rcrivoliophotography

I buy mostly from B&H because I'm on the east coast. I try to buy as much as I can afford at one time because prices have been going up pretty frequently and that helps me keep my budget low. I do feel processing has gone up a fair bit compared to 10 years ago when I worked at a camera store. Long gone are the days of getting a free roll when you dropped off two for processing.

Thanks for this tip.

The ilford papers come with a fact sheet that help with converting the color filters to contrast filters based on the enlarger type you are using. Reference and then adjust for feel. Digitaltruth.com offers a mass dev chart that will give you a good starting point for development times. For agitation, I'd reference the ilford fact sheets. They will give you a good starting point.

I hope that paint stays in place.

I've scanned many prints that age or older and never had an issue with them being damaged while flattening them. If they are going to be damaged from being flattened or unrolled, they probably wont survive a bath.

It was more of a cost thing for me. The store I worked at was a good bit from my school and where I lived so if I didn't buy for the week I would end up buying what I needed at retail. Now that I shoot so little, I'm not SUPER concerned with the cost.

I'm doing the opposite. In college I was buying by the brick and now I buy maybe 5 rolls at a time.

It seems you have gotten good responses, for what it is worth, I have gotten good results from Legacy Pro at dilution B and assume same times as original HC110

I had good results with Fuji Acros

I'd give my two best friends for Plus-x to make a come back.

BH has it listed for pre-order for about $45. That price doesnt seem bad to me considering the market. I too plan to give it a shot as well.

The shop I was working at about 10 or so years ago had 1 customer that would request duplicate slides. He was using the duplicates to mail in as submissions for photo shows and contests. I would assume most duplicates were made for preservation purposes.

I've used the square yankee(?) tanks before with 4x5 and had decent results. They do use a ton of chemistry but unless you have a huge dark bag, you'd still need a darkroom and that doesnt seem to be something you're wanting to achieve.

Yeah, everything looks good but there was no mention of it in the manual, just that the lever needs to go all the way back in.

I bought a Rapid Omega a few weeks ago and have been shooting it some. It appears it has probably seen more time sitting than using. I have successfully gotten images from it. My questions is with the film advance. The lever is supposed to retract all the way back in but for some reason only after frame 5, my handle will not return to the completely closed position. Doesn't seem to effect anything but if anyone is more familiar with this I would appreciate advice on what my be preventing the film advance from completely returning.

Can you post a picture of your setup?

If you check out my profile picture you'll see my speed graphic. On the left side you'll see it has an electromagnetic actuator. I had a "sync" cable run from the flash to the actuator, and a sync cord from the flash to the two prongs on the flash. This allowed me to trigger the lens with the flash holder, and the lens would trigger the flash. If you don't have this on yours, running a sync cord from your flash holder to the two prongs and then trigger the shutter as normal should trigger the flash. Posting a picture or two of your setup would help further

Could the lines you speak of in question 1 be a result of manufacturing in the glass? A second thought, and I know not the same process, but one time I used some trays not designed for developing to process some prints early on in my B&W career and they were leaving a transfer of the textured plastic on my prints.

After getting married and having a daughter I got out of the photography hobby all together. I just recently opened up my darkroom again and processed a few prints and a couple rolls. I'm a huge advocate of HC-110 especially for how well it keeps in concentrate. To save a few bucks I'm trying the Legacy Pro L110 substitute and have so far been pretty thrilled, and for the cost, if I waste some, I'm not heartbroken.

<p>I'm not sure what the deal was but it seems to be operating the way I want it to this morning so all is well I suppose.</p>

<p>Picked up a X-pro1 yesterday and I love it but I find one thing absolutely frustrating. When using the OVF, after every picture, the EVF pops up and shows me the picture I just took, it takes about 1 sec. for it to go down before I can shoot again. In the settings menu I turned IMAGE DISP. to OFF and it still does this. What do I need to do to correct this, its driving me nuts and I dont like the idea of not being able to see out of my viewfinder for a second after every picture.</p>