CvhKaar

<p>Joe,<br /> Thx for your response.<br /> My intention is to utilize some Mamiya RZ/RB lenses, i still own ,on this device giving me room to move around without to much vignetting trouble i guess.<br /> The actus would give me the opportunity to look around for some other lenses when adding one or more of the available lensboards too, maing it a quite versatile device for table top and macro photography, i think.<br /> Since those lenses have quite long registry , they should allow me to get close to infinity if the need arises, but main goal for is "table top" photography, hence no need for infinity mostly..<br /> Thx for the schneider Digitar link, this can prove quite usefull when looking for future lenses , especially the Macro lenses can be quite interresting ( they take some savings moneywise though..:-) )</p>

<p>I am considering to invest in a "Cambo Actus Technical body" for digital camera's, and i am wondering if anybody here has any experience in using such a device on a Nikon DSLR ?</p> <p>I have found some reviews on Sony M3/4 camera;'s bij professional writers, but nothing about actually using this on a Nikon DSLR up to now....</p> <p>This is the device i am considering to buy is described here : <br /> http://www.cambo.com/Html/products_photo/set01/english/internet/Item34298.html</p>

<blockquote> <p>B&H does process or ship orders from Friday sundown until Saturday sundown, they observe the Jewish Sabbath</p> </blockquote> <p>Guess you mean to say "Does <em><strong>not</strong></em> ship" since Saturday = shabath<br> (also sabbat, sjabbes or sjabbos or sjabbath depending on which language you using..:-) ...? </p>

<p>THis will not work the way you explain, you either will need to transfer the images, or use the card in a cardreader ( or in your PC if it has a build-in card reader) , then you can directly open the images in ViewNX2 from your card.<br> <br /> I would not advice this way of working though, because you can mess up the only source of your images this way ( the card).<br /> It is still better to transfer them into their own subdirectory ( i have transfer creata a new dated subdirectoty automattically for each transfer). Then if you'd delete images by accident from that directory, you'd still have them on the card until you have finnished and decide to reformat the card ( in camera offcourse...).</p>

<p>mmm How about a Sigma AF 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM ?<br /> Performs reasonably well, is not to expensive, is not so heavy as the 18-35 ( one stop slower though..) ?</p> <p>Here's a review : http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests/838-sigma175028os?start=2</p>

<p>How about some Photography classes at Nikon School ?<br />This could help to appreciate the equipment she already has even more, and makes for a nice day out ?<br /><br />Here's a starting point (USA) , or go to the Nikon Website for your Country if not USA .. :<br> <a href="http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/Nikon-School/index.page">http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/Nikon-School/index.page</a></p>

<p>It could be "repaired" D800 camera's too, which would render them and second hand and fake...</p>

<p>It is not clear to me wether the RFC camera is new or kind of "Refurbished"since it seems to be sold by a repair centre. <br> It could also be a repaired/ reffurbished legal import camera,in which case there would not be a problem with future service from Nikon ( on own costs that is).</p> <p>If its a repaired camera, i think i would rather buy a new one with full Nikon warranty after all...</p>

<blockquote> <p>It stands for Factory Repair Center</p> </blockquote> <p>Ok, thx, i'll try to remember that one.</p>

<p>mm Maybe not a smart question but what does FRC stand for ?</p>

<p>A battery from 2006 that still works.. that is great !<br> Average lifetime of a rechargable battery is between 3 and 5 years 9 often 6-7). then it needs replacing..</p> <p>Inside the camera is also a small battery for keeping dat and time and also last click number and some other data. when the "big"battery is not in the camera. This small battery also has a finite lifespan and when that failes then you loose data like click count , dat & time etc. so it might well be that this internal battery does not get charged enough when the main battery is failing.</p> <p>So I agree whith other posts that say : buy a new battry, be it Original Nikon ( if they are still produced) or a good off-brand battery and start from that...</p>

<p>Good Argument Robin, you defenetly cannot live without a Loxia or Otus on your cam... :-)</p>

<p>Just a warning,</p> <p>Nikon here in the Netherlands warns for "fraudulent D800E"camera's. It seems that on the internet D800E camera's are offered which in real are D800 Camera's which were "changed" into D800E camera's by usage of replacement of (parts of) the outer shell.</p> <p>Nikon placed an article on this on their European ( and Dutch ) Websites, but i guess those fakes might also reach other parts of the world through Fleebay hence this post.....</p> <p>Here's the Dutch Article : <br> https://nikoneurope-nl.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/63158</p> <p>And the British for the few ppl who do not read Dutch.. :-) : <br> https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/63056</p> <p> </p>

<blockquote> <p>At this point I would have opted for the new Canon 7DmkII</p> </blockquote> <p>mm I seem to remember (actually i looked it up... ;-) ) you saying that you favour Sony's sensors... (Like in the D7000) so i would expect you to go for a Sony SLT-Alpha 77 II if looking for APS-C ?</p> <p>http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00cuZb</p>

