CvhKaar

Noo, you do not want to risk to get baking soda residue and/or other plastic crums in the inner workings in your camera body.. that would result in much more expensive repairs..

Maybe the Drain issue has been solved in the Z-series, but the D500 ( which cannot do WiFi through a network, without the WT-7) , it remains an issue, the bluetooth just uses to much energie when turned on in the D500 ..

Same fail still, if you shut down the camera, all those communication functions should shut down too, i think. In my D500, with all comm's functions set to "off" ( including the "Send when Off" for Bluetooth ) , there is still a difference in drain when airplane mode is not set to "on" , all available updates to the software are used so there is no improvement. Off course some very minor battery usage is still there because the internal clock uses some micro ampere's ...

I still think that it is a fail from Nikon, that you have to switch on "airplane Mode"to stop the camera from draining the battery when the camera is switched off, it was already that way in the D500, so this issue is known by Nikon for years already.. ..

at around $250 you find on ebay an 18-55 lens with free D5200 thrown in ...😃

Adobe is always different from the remainder of the windows world ...😎

"Save as" is usually used for a same file format as the original, so .JPG stays .JPG (resizing does not change the file format..). "export" is mostly used for saving either towards an other tool or file format, when a transformation of the original is file is needed, like Wrd97 format to XML format, or raw to tiff format, this proces needs an extra process within the application.

The last option in "options" on transfer 2 is for deciding whether a program needs to get started after importing the images, there is also a choice for which program you want to start.. example in Dutch ( guess the English version will be the same..)

mm 13 Z9 and 15 lenses lost forever ? 😎 They must have also a collection of older lenses up there otherwise they would not need all the FTn adapters i guess..

If a battery swells inside a device it may also damage the devise itself, i lost an old Sony PSP that way, not only the battery was swollen, but the surrounding housing of the PsP too ..

Video is private .....

Just two small questions : How long do you own this camera? , and did you pay for it by creditcard? Why these questions : If you payed by creditcard, and you do not own it longer than 1/2 year ors o, it might be insured by your creditcard company....

If i am not wrong, you can also save a shot taken by each of your lenses for which you have fie-tuned, as the actual AF fine-tune values for each lens are recorded in the EXIF data of photographs taken with that particular lens ...

Mmm, Guess Photo.Net is dead now, at least for Windows users, in windows i cannot choose “ ignore, continue anyway” , like on iOS …

for older NIKON F camera's as wel as my D500 i use a cheap HAMA Remote set for Nikon F, works for my F801s as wel as all other Nikon F's that have teh round connector on the frontside of the body ..

Possibly the 35-135, like other zooms, is weaker at the extreme ends, but i think that the moon is also not an ideal subject to test sharpness. - The moon is to far away, so you only see results at infinite distance - chances are that there is so much atmospheric "disturbances"that it is impossible to get a real sharp image like haze / clouds / moisture layers of air which "break"the light. - the crossing of light from the void of space into the earth atmosphere - Uneven reflection of light on the moon service. So when checking the sharp rendering of an image, it would be better to choose a subject on earth which is also not at "infinite" and has defined sharp lines ( Brick wall?)

mm i think the D4 and D5 also have a "reset"function in the shooting menu and in the setup menu, which remove shooting and user setup functions in addition to the two button reset to reset additional settings and clear de user setup menu's //

mmm Manual Focusing or handheld by the lens? Small format lens like a wide or 50mm or pancake lens? Looks like the good old pinky in front of the lens during taking the shot?

Ah, just what i thought, sold in the U.S.A. ...typical , i live in Europe, never seen them here, could have solved a lot of problems....

mmm that was problematic.. never could find a "ANY"-Key on my keyboard, must be something on an American keyboard i guess..🤔

Nikon Z5 ? 2 SD slots , full frame, or is 24.5 Mp not enough? Only 5 CFx cards pays for this camera...;-)

Mmmm Z8 pictures have already been leaked ....

In exposure = M ( manual) or "P"mode (Program Mode) you can choose "B U L B) , this will give yo long shutter time exposure , if you have set this, the top display will mention "B U L B" . So if you use manual times("Mör "P"mode ) , then check the top display , and adjust accordingly by either switching to "A" mode or choosing a shorter exposure time. ANother possibility is that at some point in time you have choosen the "Mirror Up or Mup mode by deprsisng the Fn or choosing the exposure Mup mode by depressing the exposure mode knob and turning the wheel to "Mup" . if that is the case return this mode to "Normal"( check you manual if yo cannot find this), this mode is to reduce vibrations by mirror movement for Macro exposures..

To my knowledge the pick-up spool needs to provide some resistance to keep tension on the film, until you do depress the rewind lock, otherwise the film wil not stay flat and in exact position, so it is better not to turn the pickup spool back umnles the rewind lock is depressed, it may even cause some damage if you do..

I think it is good to also mention a target/purpose for which you want to use the lens when comparing.. A macro lens like the AF-D 60mm is designed for use at shorter distances while a zoom lens like the mentioned 28-105 AF-D is designed for use at farther away subject ( and holiday snapshots..). This makes for a very different image profile depending on how far the subject is away...