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<p>Dan,<br> most updates are in the new version of the picture control which gets installed with View NX2 , there are xtra settings for the D810 too .</p>

<blockquote> <p>Just did an experiment and it does as I thought, no hiccups, no pauses, just underexposed dark pics...(I'd set max ISO to 800 and aimed into a dark corner @ 1/250 @f8) so, a correct assumption as it turned out.</p> </blockquote> <p>mm That would not trip the High Iso Noise reduction, that kicks in at higher ISO levels so its is not comparable with shooting AUto Iso , 1/1000 s at F5.6 .</p> <p>The latter presets could trip the HiNR in broad dailight whn using center weight measuring on a dark subject causing slowing down the burst rate, especially when it is at 8f/s Raw 14 bits ......( it will never reach 8 f/s at 14 bits raw while auto focussing moving subjects though..).</p> <p>Also when auto Iso is on and the EV goes past its lowest limit ( dark non reflective subjects..) then the camera might hickup becasue it cannot underexpose that much, I would need to test that ( using my D300s though..) .</p>

<p>mm Since the background is ok and the model seems moved :<br />Maybe stupid questiosn because i do not own a D7100 :<br> <br />- Is it possible that you have HDR switched on, since this combines two pictures taken in one shot ( depressing the release button fully once takes 2 shots) ?<br> - Is it possible that Multiple Exposure is switched on for 2 pics ?</p>

<p>Today Nikon publishes unexpectedly ( because of the anounced Capture NX-D) an new version of View NX2.<br> Which supports the D810 !<br> Here is the link to the EU ( Dutch) version ( 03.10) :<br> <a href="https://nikoneurope-nl.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/61284">https://nikoneurope-nl.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/61284</a><br> Also a new version of the Picture Control Utility is published along :<br> <a href="https://nikoneurope-nl.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/61340">https://nikoneurope-nl.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/61340</a></p> <p> </p>

<p>mmm Do you have High Iso Noise Reduction switched to "on" ? <br> HiNr slows down the camera so if that kicks in during your burst because of intermittend low light it might also feel like a missing beat ...</p>

<blockquote> <p> It's mounted on a Vanguard tripod</p> </blockquote> <p>Which Vanguard tripod ? , Which head ? on what kind of floor ?</p> <p>i may be mistaking, but to me it looks like :<br> - either the camera moves because the tripod may be to light for the camera - lens setup,<br> - or the balhead does not proprly lock / is properly locked ( on friction only ?) <br> - or mayb the tripod is not based on a solid floor.. ( carpet..).<br> this is not a light lens </p>

<p>The reason i sya : Nikon 1 (kit ?) , is not only they can AF seriously fast, but also because only the D2H still requires you to buy also a fast focussing lens ( i.e. a AF-S lens) to go with it, adding to the cost ..<br> To know more about the Multicam 2000 module which is used in the D2x camera's , here is a link : <a href="http://www.digitaldarrell.com/Article-UnderstandingNikonMultiCAM2000AF.asp#AFS">http://www.digitaldarrell.com/Article-UnderstandingNikonMultiCAM2000AF.asp#AFS</a></p>

<p>MM I would have a look at a Nikon 1 J3 or similar if i need that kind of AF unless the pics have to be printed poster size ...</p>

<p>Totally agree Shun, thats why i think that <em><strong>now</strong></em> may be the best time to switch partly to full frame ( i do have several good quality FX lenses.already.), since this afternoon i found new D800 's priced within 4300 EURo from D610 i.e.<br> D610 at EUR 1649,- <br> D800 at EUR 2029<br> and future price for D810 starting at EUR 3229, ---</p>

<p>Good, just saw a pricedrop for the D800 over here already :-)<br> And that one is still supported by the current Capture-NX2 too :-)</p>