<p>This evening, I slipped on an SB-900 flash and took some casual snaps in my living room of a telescope with a long line of embossed letters on the telescope shaft</p> <p>Can you post the result, so we can understand how you took this shot ?</p> <p>An aperture is in a lot of cases not realy favourable unless you realy need a shallow DoF. so maybe this shot would work better at a smaller aperture ?</p>

<blockquote> <p>Well ... with a bit of planning and 74 nights in a hide</p> </blockquote> <p>Nice one... :-) <br /> Here are the results from a guy who "walksabout"deily with a Canon 7d and a 300mm F2.8, and does <em>not</em> spend long stretches in a hide.<br> His main "trick" is : He knows in what habitat to expect whitch birds, and how they behave at what time of day / year.</p> <p>If you subscribe to his website you get almost daily a mail with his "yetserdays results" ..<br /> <a href="http://www.vogeldagboek.nl/vogeldagboeken">http://www.vogeldagboek.nl/vogeldagboeken</a></p>

<blockquote> <p>and I need a macro lens around 100mm for studio portrait work</p> </blockquote> <p>I personnally do not prefer to use a macro lens for portraits ,because i find them to work too sharp wich is not nice for the way they render skin and make all skin blemmishes jump out.</p> <p>Therefore i like the Nikon 85mm 1.4 ( or much cheaper 1.8) lenses a lot better,..<br> Also i do not mind AF-Speed for portrait work accuracy is much more importatnt, and since the D750 seems to perform as one of the best of all Nikon DSLR's till now i would not really be worried in that area either..</p> <p>But using both AF-S lenses and AF-D lenses i do notice that AF-S lenses in general do focus more acurate then AF-D lenses ( probably because a lot less mechanical parts are involved on the AF-S lenses) , so fot tha reason i would look for this purpose at an AF-s lens.<br> For portraits i would also like to be able to use a shallow DOF a lot of times, so for that reason i would rulre out all lenses with a max aperture smaller then F2.0 , and that disqualifies most macro lenses.<br> This woulfd leave me with a choice of nikon 85 mm lenses i guess...</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hmm. if this wide view is needed for single projects , and not to own, you could als consider renting a Seitz 6x17 digital i guess...</p> <p>Here is Seitz's website : <br> http://www.roundshot.com/xml_1/internet/en/application/d77/d122/f123.cfm</p>

<p>I read from different posts on different websites, that in the U.S. the official Nikon service centres will refuse to repair or servivce ( Clean, inspect & Service) any gray market item offered to them, no matter wether the öfficial" warranty period has passed or not. <br> Question : Is this true ?</p>

<p> Ok, then i'll have to agree with JDM, and this an example of "Banding Noise"which is created often by in camera amplification of the sensors readout signals. The readout patterns of the sensor can become more obvious in the resulting pictures in areas that are largely the same set of colour tones because of this amplification in certain circumstances.</p> <p>If you want to process shots showing banding noise it sometimes helps to add a litle artificial noise on top of the existing noise in the affected areas by means of a self created noise layer than try to eliminate it, this way it is smoothened out more and becomes less Obvious.</p> <p>For this kind of processing i like Damien Symonds website since this guy knows how to explain how to do this a lot better than i can, so i went to his website to see if he has a recipe for this and found the following which might help to improve your images :<br> http://www.damiensymonds.com.au/tut_noise.html</p> <p> </p>

<p>Michael, the general idea using af-on for focussing assignment is that you do not have to half press the shutter release and take away the focusing activation from the shutter button. this is convenient when yuo want to pre-focus at a certain point , and take the shot when the subject enters the focussing zone quickly because no more foccusing is needed, by fully pressing the release at once.<br /> Now , as i understand it, chances are tht the VR in this case could affect the sharpness of the shot when not fully settled...</p> <p>BTW : I like your "Portraits of a Willow" a lot for there tranquil atmosphere !</p> <p> </p>

<p>This Nikon article explains to me; some possibly unexpected unsharpnes in some shots when using AF-ON for focussing </p> <p>https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/25406</p> <p>If VR is not fully stabilised yet when taking the shot itsometimes causes some unsharpnes, now if VR only kicks in when preesing the shutter release VR may not Always have fully stabilized yet in some cases because of this ?</p>

<p>Apple updated their Camera Raw support in Aperture & iPhoto for D750 camera's ( among others)<br> Here is a link : <a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1777">http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1777</a></p>

<p>The newest version of TransferNX2 is integrated in the newest version of ViewNX2 so the latter one shouldbe sufficient.</p>

<p>Hard to say without seeying the rest of the picture.<br> Are there by any chance any filters attached to the lens(es) ?</p>