JosvanEekelen

<p>T4i isn't that old; I'd check the repair route first. Perhaps you can contact Canon (or other) first to get the approximate costs for a repair like this.</p>

<p>Check the cameramuseum.com or online versions of Lensworks. AFAIK the EF 50/1.4 and EF 50/1.8 have similar formulations as their FD counterparts. 85/1.8 is a different lens if I remember correctly. You may assume that there is continuous improvement of lenses, resulting in new lens formulations and/or improvement of details like coatings. <br> Your question is hard to answer since you will have to look at every lens individually.</p>

<p>From the looks of it I would expect it to be an enlarger lens. Probably worth somewhere in the range of EUR 20, with a wide margin.</p>

<p>Which LR versions are you comparing? In the Develop mode under Camera calibration you can adjust the preset. In 2012 Adobe has changes the process version, this may affect the view as well.</p>

<p>S1 and S2 are slave modes, apparently it's manual only. A good flash to learn how to control the light but it will require a bit of study and experience. Seems a good deal when you can master the flash.</p>

<p>Could be a (almost) broken flatcable inside the lens. I have seen a similar problem with a 24-105. Since the diaphragm unit was connected to the cable repair was not cheap (EUR 200 or so). Check your local prices to see if the lens is worth a repair. </p>

<p>Thanks for the warning. Everytime I start Windows 10 I get a popup about installing/activating OneDrive. I will do that when it suits me - with proper care.</p>

Do yourself a favor and start with a few good books or a photography course. The issues that you describe won't be solved with a new camera. After reading/study it will be easy to decide what camera you need.

BeBu, I agree that the EF mount is the better one but I can still change nFD lenses with my eyes shut, something I can't do with EF lenses.

<p>If it works it's ok but I have used silver oxide, alkaline and lithium 6V batteries on the A-series bodies without any problem. Each battery has its pros and cons: price, longevity, low temperature behaviour, etc. Personally I would prefer one 6V battery over a 4 x 1.5 V contraption, if only for the extra contact areas. I don't know about the place where you live but here in the Netherlands I can get most batteries by mail order in just one day. OTOH the beeps or just an indication, when the camera works it's ok, irrespectable of the number of beeps. </p>

<p>From the other side (Canon), all or most of my EOS camera/lens combinations have a little bit of play. Seems quite normal and in fact without it it would be impossible to (dis)mount lenses. <br> But.. when I was young everything was better, even camera equipment :-) Canon FD lenses had a breechlock mount whereby the lens remained static on the body and it was locked by a ring. Even the newFD lenses had this system, although a bit consealed. It seems to me that these lenses fitted better with less play than todays lenses. </p>

<p>I assume you have completely restarted your PC; not standby but "off". Check for other Adobe processes that may be running. Check the programs that are loaded when the computer starts.</p>

<p>A few remarks: 6D has no built in flash so you need an external controller for wireless flash. This will add to the costs of course. <br> With regard to (re)charging times: there always comes a point where you will have to wait for the flash to recharge. It depends on the batteries used and on the flash in question. <br> Have a look whether you want an E-TTL flash that is compatible with Canon's EOS system or are you willing to study the ins and outs of flash photograpy and go with manual or auto flashes. The latter are less expensive options but you'll have to study a bit more. <br> Your budget should be enough for a Canon 430 series flash or a third party one (Metz, Yongnuo, other brands). The latter will give you a bit more "bang for the buck". If I were you I'd start with the flash only and go wireless later. Perhaps start with wired flash.<br> Have a look at articles about flash photography: http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/ and others. Bob Atkins wrote about Canon flash as well, I'm not sure the article is on his own site or on pnet. </p>

Thanks for sharing.

<p>There must be something wrong but you have already concluded that. Rebel T6i/750D files should be handled ok in Lightroom, or did you install an older version? Can you post a few examples, unedited but downsized JPG's?</p>

<p>I just checked this on my Canon A1, it behaves as I remembered: @ ISO 12600 (highest setting) I cannot dial in a minus compensation. Oly may have implemented this in a different way but have you tried ISO 800. If my theory is right you will be able to correct -1 stop, not farther. Also check the other side of the ISO scale. Just a suggestion to clear your problem.</p>

<p>Have you checked the manual? I have no experience with an OM-2n but I remember that cameras of that age had narrower limits in their exposure range than today, resulting in limitations in settings at the borders of the range. I may be completely wrong in this, I hope some experienced Oly users have the answer.</p>

<p>Do you have a backup of the catalog? LR askes to backup the catalog depending on your settings. Did you save XMP files? If not start all over.<br> Lesson learned I guess. Don't delete the catalog.</p>

<p>The laws of physics haven't changed. The flange distance, this is the distance between the film/sensor and the bayonet is shorter for the FD system so an adapter would need to have a negative length. As a result EOS-FD adapters come in two kinds: With optical elements, these degrade image quality or without optics where you loose infinity focus. Occasionally I use FD lenses on an EOS-M but focussing and exposure are a bit of a hassle.<br /> Fifty mm lenses are inexpensive. Perhaps have a look at Nikon or M42 lenses with an adapter.</p>

<p>Right order of actions: rocket blower, static brush, wet cleaning. Do a google search (or photo.net) for details. Check for dust spots by taking pictures of a light subject (clear sky or white paper) at f/22 and f/11. Completely defocused is best but not too important. The f/11 picture should be free of spots, at f/22 a few minor ones may be visible. Don't panic about these (at f/22) because even if you remove the dust it will reappear very soon. <br> I still have a few EOS 10D bodies, sensors can be cleaned with a rocket blower, never needed wet cleaning. EOS 5D is a different story, acts more as a dust magnet. I assume the 350D will be more like the 10D but I may be wrong.</p>

<p>The display must be completely blank when you don't depress the shutter button/when in L or A. I don't know if it works with the A-series cameras (it does with EOS models) but you can check electronic activity in the camera by holding a shortwave/AM radio close to the camera and pressing a button. From the sound you can hear whether there is activity (or not).</p>

<p>Not normal. If in doubt start by using the centre AF only since this is the most sensitive one. Remember that the camera needs contrast to focus. Something may be wrong or your expectations may be too high. Start with controlled testing, i.e. check your subject and the AF point used and work from there.</p>

<p>Have a look at http://www.filmscanner.info/en/FilmscannerTestberichte.html<br> At the price you mentioned you can buy a simple dedicated filmscanner. Also consider a Canon or Epson flatbed scanner with film/slide accessory. I'd forget the Minolta/Nikon/Canon scanners since these are now quite old. </p>

<p>I won't oppose your idea of getting an A1 since it was my first camera but there are lots of other options available that are equally suited for learning photography. Why not look at ebay or similar sites? Even in excellent condition and CLA these cameras are 35 years old and may break down any minute. So look around for other options as well. Perhaps an EOS film camera? These will let you use the same lenses on modern EOS digital cameras. Or look at Pentax for good long time compatibility between lenses and bodies.<br> OTOH I still have warm feelings for the A1 :-)</p>

<p>As above, expose as ISO 100. One thing: you won't see dust on the lens in your picture unless there is a huge amount of it - and then you'll be able to see it visually. Don't know about your other test shots but I'd concentrate on the frames left on the roll.</p>