<p>Ok Joe, no problemo, just as a service to you, since you missed the posts i put out on htis forum in the past few months, here is a link to the current Beta verion / program so you can give it a go if you like to..... :<br> <a href="http://beta.nikonimglib.com/">http://beta.nikonimglib.com/</a><br> And a link to the previous post on the current Beta :<br> <a href="/nikon-camera-forum/00ccCK">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00ccCK</a></p>

<p>Note : Do not discard your current View-NX2 / Capture -NX2 if you want to work with the edited images you already have, since NX-D is not backward compatible ... ( even the second Beta is not backward compatible with the first beta...)</p>

<p>Nikon anounces that on July 15th the first official version will be a fact.<br> ( <a href="http://www.nikon.com/news/2014/0626_nxd_03.htm">http://www.nikon.com/news/2014/0626_nxd_03.htm</a> )</p> <p>Nikon announced earlier that Capture NX-D would replace both Capture NX2 , and that from that point in time there would be no more updates to and View NX2, <em><strong>so possibly the D810 will not be supported</strong> </em>in the current Nikon Software suites ( there is no mentioning about what happens to Control NX though..)</p>

<blockquote> <p> This is probably why Canon have had tilt lenses for years, and Nikon only got around to it recently</p> </blockquote> <p>MM i do not fully agree with this statement Andrew, since the first shift & tilt lenses ( PC-Nikkor 35mm F/3.5) from Nikon were produced from 1962 on, and updatet to F2.8 in 1968, the next series ( the 24mm F4.0) were available from 1975 to my knowledge , and the 28mm F/3.5 appeared somewhere around 180 / 1981 ....</p>

<p>mm Challengewith zoomlenses is : Mostly the compensation for the long end of the lens is different from the compensation at the short end ...<br> So if its ok at 200mm, then its mostly off at 18mm and vice versa ...<br> Even if it is ok at the average ( 108mm.) then it can be front focussing on the long end and back focussing at the short end ...</p>

<p>. I was also looking at the 16-85mm. I plan on going FX in the future and don't want to married to DX lenses.</p> <p>Mm if you do not want a DX lens then you do not want the 16-85 i guess....</p>

<blockquote> <p>If you buy this lens and want it to preform, be prepared for some form of post processing</p> </blockquote> <p>mm For me it does not matter what lens i use, there is always som post processing involved, since i like to shoot RAW most of the time...<br> For the rest : Congrats with your new lens !</p>

<p>MM 4 totally differen lenses ( the 85mm's are most similar here..)<br> First something else : You do not indicate whether yuo have 2 camera's, and as for weddings a bacjup camera is a must, i would advise to first invest in a backup camera....</p> <p>Then : the 80-200mm and the 105mm VR Makro are the most versatile ( so multipurpose .) lenses in your list .<br> For portreture the 85mm 1.4d would be my preference but for traveling the `105mm VR and 80-200mm are much more versatile.<br> I do love the 135mm DC and 85mm 1.4d a lot, but those are very specialised lenses ( although the 85mm 1.4d is my favourit when "on the streets"because it can so nicely isolate a subject and blur everything in the background ( so can the 135DC but that one is much bigger..)<br> So : no clear answer to this one, i guess you will have to try for yourself ( rent the lenses that seem to fill the bill for a day or two...) .</p>

<p>mm Is this always in the same spot ? Then it could also be debris in the camera / Lens ...<br />BTW ther is not just a bleu line, ther seems to be something else in front of the lens, the area where the blue line is situated seems to be in some kinfd of rectanglur space.. look how odd the hair of the person undet the blue line area looks... Almost like there is a piece of see through foil is in front of that part of the lens... Where you possibly also holding some kind of platic folder in your right hand ?</p>

<p>BTW , here are some nice websites discussing the different possibilities :</p> <p>http://www.cse.yorku.ca/~oz/nikon/macro/macro_adapter.htm<br> <br /> http://photography.tutsplus.com/articles/a-poor-mans-guide-to-budget-macro-photography--photo-2857</p>

