chuck_foreman1

Another week, another camera. Here I am shooting the Nikon 801s. A friend had given me 2 of these as he couldn't be bothered to sell them. Although I suspect he still has his FM2ns and/or some other valued Nikon gear, he has abandoned film. for the moment. Initially, they both worked, but as I was dry testing them later, I determined the one doesn't advance the film. So I have this one. I suspect I used the 28mm Kiron (One day I will get a Nikon wide-angle..for the glass 🙂 ) While I was pleased with the rendering . The photos were for the most part repetitious in all senses of the word...meaning you've probably seen these scenes before and I took multiple exposures of the same subjects...again 😞 My usual APX100 in D76 1:1 Bruisin' Buddies... I did manage to sell the 801 for 5,00€ Note the light leaks... I suspect this is the cartridge and not the camera.... I hope :) This is my apartment on the right . Needs perspective correction We've all seen scene this in various views. Seems sharp..but would a Nikon lens (WA) be sharper?? Posted this scene/subject previously too. When light is so strong I like the relief of the building. A/the previous post I did was using a longer (80mm Tessar? ) lens. Was better IMHO

Film friends.. Once again we are assembled to share our photo results from film cameras. As I am perpetually behind in processing and or posting; I will share some of my mid summer exposures using my rewer (to me) Contax RTS. I doubt if anybody recalls an earlier post of the Contax IIa, where I lamented replacing it with newer one after being frustrated by my 10 year old under used exemplar. with on going shutter issues.. The same thing happened here. I bought a RTS and later found that the shutter was intermittent. Sometimes the first curtain doesn't release and you have a blank frame. It will work about 90% of the time if you A: wait a long time (5-6min) before frames B: Exercise extreme care when cocking the shutter. So after 5 years or so, I have now replaced this with a more reliable exemplar. I think in each case , I spent 70-80 Euros . I likely used the 35mm as pictured, or the 28mm My usual APX100 in D76 1:1 This 35mm lens has some issues.. Welcome shade on a hot day. The building is the newly erected community indoor pool. I likely have featured this building as it dominated the skyline and is really close to me. .. note the usual poor handing.. scratched and bromide drag ..again!! Another try for a summer view.. I want this to contrast to a winter view I made before.. can't seem to get what I want..Try Try Try again This is from another roll.. no bromide here Autobahn Lighting .. well I tried

I'm just going to guess? Does it have a window? Is there a "Start" marking in the chamber? Many "Cord" copies just use the window. It may also be a subset of that; where you use the window to get to the first frame, and thereafter they are measured so that the winding maintains the spacing of the frames. It may be if you have a start mark in the chamber it will advance correctly to the first exposure and thereafter maintain the frame spacing. The "button" is likely a double exposure prevention. You have to press the button to advance the film, and as mentioned the gearing will advance the frames ( and may cock the shutter too.? 🙂 ) My Yashica D works with the "Start" mark and the first wind brings it to the first exposure. Thereafter it maintains the framing and likely counts the exposures too. After the 12th exposure it will wind the film endlessly ie the end of the film is rolled on the spool. I do have to manually cock the shutter. Hope that helps!!

Sometimes you have to accept these idiosyncrasies. I have two of these and they both work intermittently. When it works, it works great. Sometimes I pick it up and it works, other times I start with it not working, but later it will come on board. When I bought the second one... I thought; cool I got it! But now it acts much like the other one. It just makes me crazy... I also have the "Super" which I bought (stupidity) thinking it was the same ie not the "B" It has a non-coupled selenium meter that consistently works, but the values seem to be wrong . Off setting the meter can work on this.. but that wasn't the point!?!? I do really like the rendering of the Tessar on this. Very contrasty ..love the blue skies when using color film Where are you in the world? If you're in Europe, I will happily send the intermittent Super B.

@Gary.. Ohhh Nooo!! Been there .... Murphy and all... I hope the repair is successful...try a l shortened roll this time 😉

Ohh right ..you were my inspiration to get one of those.. clearly the Ektar is a Tessar type. I've recently acquired more Kodak "stuff" from this era. Were these also "Dia-postive ie B&W sldes?

Thanks all who replied. I realize now, that these coolers only have warm or hot and no "control".. Taking it a step further... other people also wanted to control temperature. I didn't find any that were were for photo chemicals per others were for incubators, fermenting home-brewing so "quite " exact was the goal. There were a lot of DIY You-Tube videos. This one was geared to my "cooler" concept While I'm not lazy nor is this beyond my skill level, .. I did want ro buy ( Prêt-à-Porter ) a solution with a cooler... I guess I'll have to think about this some more!!

