glen_h

The viewfinder on the left (viewed from the back) for right eyed people. The self-timer on the left would be for left handed people. Well, once it is on the tripod, it probably doesn't matter so much. Did Canon start the one on the right (viewed from the back) side? That is, where your right finger reaches it?

Usual C41, and I suspect ECN2, films have a Gamma of about 0.5. (That is most obvious when choosing color correction filters. The effect of a filter is twice the filter number.) When using manual exposure cameras, I round to the next whole f/stop. The low Gamma gives them a very large exposure latitude. Unlike usual black and white films, though, you really want an enlarger light meter. (Or just scan them. Hopefully with a scanner that adjusts for exposure.) For color negative pictures of family and vacations, I always used Vericolor III. That is, as noted above, lower contrast than Kodacolor. I did once develop 5247 (Seattle Film Works days) in C-41 chemistry. All you need to do is rub off the rem-jet in the rinse. (That is, for hand developed. Not so good for machine developing.)

The 12V ones I know of use a thermoelectric cooler like the one shown. They aren't so efficient, so be careful with battery power. For home use, you can get small normal refrigerators for a low price. Otherwise, I learned about Diafine from my grandfather when I was 10. (That is, about 55 years ago.) Diafine works 70F to 85F, with no time change needed. But my darkroom gets to about 50F in the winter, so I have a heater that I turn on, maybe a day before. About 70F in the summer, so that works well.

VP is amazing. A few years ago, on a Snowy Seattle day, I went out with a Certa Dolly. It had 1969 VP127, so about 50 years old. Fortunately for the girls and their art project, the focus isn't quite right. (see below) But VP does just fine. About 10 years ago, I bought an exposed roll of VP122, convenient for testing. I had to tray develop it, as I didn't (yet) have the tank. The pictures weren't all that clear, and I suspect underexposed in the first place. One has the Mackinac bridge under construction. That was about 60 years after exposure. Good latent image keeping, too!

My dad gave me a Pro-9000 seven years ago. (He has a Pro-100 and MX-920.) It sat in the basement, unused and unplugged, until a few days ago. I plugged it, and did the ink test. Eight perfectly shaded rectangles. Three inks are low, the other five almost full, so says the ink report. I got it out to print house plans, black lines and white background, which it does well. I was expecting to need a new printhead, or soak one overnight in water.

Yes I know this is so last year, but ... The box speed of XP2 might be 400, but the actual data sheet says between 50 and 800 with usual C41 processing. With older C41 film, I tend to go a little lower EI, for higher exposure, just to be sure. With normal black and white film, maybe only 1/2 stop for new to 10 years. For reversal films, always box speed, or don't use it.

I had subscriptions to Popular Photography and Popular Electronics when I was young, maybe from when I was 10. I don't remember now which came first. My parents had National Geographic, though. When I first read this article, I went and bought a copy of the complete set on DVD. I have an only second hand story about NG photographers. My dad is in the December 1966 issue, and they sent someone out to take the picture. First, he uses a Polaroid camera instead of a light meter. First shot, all black. Next one closer. After some tries, he leaves until the next day. Comes back with a brand new projector screen, and cuts a big circle out of it. Then a rectangular piece. The final image is a triple exposure. If anyone happens to have a copy, I will explain how it was done.

When digital TV came out, there was much discussion about how people in low signal areas would fare. Weak analog TV gives a slightly snowy picture, but is otherwise watchable. FM sound works pretty well with low signal. But digital either works or doesn't, and at low signal it often doesn't. You could store digital copies in mines, even stores on analog movie film. But if it deteriorates, it is gone, not just snowy. Good ways to store analog photographic materials for the long term have been well developed. Not so well for digital storage systems.

I have a D1X that I take out sometimes. Cost $42 about two years ago. The D1X was about $6000 new, so a pretty good discount. About 6MP, so enough for many uses today.

For black and white, you can use them for setting the contrast of VC paper. There are tables of the settings, though they seem different for different companies.

I finally got a 122 Nikor tank and reel. And the loading guide! It came with the instruction sheet, which indicates that they also made 118 reels.

Snakes in argon gas. (Hissing Contest is the actual name, in the Glass museum in Tacoma, WA.)

Taken with a Lomography fisheye camera, likely the cheapest fisheye camera ever made. (Cost $10.99, and probably overpriced. Not even a fisheye viewfinder.)

D200, ISO 3200, 8s at f/3.5, and a full moon. The lights in the sky are stars.

On the ceiling!

Arc de Triomphe, straight up

Hunchback of Notre Dame (2008)

I didn't ask, and probably don't speak French well enough to ask. In a Paris Metro passageway.

Tunnel under downtown Seattle, days before it opens for vehicle traffic, February 2019.

I believe it takes either 120 or 620. The spool holders and wind knob have both sized ends. This one looks nicer than mine. I think mine only has one shutter speed.

Mostly to see that I could do it (well, not actually "see") I once cut down 70mm film to 120 width with a paper cutter in the dark. I put electrical tape on the bed at the right width, and then push the film up to the edge. You do need a darkroom that is actually dark, though. Since I can buy 35mm film that says "perforated" on the can, I presume there is some that isn't. A 100 foot roll would last a long time at 8 shots each roll. Finding VP828 on eBay isn't so hard, though I haven't looked so hard. Should be easier to find than VP122, which I have a few rolls of.

I tried liquid electrical tape on my Vest Pocket Kodak and it does seal well. But it is thick enough, that the bellows don't go in far enough to close the door. I might have been able to thin it first, but I didn't do that.

I did happen to visit the London in 1971, and remember the then new New Pence. But 60 years ago would have been 1962 (from when the above was written), and so old pence days. Otherwise, I mentioned the price of film that Freestyle was selling around 1971. That is when I was doing school yearbook photography. Some that I bought from Freestyle were called "Aero" films, and different from the regular ones. I am not sure how they compare to what Freestyle sells today, though. In any case, they worked well enough for me. I did use the Freestyle ASA 40 Panotomic-X, and developed it in Diafine, with EI of 160 or 250. (Different on different boxes of Diafine.)

The question seems to ask as if it is a film holder for some medium format camera. But as the discussion notes, it is a folding camera that isn't open. The OP only has the photos, but the friend might have the camera.