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  1. I've been processing 35mm and large format for decades. I just (tried to) process my first roll of medium format, and I ran into a bunch of problems which don't seem to make any sense, so I'm hoping someone can shed some light, no pun intended. I put everything in my changing bag to load the daylight tank. I unrolled the film from the reel to get to the end, cut an end off about an inch back from the beginning, then I peeled the backing back and cut the end away from the film. I loaded the film on the reel; it was very difficult, and that should have been my first clue. I processed the reel, and what I had loaded was the backing. Luckily for me, I'd left everything in the changing bag, so I put the reel and tank back in after drying them and loaded the film. I thought. Here's where it gets strange. I had loaded another piece of backing. So then I opened up the change bag and there was MORE film AND backing. What in the world did I do?
  2. I shot this at the Jersey shore on a late afternoon. The light was perfect, and I thought it made a fairly interesting composition. One thing though, all of my photos from this roll have they line on the left. Manufacturing defect? Kodak Ektar 100, Rolleiflex 3.5e August, 2022
  3. Good news for medium format film shooters. I just saw that Kodak have announced the (re?)introduction of KODAK PROFESSIONAL GOLD 200 in 120 format. instagram.com/p/CbXWTYXuZgq Another sign that film didn't quite deserve the death knell that some commentators dogmatically insisted on. I'll be ordering some.
  4. Mamiya 7II body, black, like new condition, in original box, with strap and manual. Hasn't been taken out of it box for the past 12 years. Only used a little. Might be one of the best examples you'll find. $3999/obo. Also have 43mm, 65mm and 150mm lenses, in similar, like new condition, in box. Also have the Mamiya 7 polarizing filter, and 35mm panoramic adapter. Open to potential offers, but not trades.
  5. I recently bought a Fuji 680iii and find that the rangefinder patch isn’t very defined. Does anyone know/has anyone every replaced a ranger finder and put that of another camera in its place? I have the Mamiya 7s rangefinder in mind.
  6. This is increasingly looking like a long shot; I'm looking for the 120 film holder for the rare Polaroid Sprintscan 120 scanner, or the identical Microtek Artixscan 120tf. I have the scanner, and I have the 35mm holder. I ONLY need the 120 film holder. Anyone have an extra just sitting around collecting dust they wouldn't mind charging me a premium for?!?! Does anyone KNOW of someone else with this equipment? I'd even consider a 3D printed one! ~Matt
  7. For Sale: Mamiya RX67 Professional II medium format film camera (will accept digital backs) Comes with: M-S 50mm f4.5 Z (W) lens, caps, 120 film back, WLF, AE Prism Finder, Mamiya neck strap and more. I am selling this camera for a friend who had it as a back up to his regular RZ67. They went to all digital so he does not need this any longer. I have checked it out and everything works. Looks really nice too If you admire Mamiya cameras and want up to a 6 x 7 image, this is the one to get. The top of the line professional film camera. If it does not sell in a week or two, I will buy it from him. It is that nice of a camera.! The price for everything, including a camera bag is $1885 plus $25 shipping (it is kind of heavy). If you have questions, please PM me. Thanks
  8. Hi all, I have a Mamiya 645 afd, but the battery compartment broke so I purchased a used one. The used one has corrosion that I'll be able to clean and use. Plus the need for foil to make the contact (don't ask) and the latch is broken also, which needs effort to close. In my quest to find a battery holder I saw that Phase One has a lithium battery pack for their DF and +DF models. They look like they'll fit. Has anyone tried this? I would like to use this setup if it's workable. The battery cost $100 USD and the charger is another $125 USD. Pricey, but if it works... Before anyone suggests getting the external battery pack, I have one. I just want something more portable.
