CvhKaar

<p>SB29 is a fie flash system which offers many possibilities. I use this system for around 10 years now and i am totally happy with it<br> Will work on both camera's but on de D7100 only in A and M mode which is fine because you can regulate the flash amount / power of both flash tubes individually...</p> <p>Make sure you get the different sizes of adapter rings with it, so that you can mount it on different flenses ( 52 , 62, and 72 mm) <br> If you can choose get the updated version ( SB29s) ..<br> Here is a "manual" so you know what to expect : http://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/Speedlights/SB-29.pdf</p>

<p>Interresting alternative Shun, using a SSD , <br> Ii guess you are also using a laptop ( PC / Mac) to transfer the immages to the SSD , so do you prefer to carry a "Mini" laptop ( or MAc Air version) for that , or something with a larger screensize for this ?</p>

<p>That would be OK if the printer was still under warrantee but the cost because it isn't makes it far too costly.</p> <p>Why not give it a shot, if your planning to buy a new printer anyway ? <br> All that can happen is that you still will have to buy a new printer if things go pear-shaped, but if it works, you can keep using the current printer for jus a it longer and save some money.. :-) </p>

<p>I agree with everybody about a remote release of some sorts , be it wired or wireless, is an essential part of the solution to get minimal vibration when this is critical foe a shot.<br> I combined the need for a remote with the need for off camera flash, by aquireing a yongnuo yn-622N-TX & YN622n triggers, allowing me to trigger flash from the camera in any mode I like, and triggering the camera ( and flash if required) remotely ...<br> two problems solved with one solution <br> Off course many other radio triggers will do the same thing, but this set was for me the best affordable solution at the time...</p>

<blockquote> <p>Since the camera has built-in wifi, does it mean I can just get a back-up solution such as a WD passport wireless or LaCie Fuel and copy the pictures on the cards in the camera to the hard drive ? is that a solution ?</p> </blockquote> <p>Nope, the D500 WiFi cannot be used without snapbridge which u need to use on a compatible smartphone or tablet ( for now android only), and it works only on a few devices satisfactory but on most it is a pain to use if it works at all...), so the camera will not connect to the drive through WiFi..</p> <p>I use a Hard drive with builtin cardreader, this drive copies everything which is on an SD card that i put into the drives SD slot. The drive also has a built reloadable battery, so it can be used "on the Move" for this function if really necessary, but i do not use that function much as you cannot check whether everything is copied in good order without using a PC..<br /> So all in all i stick to using a laptop , from which i copy imported ( and often already selected) images to the portable hard drive when in my hotel room afterwards, that way they are both on my PC and on the drive and can safely remove them from the SD (and now XQD) cards.</p>

<p>these ?</p> <p>http://www.meikestore.com/product/meike-mk-320-i-ttl-hss-master-flash-speedlite-for-nikon-j1-j2-j3-d750-d550-d810-d610-d7100-d7200-d5300-d5100-d5200-d5000-d3300-d3200-d3100/3389.html</p>

<blockquote> <p> If not what filters could I use to make this camera see the normal visible spectrum?</p> </blockquote> <p>None, if you have a camera which was converted for 590nm and above, then this means that the Original "Hot Mirror( the filter that stops IR and UV) was removed from the camera. Aftewr that a new filter ws builth in front of the sensor which stops all UV and visible light up to 590 nm ( so where the red spectrum starts) this allows most of the red spectrum and near infrared ( 720nm - 1100nm) to pass through. Above 1100nm a normal camera sensor will not register.<br> If the camera would have been converted for "full spectrum" (so no uv-IR filter what so ever ( clear glass filter) then it would be possible to ad an external "Hot Mirror"to stop everything outside of the visible spectrum and it would act as a "normal camera" but this is not the case with a camera converted to see 590nm and above.</p>

<blockquote> <p>45, 24 and 85 mm T&S Nikkor</p> </blockquote> <p>Since al the lenses you mention are T&S : Metering and focus check does not work properly when tilted or shifted on Nikon DSLRs, so the focussing indicators will not be of any use when the lenses are not perfectly in neutral .<br /> So are you having these challenges also when in perfectly neutral ?<br> If you want to focus , and you are also using manual aperture, you need to manually open the aperture when focussing, and clsoe it afterwarts again most of the times to allow for enough light when foccussing.</p>

