JosvanEekelen

<p>You did. Not all pictures are wasted but you face a few problems. First, the ISO value is specific for a given film type. You can expose the film at a different ISO value and correct this in the development stage (this is called push or pull processing) but in general you have to do that for the entire roll. <br /> The not-so-bad news is that negative film is a bit forgiving about over/underexposure and you can correct when printing. At what value did you expose most of the pictures? Contact a professional lab, tell them at which ISO the film was exposed and ask them to push/pull process the film. And ask for the costs. If you over/underexposed more than a few stops it may be impossible to correct. In the end it can be more economical to reshoot. <br /> Have a look at the learning tab of photo.net, there is a lot of info about (correct) exposure.<br> Hmm, JDM beat be by a minute. Have to work on my typing skills :-)</p>

<p>Just a warning about the ISO dial. No problem that is takes a little action to change the ISO setting since you only do that when you change film rolls.</p>

<p>Only speeds up things in the Develop Module. I got used to it very quickly but the speed advantage is not huge, perhaps because I'm still using an old computer. </p>

<p>Again a lot of spam. Wouldn't it be a good idea to limit the number of posts from new subscribers to let's say one per day for the first month of membership and to introduce a waiting period of one hour for the first posting? Just a suggestion, I don't know if it's technically possible or not too difficult to implement. </p>

<p>Michael Reichmann, founder of Luminous-Landscape.com died on the age of 71, see https://luminous-landscape.com/sad-day-luminous-landscape/ </p>

I still use a 5D 'classic' but if low light is your thing I'd definitely look for a newer model like a 6D or even wait and see what Canon will introduce later this year. Canon seems to be improving the sensor quality so perhaps we'll see some surprises.

<p>If it's been a hobby for years you must have some sort of camera already. Work from there.</p>

<p>Hi Sasha, welcome to photo.net. Can you give us a bit more background? What do you want to shoot, where lies your interest? <br> If you already know that you want to start seriously you can consider an entry level camera-kit from one of the main suppliers. In general you can't go wrong with one of these and you can expand your kit later.<br> Think about the Canon EOS 1300D, EOS 750D or similar offerings from Pentax, Sony, Nikon and others. Or an all in one like the Canon Powershot SX-60 or similar. <br> Start by reading some of the articles here on photo.net under the "Learning" tab.<br> Success with your choice.</p>

Ellis Vener has a few pictures taken with the Sunex lens on his portfolio. Search photo.net for 'Sunex' for some additional info.

<p><a href="http://www.superfisheye.com/">http://www.superfisheye.com/</a> Sunex Superfisheye. 185 degrees on cropped sensor.</p>

<p>The software you use is important as well. Apart from that, when using Lightroom RAM/internal memory and SSD are key to speed. That seems to be ok with your specs, althought the SSD could be a bit larger. I'd prefer a 256 GB one but I have too many programs installed :-)</p>

<p>check: <a href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/Kodak/index3.htm">http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/Kodak/index3.htm</a> These cameras had TIFF output as an option. Is it possible that you're looking at 18 MB TIFFs?</p>

USD 149 is for a full version, upgrade is around $ 79.

Canikon are doing well in profits/sales. Mirrorless (Sony, etc) are winning the reviews and forums - that is, for the moment.

5D mirror release is/was a different issue, these were replaced under warranty. In your case your sister really screwed up. EF-s lenses don't fit a 6D, she must have used a lot of force to mount the lens. Have the system thorougly checked, there may be more damage than just the mirror.

Your suggestion for using an iPad may be the second best option. iPads seem to be rather consistant in color reproduction, much better than tv sets or (some) monitors. Of course this also depends on the customer.

I thought Ukraine tax was based on the size of the officials' pockets.

As above. Stay clear from people who tell you to use Bridge for organizing files; just hope or pray that's their only misconception.

<p>Chuck Westfall use to write on things like this on http://digitaljournalist.org/archives.html . The site is no longer maintained, perhaps you can find an answer in the archives. Older columns seem to be available. </p>

<p>Elan IIe (EOS 50) and 7e are e-TTL bodies, should work with 420EX without a problem. 300TL is different in so far that it pre-dates the EOS series. It might work with these bodies, either in A-TTL, or they might revert to plain TTL. As always check out http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/ for more info.<br> 420EX should work with the 40D as well, I doubt that you will good results with the 40D/300TL combo. This stuff is quite old, things may be broken.</p>

Probably a defective lens. Do you have the opportunity to test it on another body?

1" thick concrete?

<p>Quick one in FotoSketcher</p><div></div>