  9. Dear community, I own a mamiya 127mm K/L lens. The lens has a “foggy” rare lens doublet. Which I recently learned is quite common on this particular lens. Most listing on eBay rated at near mint/exc5 or even mint have this problem (which is for another discussion as rating of lenses especially by Japanese sellers over the years have degraded significantly.) many people use this lenses with that condition as is, which is doable, and somewhat gives you a soft focus 127mm lens if you watch out for high contrast scenes, or during long exposure night photography you will get results somewhat similar to the look of cinestil 800t. Which I do not like (for my style the more sharp the image is the better, even for portraiture.) after consulting with photo repair stores, optics labs, and even some of my scientist friends who work in the field of optics I learned that no one will take my oldy MF mamiya glass and take apart the doublet re-align and recement it. I was told that the price for the job is just many times higher than the price of the lens. so here comes the fun part. I decided to do it myself. As I really have no use for a soft 127mm. Now the doublet is being soaked In methylene chloride and soon will be ready for re-cementing. the question is does anyone know what kind of optical adhesive was used in mamiya k/l glass? I assume it’s a synthetic cement or UV cured epoxy adhesive as it did not look like Canadian balsam or something of older types adhesives. The most important question is does anyone know the refractive index of the used adhesive? So I can chose a replacement accordingly. best regards, mark
  10. Hi guys, I recently got a Pentax 6x7 from ebay. I've been putting my first roll through it and for some reason the winder is continuing past the 10 shots I should get on my 120 film roll. Currently the counter is at about shot 13 - I'm hesitant about opening it up. Any tips? The switch on the side is set to 120 and I'm fairly certain I set the backplate to 120 also. Let me know!
  11. Hello, I just purchased a Yashicaflex online because I wanted to take the leap into medium format cameras. However, I am absolutely clueless. I have downloaded a light meter app and may be able to figure that bit out, but right now I'm stuck on the silliest and simplest thing! How does one change the ISO? I know my camera has a button with the ISO levels on it, and a little red indicator dot but I have no idea how to switch modes. Right now it's on ASA? I'm sorry this is a terribly foolish question! I just want to know how to use this and the manuals I've found don't talk about this? I also don't know exactly which model I have, as it was advertised as A-II but doesn't have a film reverse button? If you read this, thank you. I will take any help I can get :)
  12. There was an old thread (about how expensive some medium format lenses were) that got me thinking about this exercise, but I just never got around to it. Till now. From an equivalence point of view, a medium format 6x6 film image (56mm x 56mm) shot with a standard 80mm f/2.8 lens, is equivalent to a 35mm f/1.2 on a FF camera (same crop = 24mm x 24mm) The film image was shot on a Carl Zeiss Biometar 80mm lens @ f/2.8 on expired Agfa Optima 400Y film The FF was shot with a Rokinon 35mm lens @ f/1.2 on a FF digital, which had to be tweaked a little to match Agfa's lower saturation Optima film emulsion. There are some colour differences that I did not bother to tweak out, and I did not bother with film speed equivalence - I was interested in the DoF & the look of Medium Format. There is also a different field curvature on the Rokinon, and there is contrast differences between the 50 year old single coated lens and the modern multi-coated one with many more elements. The Biometar also has more spherical aberrations wide open (again, expected). The only other difference that you see are the bokeh, the Biometar has stronger outlining while the Rokinon is quite smooth. But that is a difference between the lens character. You can see that the field-of-view and depth-of-field is equivalent. So basically, the big fad for expensive fast lenses and shallow depth of field is to replicate the look of Medium Format on the current FF cameras. They just don't want to admit that. (and then there is large format equivalence.... ;)
