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<blockquote> <p>The Fujifilm X10 is about 100 dollars more than the NikonD3300</p> </blockquote> <p>Bill,<br> Maybe confusing X10 ( or current X30) with X100 ?<br> Over here a X30 currrently is around the same price as a D3300 BODY. but the D3300 then still requires a Lens to be mounted, and psooibly if for products on the Internet aditionally a Macro lens.<br> The X10 ( (x30) was just an example of a point and shoot that does everything that is required for pictures ment to be posted on the internet, and gives very decent results , and it keeps things simple. </p>

<p>mmm My Canon Powershot N ( point and shoot with analogue and digital zoom) can connect to :<br> - My network at home by itself if i give it the password ( needed only once).<br> - A nearby Ipad ( the camera serves as hotspot, from which it can upload pictures to the Ipad)<br> - Use a WiFi hotspot to make pictures available at a dedicated Canon site from which i can download them at home to my PC.<br> etc.</p>

<p>I stopped updating after the last version of view nx3, it does everything that viewnx-i and cpture nx-d do together, and better for me that is0.<br> When i need more i still use the last version of capture nx2, but that will not work for ppl who use newer camera's..</p>

<p>Not what you are askeing for, i know..<br> Altough i do have a fairly extensive set of Nikon dslr equipment, lense, macro extensions, even bellows, i still do find for photo's for uploading to the internet, including macro,it mostly far more convenient to use a good quality point & shoot in my case a Fujifilm x10, but others are also very usefull..), but that is just me...</p>

<blockquote> <p>I guess you could bundle 4 SB-910s and you'd get high speed sync capability with TTL in bright daylight, but it's a bit clumsy (top heavy!) and expensive.</p> </blockquote> <p>Nit off topic, but in bright sunlight often just some (silver / gold or combined)) reflectors are much more effective, just utilize that bright sunlight instead of trying to beate it.<br> You cannot win from nature, but you can work with it.. :-) </p>

<p>Couldn't agree with you more Joe.<br />If Nikon, instead of all the i-TTL mumbo Jumbo would have provided a good radio trigger in the camera's and receiver in the flashes, most would have been helped a lot better io think. They even could have lost the contacts in the hotshoe possibly, because with a good radio trigger system you would not need that either...</p>

<p>For all off the above :<br /> I think you also want to distinguish between System- or Strobist flashes like the Nikon / Nissin, Metz etc. systems which can be placed on the camera's hot shoe if you whish to do so, and the likes of Studio flashes which you place on their own tripod mostly.</p> <p>Big difference and each has its own place..<br /> For (indoors ?) Portraiture a set of studio flashes , complete with different light modifiers like soft boxes , barns , snoots etc. allow you to control the light on your subject to the max. ( combined with some reflectors and a backdrop extents the possibilities again). but make you less "mobile".</p> <p>A set of external "sytem Flashes" or "strobist flashes" (diffference : strobist flashes mostly used only in manual settings mode ) gives you more "agility", and more possibilities to work outdoors ( studio flashes can be used outoors to, but take more setup time and other hardware like batteries etc.) but in general provide less output so can be "just not enough"for buildings / architecture</p> <p>So when going "external flashes"there are a lot more choices to be made ....</p> <p>I would ,also start to experiment with some reflectors , which can be dyo cheaply made from white cardboard or styro foam and the like. You can do suprisingly mach light modiying with those. ( gold and silver are also polpular colors for those..) .</p>

<p>Very strange shape for a lens flare, looks like result from sun shinig through te view finde , ( using live view for this picture ?<br> Or rmaybe a reflection from a window straight to the right of the lens, or possibly (rain) drops on the front lens ?<br> Normal flair from the sun does not have these strange angles like to the right of the picture, since it is a "single point light source" of sorts..</p>

<p>my 50 mm/1.4 prime lens<br> THis lens can set a limit in the accuracy and speed of focussing, since AF action is donew wide open, and that means at AF time the DOF for the camera while using 51 AF points ( and certainly when using CI and release priority) will cause a lot of time focussing on the wrong subject will happen.<br> When you want to use this lens, then it makes sense to<br> - Limit the number of focussing points to 9 ( like mentioned above)<br> - Move the AF actuation to tne separate button on the back of the camera, so you can pre-focus without actually releasing, and keep focussing at CI through the whole proces of framing and releasing.<br> - Set aperture at a f4.0 max ( above F8/f11 this lens is less sharp, sharpness sweetspot is between f2.8 and F4.0 )</p>

<p>I agree totally with other ppl who state that it is often wiser to use the second card as a backup.<br> Another reason for this is that SD cards have a limited number of times that they can be "rewritten" and all will fail at a certain moment, in that case the backup can be a life saver .....</p>

<blockquote> <p>I'll be using that lens wide open at f5.6, which is already slow for a super tele.</p> </blockquote> <p>MM still not really bad at 500mm...<br> Nikons other , 5 times the price , supertele 500mm is just 1 stopfaster at max F/4.0, is'nt it ?<br> And this 200-500 mm is not onley a few grams lighter in weight, but also has a newer version of VR which might just help it to be a bit closer in usefullness in some situations, when talking about max. Aperture only that is.... ( not saying it is a better lens, just separating the Aperture part of the story..)</p>