<p>mm Cheapest way to get closer / more magnification i guess is to mount a , let's say 50mm lens reverse to your 85mm or 105mm lens ( whichever is available..). for this there are reverse coupling rings available , i.e. screw a ring in the filter mount of one lens, and the other one in reverse on the other side of the ring ( Twin lens makro...)</p> <p>As an examle a 50mm in reverse on a 85mm lens will get you up to 3:1 magnification..</p> <p>Only thing to keep in mind, both lenses will need the same filter size . unless you start messing with step up rings, but then the secondary lens ( the one in revers) needs to have the bigger filter size to avoid vignetting.</p> <p>Advantage : the primary lens ( the one mounted in the normal way to the camera keeps all its functions. </p> <p>I do not know of a nikon branded ring for this but there are several "Makro Coupling Rings"for different filter sizes available on Amazon..</p> <p> </p>

<p>Good Article JDM.<br> One thing has changed though with the "digital Age": We now can do "Focus Stacking relatively easy , which helps a lot increasing the DoF for the final result.<br> I like this article for an explanation :<br> <a href="http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/focus-stacking.htm">http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/focus-stacking.htm</a></p> <p> </p>

<p>It may look nice, but there is one big BUT for me : no possibility for any partial / selective, or whatever you may call it , adjustments. you cannot lighten or darken, or change colour channels for any separate part of the image i.e. all changes are for the whole image..</p> <p>From what i understand from Nikon there will also be no provisions for this, so it can never be a substitute for Capture NX2 </p>

<p>In the same notes it also says that when a camera wich contains a card with a large number of pictures on it is connected, then it is possible that the camera is not recognized, or it may take a lot of time befare it is recognized...</p> <p>So question, does your camera contain a card with many ( hundreds ) of pictures maybe ?<br> If so , it might help to start with a mostly empty card in the camera..</p>

<blockquote> <p>But is it possible that the guys of nikon haven't updated the algorithm that allows camera control to recognize the 610? frankly it seems too weird .</p> </blockquote> <p>Nikon says vor version 1.17 dd 04-03-2014<br> D3, D3S, D3X, D4, D4S, D60, D90, D300, D300S, D600, D610, D700, D800, D800E, D5000, D5100, D5200, D5300, D7000, D7100 en Df.<br> as compatible camera's..</p> <p>BUT this update also carries a remark about not showing the pictures and restarting all in a certain sequence to solve this: (sorry , Dutch Version, lookup the one in your language on the Nikon support site...) :<br> --------------------------------------------------------------<br> Gebruikers van de D3S, D4, D4S, D600, D610, D800, D800E, D5100, D5200, D5300, D7000, D7100 of Df.<br /> Als een D3S, D4, D4S, D600, D610, D800, D800E, D5100, D5200, D5300, D7000, D7100 of Df is aangesloten op een computer met Camera Control Pro 2, geven de volgende toepassingen geen beelden weer die zijn opgeslagen op een geheugenkaart in de camera: Nikon Transfer 2, Windows Verkenner, Fotolader en iPhoto. Als u beelden op de geheugenkaart wilt weergeven met deze toepassingen, moet u eerst Camera Control Pro 2 sluiten.<br />(Op een computer met Windows XP sluit u Camera Control Pro 2 af en zet u daarna de camera uit en weer aan of koppelt u de USB-kabel los en sluit u deze weer aan.)</p> <ul> <li>AF-F-opnamen met de D4, D600, D610, D800, D800E, D5100, D5200, D5300, D7000, D7100 en Df.<br /> Als u de knop <strong>Opname</strong> gebruikt om foto's te maken in de livebeeldstand bij de instelling AF-F voor de scherpstelstand op de D4, D600, D610, D800, D800E, D5100, D5200, D5300, D7000, D7100 en Df, wordt informatie over het scherpstelpunt</li> </ul> <p> </p>