glen_h

Usually I try a damp rag or paper towel, not so damp as to leak around the screen. I suspect water is good for bird droppings. Window cleaner might be good, too. I believe that the usual isopropanol or ethanol won't damage the screen. For getting sticky things off, like price tag adhesive, I have found citrus oil works well, and doesn't damage plastic.

Actually, argon and not neon, but close enough.

The first line of Washington DC Metrorail in June 1976. Canon VI and Anscochrome 200.

Recess flag football when I was in 6th grade. (And more interested in photography than football.)

I suppose so. But in the case of film, we (at least used to) have a few choices, such as type A, B, F, and G. Type A for 3400K movie lights, type B for 3200K photofloods, type F for clear flash. As well as I know, type G is a compromise that is supposed to work everywhere. And there are filters to convert from one to the other, for most combinations. I didn't mean it any more complicated than that.

When I was young, Verichrome Pan said right on the box, "Use blue bulbs for flash". As well as I know it, for many years people didn't worry about color balance for black and white films. That is, it would be close enough. But also, in the early years of color negative film, people also didn't worry about color balance. (That is, color temperature.) It was thought that it could be corrected with filters at print time, so didn't need to be right. It seems, though, that isn't quite true. It does matter, and so now we have tungsten blanced color negative films. (Well, maybe not anymore. I have some rolls of VPL, though.) The point of the comment was to use daylight balanced sources with usual films. Blue flash bulbs, blue photoflood lamps, or appropriate filters. If, on the other hand, you want specific unusual color balance, that is fine.

The adapters have no electronics, just wires from one connector to the other. In theory, there could be dust on the contacts, or otherwise not making perfect contact. I have never had a problem with them. On the other hand CF to SD adapters do have electronics. I have used those, too, and no problems.

In either case, you should use the appropriate color temperature light source, and color balance filters if needed. Black and white films are designed to give the right gray scale. As noted, according to at least one author, Panatomic-X gives the best gray scale. Because of the requirements on sensitizing dyes, color films won't give the most accurate black and white balance. You can correct some of that, but not all of it, later.

I remember knowing about the DL1/3N that I used in my Nikon FM, not so long after the FM came out. The FM is not sensitive to voltage. As long as the LEDs light, it is said to be correct. (There is no "low battery" indication. It either works or doesn't.) As well as I remember it, the lithium cells are less constant in voltage than others. The lithium cells are 3V, compared to the (about) 1.5 for others. All else being equal, though it probably isn't, they should last twice as long. The PX28 and PX28A are four cells in one package. The PX28L is two cells. Note the other name for them: 4LR44, as it is the size of four LR44 cells. For some cameras, you could stuff four LR44 into the compartment. (Not so easy for the ones that are under the mirror.) Otherwise, I have mostly been using alkaline cells in my old cameras. Even ones designed for mercury cells, as it is usually close enough for black and white film. Also, they shouldn't cost more than the camera.

The European ones would need to be metric, to fit European keyboards, measured in mm.

There are a few people who try to reproduce the old techniques. A well-known way to view (ordinary) black and white negatives is with a black background, and lit from the front. At the right angle, you get a reflection off the silver, and none where there isn't any. It seems that there are a few different ways to mount ambrotypes, including cementing glass over the emulsion side. Is suspect doing that makes it hard to see details like you ask about. Someone making a modern version should be able to make it panchromatic. They would not be in the 1800's.

I have watched out the window while baggage is unloaded. There is a conveyor belt that comes down, and someone moves it from the belt to the baggage cart. Not often, but once in a while, one goes off the end. I suspect UPS does slightly better, though they might still get banged around. Many years ago, I bought an AR turntable. It says in big letters on the outside, never to ship USPS. (That is otherwise known as parcel post.) UPS and FedEx have some insurance, and I believe it is optional for USPS.

Even reasonably tight, a little light tends to get through, unless you keep it in the dark. Most of my rolls it doesn't reach the actual frame, but only on the edges.

Are there any combined film/digital cameras? I thought I remembered that the new Kodak Super-8 camera also did digital, but it seems just an electronic viewfinder, but no digital storage. (It does store digital sound to go along with the film movie.)

They were sold separately. https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/house/other/any-key-cherry-mx-keycap

And my favorite airport. Taken in daylight, so you can better judge the natural color. The same roll of Anscochrome 200.

This one is also last day of school, but taken with a flashcube on an Agfalux C flash unit. I inherited that one from my grandfather. It is only slightly larger than the flashcube itself.

Taken on my last day of high school. I got a recently expired roll of Anscochrome 200, processing included. There are more pictures, some taken with a flashcube, but wanted to show available light, as above. They are taken on a Canon VI, with I believe the Xenogon 35/2.8 lens. My favorite lens for that camera.

Taken about the same time, on TMax3200 film in a camera with slowest shutter speed of 1. I didn't bring a cable release, which helps for long exposures, so used 1s, and full aperture. Well, the actual reason for this was to test the push of TMax3200 to (so they say) 25600. It is again lit by the full moon, with a smaller aperture than I would have liked. Again held on a fence rail to keep still. And stars are visible, though harder to see through the grain.

It does seem that most of the EXIF details are not in the posted image. Night photography is a challenge with film or digital. Most digital cameras are more sensitive than the usual film, and so usually easier. Without EXIF, it is hard to say, though. You need the highest ISO the camera allows. (Or in film days, the highest ISO film you can find, or at least have nearby.) You need full aperture, and then shutter speed set based on meter, or other metering system. (That includes what worked last time.) And then you need to keep the camera still. A tripod is nice, but often not available. Another solid object often works. I have used fence rails, walls, or other object to lean the camera, or sometimes just me, against. If none of those, then stay as still as possible, hold your breath, and slowly press the shutter release. As noted, cameras with higher ISO values, large aperture lenses, and VR, help a lot. But at some point, it will get even darker. This one, while reduced in resolution still has the EXIF data. You can see that it is taken on a D200 with ISO 3200, 8 seconds at f/3.5 and 18mm focal length. You can also see that the lens is a Tamron 18-270 zoom, with f/3.5 the maximum at 18mm. It was taken at 21:54:43 on Sept 1, 2020. That turns out to be minutes before the full moon at 22:22. https://www.moongiant.com/moonphases/september/2020/ (I didn't know I was that close!) As I didn't have a tripod, I put the camera on a fence rail, and then held it as tightly to the rail as I could. (Though not so tight as to get other motion from my hand.) I might have used the self timer, so I could hold the camera with both hands. There are stars visible in the sky. In any case, the most important part of low-light photography is keeping the camera still. (Second most important is keeping the subject still, when you can.)

Reminds me stories of early IBM PC and PC-DOS/MS-DOS. The FORMAT command gives a "Press any key to continue." message. It seems that includes control-C, break, or any other way you might want to change your mind.

When I was young, my dad had stories about Leica and Canon. One was that the early Canon was a copy of the Leica so exact, that it copies a screw that didn't do anything. (Maybe put in intentionally to catch copiers.) But then he explained how Canon went from there, to make much better cameras, including the stainless steel shutter. When I was 10, he bought a Canon Pellix. When that got stolen, he bought an AT-1. (And then an EF mount SLR, but I am not sure which one.) And then when DSLRs came out, he bought more Canons. So, 60 years later and he still only buys Canon. One that I only somewhat recently learned, though. As part of the deals at the end of WW2, Germany lost all their patents. The start of much industry outside Germany.