glen_h

It's a bar, so it should have bottles to play with.

VP127 from about 1967 in a Certa Dolly, a few years ago. Fortunately for the girls, it isn't quite clear enough to identify them. (It doesn't snow in Seattle all that often.)

Oh, ok. I didn't notice it was a link to a movie. But I do like to remind people about using the Google search, as I have used it to find where many others came from. It is sometimes surprisingly good, and at others kind of funny. Sometimes it finds the wrong feature, and so matches the wrong thing. And sometimes I forget where pictures I took are from.

Late night, in the middle of campus, with Vivitar 283 flash

Tulip festival, April 2021, D1X

Metrorail June 1976, just after the first line opened. Anscochrome 200 in a Canon VI.

I am back to this again, as I am looking for a darkroom sink. I think I want plastic, but 316 or 304 seem to be fine. But the discussion of C41 and bleach reminds me of some Kodak book. They suggest that with color negative film, when one wants to be most sure of getting results, to first develop and fix as a black and white negative. Make prints from that. (Or scan, but it might have been too old.) Then you put it in bleach, and convert back to silver bromide. (Then rinse as appropriate.) Only the developed silver remains, so that is what will be converted. Now develop it in C41 developer, which will work just the way it would have in the first place! Two chances for good results instead of one. In any case, the bleach is used along with a bromide salt, for the conversion back to bromide to work. I am not sure what the FeEDTA does without the bromide ions around. Maybe hydroxide.

Seattle Great Wheel, taken from a ferry.

SR99 tunnel under downtown Seattle

Taken on a Nikon Coolpix 2000, on Oct 2nd, 2003. The CP2000 was introduced in 2002, so close to the beginning.

I suppose. But you lose a lot of light at those speeds. Another that I inherited from my grandfather is the Agfalux-C, a very small flashgun for flashcubes. I used to use that with the Canon VI at 1/30, and it worked just fine. Data sheets always said that you need special flash bulbs for focal plane shutters.

I never heard of global shutter before, but I do know about leaf shutters. When I was 10, I inherited much of my grandfather's photography equipment, especially darkroom equipment, but not his Beseler Topcon Auto-100. That is, an SLR with a leaf shutter. I knew about focal plane shutters from my dad's Canon VI, and leaf shutters from simpler cameras. (And also a Yashica TLR that I used some.) I think he bought the Auto-100 specifically for the leaf shutter. And so now leaf shutters are back again?

Seems to be pretty narrow, from about 560nm to 580nm. If you ever happen to be in a place lit by low-pressure sodium lamps, you might have some idea. Note that it isn't that it is dim, though that might be part of it. Something can be brightly lit by LPS lamps, and still only have one color. My dad had a story about a parking lot converting over, and everyone had a hard time finding their car. They are either light yellow or dark yellow, but no other color. The lines are at 589.0 and 589.6nm.

There used to be a "Pocket Carousel Projector", a scaled down version for 110 slides. But you could also get 110 film mounted in 2x2 mounts, in which case there is a 2 inch lens for regular carousel projectors. That one will vignette on 35mm film. I do have, though, a 2.5 inch lens, I believe designed for 35mm film. Note that 2x2 slide projectors are supposed to work for 127 super slides. I have a Buhl mirror lens, designed for rear projection. I am not sure of the focal length, though.

Pretty often I get good results with Google image search, especially for No Words. It doesn't do so well on this one, though. It seems to match many necklaces.

My dad (still) has a Sawyers projector. About 40 years ago, I found a bunch of them in a garage sale, and bought them for him. Cost much more for shipping than for the trays. About two years ago, the projector wasn't working right. (The focus knob didn't do anything.) I found one on a shopgoodwill auction for about $15, including shipping. (That is, less than one roll of Ektachrome.)

Google image search shows more of them, some of which make it more obvious. Yes I haven't seen any where the lens overlaps the self-times, but I have seen them where it overlaps the viewfinder. https://microsites.lomography.com/fisheye/ The lens doesn't overlap the flash, but likely makes a big shadow just where you don't want one.

I think there are some film cameras that show the number left on the roll, though you have to start it at the right number. (That is, ones that don't automatically reset and count down.) Usually the shot number, that is the part that goes after the letters, is enough for me. I could probably memorize the starting shot of the day, though maybe a reminder of some kind would help. On the Nikon DSLRs that I have, I can set the letters that go on the image file. I have different ones for each camera, so I can tell them apart. The D200 has TWO.

OK, do a Google Image search on it. (I often do them on pictures in "No Words" to find where things are.) There are about 10 pictures of dogs with this camera, some a better view than this. Also, note the convenient (for dogs) strap length. (Easiest it to do "copy image link" in the browser, and paste it into the box on images.google.com, after you click the icon that looks a little like a camera.) (You can also do "copy image" and paste into the larger box.)

The viewfinder on the left (viewed from the back) for right eyed people. The self-timer on the left would be for left handed people. Well, once it is on the tripod, it probably doesn't matter so much. Did Canon start the one on the right (viewed from the back) side? That is, where your right finger reaches it?

Usual C41, and I suspect ECN2, films have a Gamma of about 0.5. (That is most obvious when choosing color correction filters. The effect of a filter is twice the filter number.) When using manual exposure cameras, I round to the next whole f/stop. The low Gamma gives them a very large exposure latitude. Unlike usual black and white films, though, you really want an enlarger light meter. (Or just scan them. Hopefully with a scanner that adjusts for exposure.) For color negative pictures of family and vacations, I always used Vericolor III. That is, as noted above, lower contrast than Kodacolor. I did once develop 5247 (Seattle Film Works days) in C-41 chemistry. All you need to do is rub off the rem-jet in the rinse. (That is, for hand developed. Not so good for machine developing.)