you own ? I probably have some pictures of the internals that may or may not help , I'd probably use pm'ing you as the pics are rather large . Are you handy with working on cameras ? On the lens that you have , the end facing the camera body has two larger pins that cock the shutter and a small pin that releases the shutter . Twist the 2 large pins all the way to the end of their travel ( to the red dot) , then press the small pin in and lightly turn the 2 pins in a clockwise direction (with them facing you) and check that the shutter goes through it's movements . The body of the camera has a strong spring that forces the 2 pins through their complete travel in the body . Do it a number of times at different speeds , leave the diaphragm at it's largest opening to more easily watch what happening . This should help eliminate the lens as a cause . Peter