  13. My muse, a recent trip to Princeton with my Rolleiflex 3.5E. I would love some constructive criticism. Thank you!
  14. For sale is a Hasselblad SWC/M Biogon T*. It was purchased as an open box and was only slightly used ever since. Glass is super clean and body as well. It includes the A-12 film back, a lens cap, a lens hood, and a UV bayonet filter. 38mm 4.5 fixed lens. Pics can be found on the ebay listing for it: Hasselblad SWC/M - 6x6 Medium Format - All Black (Rare) - Slightly Used | eBay Asking $3,000 on here. Thank you! :)
  15. Hey all, So I recently acquired a stunning Bronica ETRS with AE II Finder from a friend. I've been shooting film for a while (namely with 35mm cameras) and my beloved Mamiya RB67 and M645 1000s. However this is my first Bronica experience and I'm a bit confused. So I placed the AE II prism on the body, heard a click and it appears to be rigid/firm in place. When I look through the viewfinder, it's blurry. Not completely blurry but enough I can't be certain of the focus when shooting. I wear glasses (-2.75) whilst my flatmates (both 20/20 vision) also struggled to see through it. So after doing some research, it appears that the diopter on it could be responsible? I unscrewed it and it was a -1.5 diopter. When I looked through it without the diopter, it was nice and crisp but lacked the magnification to see the details. So I put it back and now I'm a tad confused. I was planning on gifting my dad the Bronica but I'm unsure what to do now. He has 20/20 vision (lucky guy) and I'm wondering what diopter I need to buy or magnifier for the Bronica so he can use and for it to appear non blurry? Secondly, after I screwed the diopter back, it appears that I can't unscrew again (screwing anti-clockwise). The screw just turn & turns in place. How do I take it out? Really appreciate your responses.
  16. I just bought a used Makina w67 and I just have one question to confirm that it's working properly. Unlike other cameras, when I load the film, I can't wind continuously to the first frame. I need to release the shutter multiple times to advance the film to the first frame. Also after the last frame I need to release the shutter multiple times to advance to the end of the roll. This for me is very unusual so I want to make sure it's normal and not a sign of future problems. I'm sorry for such a basic question but there are no videos or manuals available to confirm.
  17. hello, I shot my first colour negative rolls with Mamiya RB67, the camera works fine, I shot peel apart with it, and it has no flaws. The films were developed by me, I believe the chemicals was fresh, at least I noticed these problems only on MF scans, not on 35mm scans. Also, 35mm were scanned with different scanner. this is fuji reala 100, expired of course. Scanned with Canoscan 9000F mark ii, and betterscanning holder with anti newton rings glass: you see, there is something strange in the sky, some vertical lines. this is a flickr link where you can zoom in to the image or download the full size scan: 2020-02-07-0003_mirrored.jpg this is Fuji PRO 400H: same look in the skies. flickr link: 2020-02-09-0007_sm.jpg What can it be? Did I mess up with development? Is it scanning problem? thank you!
  18. Hello. I'm starting to shoot portraits on 645 medium format (Bronica ETRSi) now since I've been shooting street and lifestyle for a while. My first two rolls were Portra 400. The first roll I shot with natural light and the second one with flash. I'm Asian and my model is Asian too, she have typical Asian skin tone. And the photos came out super yellowish, some have green tint in it, they also seems overexposed, but I was very careful with the meter, my digital test shots were well lit. It's so hard for my to adjust in post. I searched for some articles on Goolge but nothing useful really. Can someone here help me on this topic? Because I will mostly shoot my friends and Asian customers. I thought Fuji Pro 400H maybe works better than Portra for Asian skin tone. I ordered some roll of Fuji but in the meantime waiting for the shipping, I hope can learn something in here, what background color I should use, camera setting, light setup, meter,...