Like Maris and others.. I generally work at room temp. Sorry to jump on an old thread here.. but I noted a few things and was hoping someone could add to this. Both my dilution water (tap or distilled) is at the same temp as my stock solutions. I saw some use the ilford guide lines while others have even written a program to calculate the difference. Meanwhile, the "Massive" Development chart has a Time/Temp converter tool. You put in the recommended time and then the current or actual temperature and you get the new recommended time for this temperature. But when the room temp is too high ..in the summer it might be 28-30c, or in winter in the 12-15 Celsius the times become exaggerated to the point that it is not recommended to use for various reasons. I noted my friend Bill uses a cooler and this seems to be a very logical answer to maintain temp. I thought in the modern world I frequently see coolers that (seem to me) to be adjustable and can keep things hot or cold based on DC power. I've seen where you plug-in to the cig lighter and use the cooler to maintain a constant temperature. This seems ideal ...or is this NOT how they work?!? I imagine a work flow where I place or keep the various liquids , stock solution, water for dilution, and fixer. Assuming this is possible; set the temp and wait about an hour to let it settle in. Ideally you have a thermometer showing the temp. Even if you can only use the cooler to "maintain" the temp, having the temp readout of the "internal temp" would make it worthwhile. In some examples above, you are creating a bath for chemicals to sit in (inside the cooler or otherwise. I think a temp controlled cooler would be a less fussy and maybe more reliable system. Interested in any feedback on this? I noted these DC coolers are not cheap!

Hi Tony Evans... looking good!

Greetings Silver Nitraters and Heavy Metal fans. I am moving into this past summer. As I explained, the aging process is taking its toll...not only do I not remember WHAT camera, it's also WHEN used, The file dates are helpful. Here,. I'm shooting the Yashica FXD a nice small (er) SLR and relatively light too. It can only be used with a battery, but it has a nice feature set. Often compared to the stablemate Contax 139, as it too has quartz regulated electronics. They do seem quite the same...although claimed to be different Here, I used both the kit 1.7 (Planar) and the 28mm ML wide angle on this roll. BTW this camera was a gift from a CMC user (quite) a few years back! Outside of my usual practices, I've developed this roll with Pyrocat HD. There is some perforated bromide drag...which generally means too little agitation... in my case I think it was a combination of too vigorous agitation. My HDHS sometimes has me smoking the agitation while daydreaming. Oh...and I managed to badly scratch the film too?!? Generous CMC user, noted the lack of the FXD on the top....must be very very rare ...perhaps this was serviced..he speculated... Somebody had a birthday Another barge on the Rhein Across the street from my apt... this is a traffic monitor for all the traffic lights etc. note the antenna array .. the graffiti was welcomed..ie it was sanctioned This was taken in Venlo in the Netherlands. A popular excursion for local Germans to Holland.. about an hour away...the following pics are also from Venlo a local watering hole...not Waterloo A prominent church dominating the skyline Another church ..from behind A Nymph in the lobby of a restaurant.. the light was just too low.. I see some shake...maybe F2.8 at 1/60th

Thanks for that.. both of you!

FWIW This looks like a very detailed way in...Well Done. Chris Sherlock has a series of videos , showing among other things.. the removal of the top for cleaning.. albeit for the similar Bessa I... which doesn't have the RF... just wanted to throw this out there...even if it is off topic ( I can't seem to paste in a simple text hyper-link without the full You Tube video link appearing Google Chris Sherlock Bess 1 strip down and service part 4 (begins at 18 minutes .. and Bessa 1 strip down and service part 5

as RickN said ... It has been raining for circa two months.. a few days ago was the first sunshine in a long time. One was only sunny for a few hours, and then the next day was good for the whole day... but again...here in Western Europe, rain and overcast skies again for the last two days. I have a "new to me" Kodak Tourist II I want to shoot. I re-rolled the the 120 - 620 and need a good day of sun.. not inspired by soft light, but generally like the results...if your lens is fast enough 😉 This exemplar has both good and bad points... the shutter seems to "too fast" ie a 10th is more like a 25th..is more like 50th etc ..at least to my eyes and ears. Also the spool side was missing.....well the spool axle and top knob access gone. I missed that in the photos 😞 The lenses look clean (4.5 Anaston Kodamatic 200) and the it snaps into place very firmly. more to follow.. as I probably won't be shooting this till ?? And as usual I am way behind posting any results as I still have circa 7-8 rolls/cameras waiting in the wings...