<p>I have a little extra point and shoot camera for this kind of situations...., in my case a Fujifilm x10, those little camera's give excelent results for occasional macro shots and fit in any pocket. prevents the need for swapping lenses too...</p>

<p>Does this answer your question ? :<br> http://answers.nikonusa.com/answers/7022/product/3213/nikon-inc-es-1-slide-copying-adapter-for-52mm-thread-questions-answers/questions.htm</p>

<blockquote> <p>There is nothing visibly wrong with the viewfinder and t You cannot see these reflections while taking the picture through the viewfinder.</p> </blockquote> <p>1 Do you cover the viewfinder when using LiveView ( ie using the LCD for composition) ?<br> 2 Does it go away when you cover the viewfinder when you use live view..<br> why ? : It looks like maybe internal reflection from light coming in through the viewfinder, so maybe the internal foam in the camera which prevents these kinds of "light leakage"is dry or worn out....</p>

<p>Add 1 more "E" lense... the new 200-500mm..<br /> Also interresting :<br /> - Don't confuse the old E-series lense with the new "E" lenses , something completely different..</p> <p>:-) shun was a few sec's quicker with adding the 200-500 .. !</p>

<p>Bryan,<br> You say your delay challenge is worse in "P" mode and in manual it is gone.<br> So question for you then : Do you have "red Eye Reduction " switched on ?<br> This does not work in Manual mode, and delays down the moment the shutter is actuated after depressing the release button, giving the effect of the second click being deleyed when the camere thinks that flash is needed, so it becomes dependend on the light when P mode is on.</p>

<p>Bryan, are you using "Live View"sometimes ?<br> IF so then the extra noise is from the mirror fist going down before opening again to take the picture.<br> Since this takes a little extra time(while you are keeping the shutter control depressed..).<br> It might also indicatewhere the blur comes from, since you need to keep the camera still during the shot, and if you move too soon the picture shows "movement"...</p> <p>Could you post an example of a blurred picture maybe , so we can see if it is an out of focus issue, a movement during exposure, or mayb a defect in VR ? </p>

<p>If you look at the menues for function F7 & F8 , what values do you see ?<br> It is possible to change the functions fo the main and seccundairy control wheels on f7 ,<br> F8 changes how the Mode , release, iso, qual and compensation buttons function ( hold or depress and release before operating and reset after operating the buttons ).</p> <p> </p>

<p>Eric, Amen .....</p> <blockquote> <p>I get that the F-mount being 35mm means you can't simply start over from scratch like Sony and Fuji have, but Nikon could also be much more innovative in the FX market.</p> </blockquote> <p>But.. Nikon tried .... Nikon starrted the infamous "One system" .<br> Nikon could have started a new "DX line" with a smaller registry distance and make this much more flexible, but instead started the "one system line "utilizing a small sensor. Nothing wrong here, but if Nikon can start a "One Line" from scratch, then why not a dedicated "DX line" with a "DX Mount" ( and a step up ring connecting existing lenses to it ....) ? </p>

<blockquote> <p>Indeed, it seems that View NX<strong>2</strong> leaves the exif info</p> </blockquote> <p>Not VIEW NX<strong>2 </strong> but View NX<strong>-I </strong>which is a newer program from Nikon that works intimately with Capture NX-<strong>D.</strong><br> Which one did you try ?</p>

<p>Looks like you can do this with View-NX-I ( companion aplication for NX-D ) using the Export function / options on Export function...</p>

<p>mm If i have a lenshhood lined with "Pluche" i clean it out completely, because it attracts dust & mold", then i spray it with "photo black matte" paint , and never be botherred with the stuff again...</p>

<blockquote> <p> I will miss the in-body stabilization, but I just can't see picking up Sony at this point in time.</p> </blockquote> <p>The Olympus ( om-d E-M1 & M%) do have 5 axis inbody stabilization too ... :-) </p>

<p>If you really want those manual (not mechanical controls, its all electronics behind it) controls, i guess that within the Nikon range the DF is the only option available...<br> Obviously when going for the Df , the body price just represents the body only, you will also need a (set of) lense(s) to go with it, and since the Df is a "fullframe Body" this can also require some investments....</p> <p>Other (d)slr 's i know having "manual Control's, include the Olympus ( om-d series ) and Fuji X-TI series.....</p> <p> </p>

<p>mm Thinking about a "traveling light kit" also , and at the risk of some "responses" to this answer ... :<br> <br /> I'm thinking hard at adding a Omlympus OM-3 D5 mark II Kit, and selling some of my Nikon stuff to make the whole affaire a bit more affordable..</p> <p>This will save so much weight and space in my camerabag, and i think that most things i can do with my D300( which i will be selling then) can be done with the Olympus too, and at the cuurent status of the Oly Mft with at least the same quality..</p> <p>Off course i will also hang on to some Nikon equpment, but this way i will have more choices / options for different circumstances..</p>