  19. Hello folks, hope everyone is well! I recently began working a position at a local film lab, and one of the perks of the job is that I get free developing and scanning of all my film. Not bad, right? Previously I couldn't afford high quality scans from the lab for the amount of film I was shooting, so I had invested in an Epson V600 to scan all my negatives. Now that I'm able to get those high quality scans for free, it seems like a no brainer to stick with that. However, I've noticed some very ugly purple/green color fringing in the lab scans that never appeared on my Epson scans. The scanner we use at the lab is a Noritsu S4, and while the sharpness and overall color rendition does seem superior to the results I got with the Epson, this color fringing is really really nasty and I don't know what to do about it. I attached some photos comparing negatives I scanned on the Epson vs the same ones scanned on the Noritsu. It's so strange that the Noritsu produces such noticeable color fringing--I would expect much more from a professional scanner, especially since I would normally be paying $10 per roll for these scans. I pointed out the issue to my supervisor at the lab, concerned of course not only about the quality of my own photos, but about our customers not receiving the quality they actually pay for. He told me that it was an issue with the film, not the scanner, because my shots were long exposures which he says produces the color fringing. I have no idea if this is really the case, but if it weren't a problem with the scanner, why does the fringing not show up on the Epson scans as well? I suspect our scanner is perhaps not calibrated correctly, or the software we use to scan and edit the negatives (which is pretty dated) could somehow be causing the issue. I would really appreciate any thoughts on this matter! Thank you in advance. Epson (left) vs Noritsu (right), zoomed 1:1 in LR:
  20. Hello everyone, I am new here on this forum, and also new to shooting Medium format. I just bought a "like new" mamiya 645 pro on ebay and received it yesterday. I went out shooting with a roll of Portra 400. I took my first shot and everything was fine except the camera did not wind to the second frame. It locked up and would no longer fire the shutter, it just makes a faint click sound. I have tried a lot of different things, like cleaning the electronic connections, and resetting the mirror/ shutter by holding the tiny lever next to the mirror when the lens is off and firing the shutter. Still no luck, it just gets stuck after frame one. I tried taking some snaps on multi mode with the film-back off and it seems to be working just fine. The shutter stays open the appropriate amount, and the curtains open and close. I am thinking it may be the lens back? Anyone else had a similar experience? Thank you!
  21. Hello. I'm a newbie in Medium Format so sorry if my question is dumb. Just bought my Bronica ETRSi with the Speed Grip and I want to shoot some portraits on this set up. My plan is to use the PC cord to connect my Yongnuo 622 wireless controller to the camera and use Yongnuo 560IV flash for it. But I tried to mount the 622N-TX controller to the hot shoe on the speed grip but it didn't fell in place because the sockets [i don't know if I called them right, but they are the small metal parts that's supposed to come in contact with the metal plate in the hot shoe to transfer the electric signals from the camera to the controller/flash] cannot slide into the hot shoe. I don't know if it's because my speed grip's hot shoe is too old so it's rigid to slide on or I need to buy a hot shoe adapter like in the pictures to attach on the speed grip's hot shoe and then attach the controller on top of it? Of course I will need a PC sync cord to connect to the lens. I'm not sure if this is a right set up or I'm just an idiot. Please give me some advice on this. I want to use the camera with off-camera flash for more control in lightning. Thank you!
  22. Hi all. I have been noticing light leaks of varying degrees of severity on the negatives coming out of my recently purchased Mamiya RB67. Not every frame has a visible light leak on it--some come out fine. However I developed two rolls of HP5 and the same negatives on each roll were affected. For example, the 9th exposure on each roll both had almost identical severe light leaks. The leaks always appear in the bottom left area of the frame (for landscape). What do you think could most likely be the cause of this? I contacted the sellers of the camera and they gave me some options on what to do. I could a) return the camera and get refunded, b) let them attempt to repair the camera, or c) exchange for a different back. If this is most likely just a problem with the camera back then I would want to go with the option of exchanging it. I'd appreciate any thoughts!
  23. Hello, I'm having an issue and I'm hopeful someone has encountered it before. A few of my negatives over the last year, but not all, have come back with a strange light leak on them. My initial thought was that it was my film back, and I suspect that may be correct, but before I invest in a new one I was curious if anyone had seen this. The fact that it does not always occur within even the same roll has me puzzled. The zig zag pattern is always the same shape, although sometimes it moves a bit left and right. http://www.andrewdrozpalermo.com/Leak-1.png http://www.andrewdrozpalermo.com/Leak-2.png Thank you in advance for any help you may provide! Cheers, Andrew Droz Palermo
  24. I was using an old mamiyaflex c2 camera and then extended the bellows to focus close, heard a click and now the bellows will only go outwards but not inwards, has anyone who's used a mamiya or otherwise tlr had this problem and found a solution, any advice appreciated
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