peter_fowler

<p>Blue Moon Camera and Machine has properly sized 120 to 620 film in stock. I've reused them many<br> times and because the modified spools have the same size center, when you re-roll them you don't<br> have to peel the tape and re-position the film on the backing paper.<br> ( it prevents the bump from forming on the re-rolled spool, you'll understand when you try it)<br> Regards,Peter</p>

<p>Hi<br /> I'd love to be able to post a picture or two from "My pictures" in Windows 7 . I have not<br /> been able to find specific answers. Help would be much appreciated . Regards Peter<br> ps: this picture is less than 400k</p><div></div>

<p>Have you tried to dry fire it with the back off ? My ETRS fires when the back is off. Just in case it's<br> you're back that's maybe the cause of your trouble. Peter</p>

<p>If memory serves me, 1/500 is the mechanical default speed when there's no battery power. Possibly clean the battery contacts in the camera body and where the lens attaches to the body. Peter</p>

<p> I'm surprised that no one has mentioned the Wein adapter. I too have a Mamiya 7 and was concerned<br> about the Vivitar 283's high trigger voltage. No concerns now as the Wein reduces it to around 6v maximum.<br> The problem is I like these old flashes ! Peter</p>

<p>I have a Kalart side mounted rangefinder on my Busch Pressman D. I've had little trouble setting it for<br> either my 135mm or 150mm lens . So as mentioned previously , it would help to show a picture or two<br> of it on your camera ( lord knows these things have been played with over the years ) One of my Pressmans<br> was modified to take the film holders used originally in the Graflex SLRs and I thought it was oem it was so<br> well done ( the rotating back was removed ) .<br> Peter</p>

<p>My experiences are mainly with the ETR line from Bronica. The batteries last a long time (and are small ). Really extended exposures are attended to with a sort of switch on the lens barrel, which basically removes battery drain on longer exposures. Peter <br> Improving on the better Bronica lens is going to require some pretty unique circumstances !</p>

<p>My experiences are mainly with the ETR line from Bronica. The batteries last a long time (and are small ). Really extended exposures are attended to with a sort of switch on the lens barrel, which basically removes battery drain on longer exposures. Peter <br> Improving on the better Bronica lens is going to require some pretty unique circumstances !</p>

<p> Believe me,you don't want anything to do with a polarizer on your GSW, I'd have to search my photos to show you an example of what happens to the sky ( it was with a 50mm lens on my Mamiya 7 and their polarizer, probably the best attempt of making a polarizer user friendly on a rangefinder )<br> A grad filter , well, that kinda depends on how critical the start of the gradation has to be.<br> Regards,Peter</p>

<p>Have owned all three of the ETR(s)(si) models and they've been trouble free. All were ebay purchases.<br> Have the earlier metered prism and the waist level finders, both have they're places (low level close ups with <br> the macro lens kinda screams out for the wlf ). I've accumulated most of the primes for this model and it's<br> become my go travel camera. Two lenses and a doubler are pretty much my packing limit. Had an SQ, but<br> just not a fan of the square format,so it's gone. The GS model was just a little too large for me to imagine<br> carrying it and a couple of lenses around. They were always a bit too pricey for me at the time. I've since<br> gone to the Mamiya 7 for the 6x7 format, it's definitely more portable. I've had some quite large prints made<br> from Provia 100f transparencies and you'd be hard pressed to see if the Mamiyas' were any better! The ETR's<br> with the speed grip are a great combo. I doubt you'd be anything but pleased with the smallest Bronica. That's<br> my 2 cents.<br> Regards,Peter</p>

<p> I've the Mamiya 7 with their polarizer and I might suggest as was mentioned earlier, a polarizer on that wide a lens<br> that includes the sky will not bring happiness (banding is blatantly obvious). Peter</p>

<p> I've used the Ilford paper (and recommended developer) in my Busch Pressman, between it's very low ISO and crazy black and white contrast, I'm not too sure it'll teach you anything that's relevant to a real film negative ! Not trying to rain on your parade,it's kinda fun to play with, but! Peter</p>

<p> So I got my first experimental roll of film back. I'm going to have to redo the trial again as I screwed up. But I can make a few remarks, earlier it was mentioned that the shorter focal length lens would not be appropriate, I'm going with that, the objects were hard to focus and had to be very close to the lens. Maybe taking pictures of stamps or slides? The 150 and even the 250 lens I have worked well enough as did the 105 macro lens. However I think the bellows makes sense if one doesn't already have the 105 macro lens ( it's certainly less expensive than the lens). It is fun to play with and is quite the sight with the 250 lens on the bellows. Pictures with the next post.<br> Peter</p>

<p> Well, I took the plunge and have a bellows on order. And why would one use a camera on a tripod and not use a cable release? ( or am I a bit naive ?) Anyway I'm awaiting it's arrival and I have every intention of posting some comparison pics, hold on! Peter</p>

<p>Thank you all very much and a special thanks ( to Q.G. de Bakker ) for clarifying my concerns with a concrete example! Time to consider some bidding. Regards,Peter</p>

<p>Well this keeps the brain cells active. So if I read your remarks correctly the only suggested lens with a bellows attachment would be my 105mm macro and the 150mm lens. To make my ignorance of the subject clearer, how much more magnification would the 105mm lens on the bellows (Bronica) realize? Life size (is this referred to as 1:1) or larger ? With the 105 on the bellows this could require a fairly rigid tripod,no ?<br> Thanks for all the input,Peter</p>

<p> I guess I should make my inquiry more specific. I have for my ETRS, 40mm,50mm and 150mm lens (and of course the PE105mm macro ). As with the original question, I'm ignoring convenience . What possible changes (improvements ? ) might I realize using any of these lens on a Bronica bellows over just the 105mm macro lens ? I've enjoyed the discussions, but don't feel any more up on the pros or cons of the bellows vs macro lens.<br> Thanks again,Peter</p>

<p> Could you post an example. I have a PE 105mm macro and could check against any of my shots to see just what a "swirling bokeh" is? <br> Regards,Peter</p>

<p>Presently I have the 105mm macro lens and have been toying with the idea of a Bronica bellows<br> for my ETRS camera. Other than convenience,( or lack there of ) what are the possible benefits of a<br> bellows? <br> Regards,Peter</p>