<p>Did you add theproblematic lenses to the Manual lenses menu ?<br> Do the problematic lenses have a chip ( black piece of plastif with contacts on the lensmount) ?</p>

<p>A Nikon F$ does not have eTTL / iTTL etc, just norml old fashioned TTL so only manual mode will be available for you when using this flash .<br /> In the compatibility table for this flash no non digital camera's are mentioned .<br /> I think for you (when using an F4 ) then maybe a (used) Nikon SB-29 or SB-29s might be the optimum flash for macro work , or beauty shots ...</p>

<p>In my experience Nikon's WMU app is a pain to initially set up</p> <p>THe D500 does notwork with WMU, otherwise ther was not really a problem.<br> The D500 uses the new version of "Snapbridge"wich is a combination of a LE Bluetooth conction, which setsup andcontrols a PTP WiFi connction for data transfer. THi Combo only works with the Snapbridge App which in turn only runs on selected Android devices. <br> Setup of the connection ( Pairing) preferably is done by using the NFC chip in the camera and the Android device, but can also be done through the bluetooth connectionon close range.<br> Altranatively, you can also connect the new WT-7A device to the camera, which gives it network capabilities, either through cable, or through WiFi.<br> The WiFi capabilities integrated in the camera itself are "locked"by software in the camera , although Nikon advertises that integrated WiFi capabilities are available, and even prints the WiFi Logo on the camera, which is only allowed if the camera adheres to the Iee 802.11 xxx standards (which it does not...). This is the misleading part ...... ( for which in Germany a class act was started recently..).</p>

<p>I do own several androiddevices, none of them suports the Snapbridge ap as they contain an unsupportedprocessor , although they support the required bluetooth spec, memory, and operating system.<br> For now Camranger also doe not support the D500 ( otherwise i would have used it) , it either needs an upgrade , or a newer version will be required. Camranger is working on a new version . THis will also require an additional 300+ in dollars when it becomes available ( which is not to be expected in my country within a year).<br> I fail to understand why this kind of challenges was taken care of for cheap canon ( powershot N) camera's over 4 years ago already, and Nikon now comes up with hald thought through solutions like a snapbridge app which works on only a few of the existing android devices, other that it likes to sell its 1000+ euro WT-7a devices( hell thats even expensive for a fully functioning smartphone already, which can do a lot more that the $2 chip in that WT-7A)<br> Nikon keeps its secrets closely guarded by introducing a low energy bluetooth signal which is required to even get the networking capabilities activated between the camera and android device with app, so not so much chance for developers to start with..<br> ANd yes , Nikon published full websites arround the world telling how great and convinient the current version of snapbridge is ( Nikon used that name before in older versions of camera software allready..) but i have not met anybody who can confirm it even works in any stage ofstability.<br> In Germany, now a courtcase has started about the misleading supposed WiFi capabilities of the D500, so im curious to see what happens there...<br> For the german readers :<br> http://www.heise.de/foto/meldung/Kunde-vs-Nikon-Abmahnung-wegen-proprietaerem-WLAN-mit-Bluetooth-Zwang-3238593.html </p> <p> </p>

<p>Yes Chris, they do, but the Snapbridge App needst to do the pairing, because a non standard protocol is used, the app is then responsable for setting up a ptp WiFi connection.<br /> Nikon uses a Bluetooth lvl 4 with Low Energy extention for this in the D500<br /> Most Tablets ( at least the ones that contail Intel Processors) do not support this Low Energy extension.<br /> Apart from that the Tablet needs at least 100mb work memory free to support the App ( so not storage but active processing Memory).<br /> The tested and supported tablets are mentioned in the answers on the page i gave the link for, and unfortunately all of my tablets ( i own multiple) are not among the supported ones, so if i want to use snapbridge i will need to spend money to obtain one of the supported tablets.<br /> I have had no difficulties of using one of my cheaper camera's ( obvioulsy not a Nikon) in different modes of operation with WiFi ( network mode, hotspot functionality , direct connect to any smartPhone or tablet i ever owned) so i think it is a fail for Nikon to not supply such an expensive tool with such limited connectivity possibilities... ( even de USB connector is not a standard USB connector anymore..) .</p>

