JosvanEekelen

<p>Check the manual or other (test) websites. It's probably limited by the CF sizes of the day it was introduced, that may be less than 32 GB. Apart from that I expect the 32 GB card to work even at lower capacity.</p>

<p>see https://photographylife.com/how-to-properly-resize-images-in-lightroom<br> 1200 x 800 is smallish, adequate for postcard sized images or websites. Depending on the agreement with the couple you can give them 3600 x 2400 or larger, good for A4 sized printing. I'd set all pictures to the same size (long edge) in order to avoid discussions about cropping.</p>

<p>DAM book: 3-2-1 rule, 3 copies, max 2 in the same place and 1 on different media (optical drive). <br> I still compromise this a bit: 3 HDD copies on 2 and/or 3 TB usb drives. Main/workable copies in the PC, 1 usb drive backup next to the PC and 1 copy stored away in a different place. <br> I will only loose all copies in a major incident, in that case I have other worries than the photo collection. </p>

<p>FYI, Adobe Camera RAW is part of other software: Lightroom or several incarnations of Photoshop. <br> First connect your camera to the computer with the cable that came with it. The computer will recognize it as a separate drive and you can copy the file to a place where you want it. Then you need a RAW converter to work on the CR2 file. Several of them are available, paid and free but all have in common that you have to learn how to use them. <br> Are you going to shoot in RAW more often or did you accidently change the setting? If it's a one time experience ask someone/a friend/pnetter to convert the file. If not have a look at the various software offerings.</p>

<p>As Andrew stated: the output from the sensor is in color. Will change to monochrome if you have the Bayer filter removed. Have a look at Lifepixel's website, they do IR conversion. Their website shows (showed?) some examples of what the output after conversion looks like. </p>

<p>I had to double check it but this is behind the frontlens, behind the glass. Curious as to what happened.</p>

<p>Never seen this before. Can the front element have acted as a magnifying glass and coused overheating of the lens innards?<br> I'd contact Canon for repair and a possible cause.</p>

<p>See http://www.photo.net/beginner-photography-questions-forum/00eCUy <br> Technology does not evolve so fast that you can expect a different reply than a month ago, even when posting in a different forum. </p>

<p>These things happen when you change a system. Life is too short to wonder why. Just see if you can/must upgrade the Canon software and instruct it to run when a cardreader is connected. It's usually a setting in the preferences part of the software. Setting it to your personal preferences takes less time than wondering about why it happened.</p>

<p>Rain and cameras don't go together very well. Also keep in mind that Canon probably won't honor the warranty when there is water damage. <br> More expensive bodies (1-series) are better shielded against water drops, your combo of the T5i and 55-250 definitely is not. You can buy inexpensive rain covers that will help in cases like this. <br> The card reader issue: probably a setting in the Canon software. Personally i prefer this to be off in order to avoid programs to start when I insert a usb device but YMMV. </p>

<p>Not very easy to answer. Output files should generally be in sRGB color space and JPG, unless someone has more specific needs. Forget the DPI rating, it's useless. <br> The parameters you should set are the image size (pixels x pixels) and the compression level/filesize. These depend on the specific use of the picture, print or projection, etc. </p> <p>As a guideline: <br> For A4 prints: 3600 pixels longest side > 3600 x 2400 pixels and a filesize of 3000 K (in Lightroom). <br> For Photo.net display: 1000 pixels longest side > 1000 x 667 pixels and 80% quality (also in Lightroom). <br> This is not complete but it gives you a starting point.</p>

<p>Yes, googling st-e2 and 430EX III led me to the dutch Canon website which states that 430EX III and ST-E2 are compatible. </p>

<p>Welcome to photo.net. I'm not familiar with the lens in question but according to some of the reviews I saw "you can just grab the ring any time for instant manual-focus override". This is contrary to your experience. First I'd look at the several menu settings. Perhaps you have to set the manual focus option somewhere. Although this is a kit lens the reviews are ok so you should get it to work. <br> The zoom ring is not intended for focussing although changing to a wider perspective may make the picture look like it is in focus. I'd say back to the shop or have someone with more knowledge of the camera and body have a look at it. <br> BTW, your pictures are missing the EXIF information, that makes it impossible to relate them to whatever problem you're having. </p>

<p>Just got a message from Serif that Affinity Photo is available for download, as beta version for Windows users. I have not tested or downloaded the software yet, that will have to wait till later today, but it is nice that Windows users have the option to use it now.</p>

Lightroom's Map module is theonly one I'm sure of. Have a look at Google Earth/Maps, Garmin's Basecamp and or do a Google search.

<p>Looks like data corruption. Mostly due to hardware problems, wiring, connectors, failing HDD, etc. I'd start by checking usb cables, card reader, etc. Try to download from camera with a different usb cable, to a different computer, etc. (Visually) check the camera to CF card contactss. Issues like this take time to find the root cause.<br> Batteries and firmware change won't help. If this is an internal camera wiring problem cleaning will not help either. </p>

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<p>Hmm. The disappearing bride. Very frustrating for the groom. Must be some magic involved or do you simply mean that you did not hear from her?</p> <p>Joking aside, you were in contact with her primarily in writing (mail/SMS). Why don't you call her and explain yoour situation and hear what she has to say? It's up to you to be lenient with regard to the contact/payment - or not.</p>

AK-47 ?

Forget the dpi ratng, it's meaningless. Divide the resolution figure by 200 and you get the size in inches that you can print with a reasonable quality. For better quality divide by 300, or if you're less critical by 150. The outcome also depends on the quality of the original and on compression of the digital file. Do a test with one of the files. Dust will show on the print if it's present on the scan. Count on some pre processing.

<p>I had this a long time ago. HDD was the culprit. Some compatibility problem with the rest of the computer hardware. If your system behaves normally searcht the fault in the memory card, card reader, usb cable, etc.<br> File may be recoverable to some degree with JPEGsnoop or other programs. </p>

<p>Have you checked the custom functions? One of them switches the flash off. Another thing to check is the preflash, does the camera emit a preflash and/or main flash in Auto; same question when in P/Av/Tv/M ? To check the preflash set a long shutter time (1 sec) and 2nd curtain flash. In that case you see 2 flashes, one before the shutter opens and the second one just before the shutter closes.</p>

<p>I don't think you will see many animals running fast away from you. And if the animals run towards you forget the picture and take shelter :-)<br> Joking apart, most animals you may expect to see will move slowly so AF speed will not be a real issue. Perhaps birds in flight or the wildebeest trek but the rest will be ok. I used a Canon 100-400 on safari but never had the feeling that the AF speed was stressed to its limits. Keep in mind that most of the time you will be at some distance to the animals. <br> Enjoy your trip.</p>

<p>Just a suggestion: Linux may be better in recognizing the scanner, at least that's my experience with a Nikon LS-30, also SCSI. As stated above, SCSI support for peripherals was more or less dropped after Win 8/ME which means that by now it is very ancient technology.</p>

<p>While upgrading to a new body may seem tempting I'd have a look at your lenses as well. I'd look for something wider than 28 mm, perhaps the standard 18-55 mm lens and or the 10-18 mm one, both EF-s.<br> WRT bodies it depends on your needs, what do you want that the 1100D does not offer. </p>