@RickN and all... It has been raining for circa two months.. a few days ago was the first sinshine in a long time. One was only sunny for a few hours, and then the next day was good for the whole day... but again...here in Western Europe, rain and overcast skies again for the last two days. I have a new to me Kodak Tourist II I want to shoot. I re-rolled the the 120 - 620 and need a good day of Sun.. not inspired by soft light, but generally like the results...if your lens is fast enough 😉

@'Jason Excellent results with the Signet. Can I assume this is the Tessar type lens? Were you using a yellow filter? I noted the very dark skies.

Happy New Year to my fellow CMC members.. keep on posting!! I am always on the catch-up list. I am up to about July this past year. The real problem now is ... (I'm so old) I can't rmember what cameras I used and /or already posted. Another real problem for me ....is that I don't own a car and my mobility is beginning to be an issue. The long and short of that is... I don't get a good choice of/or inspiration/inspiration for new photos, so I am constantly re-shooting the same subjects albeit with different hardware. Here I am usuing my Vito II (Compur). I recall seeing a site that referred to this model (among others) as an object d'art. Whjile searching for it I did fimd this site with many beautiful cameras featured..but no Vito II . Worthwhile nonethelss.. He has 3 galleries. https://www.stevenhyatt.com/2015/02/camera-design-tools-can-be-beautiful/ https://www.stevenhyatt.com/2020/04/vintage-camera-design-tools-can-be-beautiful-round-2/ https://www.stevenhyatt.com/2020/08/vintage-camera-design-tools-can-be-beautiful-round-3/ I digress... the Vito II struck me as a beautiful design ..so much so that I have three: The Vito(1) and two Vito IIs, one iwth a Prontor and the other with a Compur shutter. All have the 3.5 Skopar.. the Vito is uncoated. I do apologize if you'Ve seen these subject and views before from other cameras. This is the usual for me. APX100 souped in D76 1:1 Note they have slightly different bodies..(stripes on the right) This was built only two years ago.. and the vegetation growh practically obscures the new "Schwimmbad" Cityscape ..Quite a walk down stream probably a half hour's walk Along the way ....Not very sharp?!? Heerdt... the viewfinders on these ... are not very forgiving Rheinufer ...Another view ...along the way Posted other similar views ... I believe this is called "Abschied" the Departure

From the harware clips on the last photo and the side view mentioning Kodak film... I'd say for sure it is a Kodak ..likely from the 1920s... Pocket !a ? What's the inside show when you lift the clipped part out? Generally a bellows of sorts would be there??

Waiting to know 🙂

As ususal... I'm posting pics from the past year.. I'm up to this summer, and I've been less active so the nadir is close... Here I'm shooting my 2x3 Century Graphic with the 101mm Kodak Exktar 3.5 (Lumenized) . For those less familiar with Graflex... the "Century" models have an intgrated Graflokback. I bought this at a camera "Swap Meet" in the mid 1980s. This is an early 50s model. The shutter is from Kodak. IIRC I had a yellow filter on. Since one only has 8 exposures.. my usual prolific posts will be curtailed. This is Foma 100 done in D76 1:1 . This is a gray green color.. Meanwhile tthis ivy has been cut down and no longer entwines the stone wall in fornt of my house Commerzbank ..Too dark IMHO.. little shadow detail En de Canon They were in the midst of draining for cleaning, so the ship is normally masted and in the center Antonius Kirche I spent a while trying to frame this.. generally got what I wanted

I suspect this will work ok... but I'm most impresed with the immaculate condition of this camera. I have three Nagel Kodaks..while the build quality is unsurpassed... their overall condition.. is not very good. These are all post-war cameras too I believe mine are Retina I, Retina Ia and the IIa( RF) ..I'll have to look! Age and memory can no longer me trusted! Please do put it to use :)!!

This hasn't been discussed for a while.. .. Endless arguments what makes it Manual andsplitzting hairs on audo-excposure or auto advance..BTW I hadn't noticed the "Modern Film Camera" forum as being gone?!? However, I think others will post here regardless. So If we change the Forum name to "Film" cameras,,, That's fine with me too! Please don't use the "A" word (a-----g) !! 🙂

Thanks for that AJ! Happy time with new camera!!