<p>Ok guys, found the answer, and it looks like that i will not be able to get snapridge, r any other networking function in the D500 to work withut spendi ng more money , either buy another tablet, or buy an expensive WT-7A device<br> I think this is a big fail from Nikon ....<br> <br /> http://blog.iamnikon.com/en_GB/product-news/6-things-you-can-do-with-snapbridge-the-nikon-d500/#comment-468111</p>

<p>Nope, airplanemode selects whether you can transmit anything, whne switched to on then snapbridge switches of alltogether...</p>

<p>Having traded in my D300 & D300S camera's for a new D500, starting setup .<br /> For Snapbridge to work, it needs "Bluetooth switched on but both setup menu bluetooth & Network functions are , and remain grayed out and not selectable...<br /> Anyony got a clue on what i am missing here ? (airplane mode is switched of, so that is not the cause..)</p>

<blockquote> <p>In that case, without using an expensive lens containing exotic glass elements, I'd say you have next to no chance of success. Sorry!</p> </blockquote> <p>MMM Maybe have a look here,:<br> http://www.davidkennardphotography.com/blog/811-ultraviolet-and-multispectral-photography.xhtml<br> and here<br /> <a href="http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.nl/2011/02/uv-el-nikkor-85mm-for-uv-old-vs-new.html">http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.nl/2011/02/uv-el-nikkor-85mm-for-uv-old-vs-new.html</a><br> <br /> looks like both old nand new versions of the EL Nikkor 80mm are not that bad at all..</p> <blockquote> <p>I am not sure that you will get anything out of the D800 because of the filter pack built into the camera.</p> </blockquote> <p>MM When reading the title of the tread, I assumed already that the question is for a UV converted D800 ..</p>

<p>MM If you have the adapter to mount the El on bellows (revers) already, then you couls also possibly replace the bellowas by a set of extension rings ( cheap solution) or you cpould investigate the "Zörk"" mini macro equipment at their website ( http://www.zoerk.com/ ) (<a href="http://www.zoerk.com/pages/p_mima.htm">http://www.zoerk.com/pages/p_mima.htm</a>) and related .(more expensive solution, but a pioneer company in this field..) .</p>

<p>Sandeep, do not forget Pol. filters for the lenses ( or at least one of them) with all that glass in NYC sometimes they com in handyv , as will a proper ND filter when the sun is showing it self, since there will be a lot of high contrast situations then ...</p>

<blockquote> <p>I compared the 16-85mm with three older primes, 20mm/2.8D, 35mm/2.0D and 50mm/1.8, at F8 at the same focus lengths</p> </blockquote> <p>I am not surprised by this result, since the optimum performance is not for each lens at the same aperture..<br /> I find the 50mm 1.8 (my copy of it) to be better at F\5.6 compared to F\8.0 <br /> i find both my 20mm (a bit older.. :-) ) lenses ( F2.8 and F\3.5 ) be best at F\11 and F\16 <br /> So if you want to compare, maybe it is also interesting to find out at which aperture they perform best before comparning them ?</p>

<p>Are you installing a recent version of CCP2 ?<br> Older versions may not be fully compatible with the current versions of MAC OS , so it is always best to download the most recent version if you have a recent version of an OS too.. </p>

<p>I would also return it if it was not mentioned that there is a scratch on the rear element.<br> BTW This looks like someonehas tried to open upthe lens using the wrong tool to me, and did not succeed, </p>

<p>Sounds normal then, I think , the FM2 has a led that turns on when starting up the meter to show there is sufficient power for the meter ..<br> <br /> find this text<br /> "<strong>Battery power check: </strong>LED exposure display inside viewfinder lights up when the exposure meter is switched on if there is sufficient power left."<br> <br /> On this website : <br /> <a href="http://www.thecamerasite.net/01_SLR_Cameras/Pages/nikon%20fm2.htm">http://www.thecamerasite.net/01_SLR_Cameras/Pages/nikon%20fm2.htm</a></p>

<p>Some history of (among others) the 50mm Nikon lenses is to be found at "MiR' :<br> http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/50mmnikkor/index6.htm</p>

<p>However, the real point is that Nikon is very good at finding impact damages.</p> <p>Agree to that shun, Nikon sometimes even finds Impact Damages when there as been no impact at all.. ;-) </p>