JeffOwen

<p>I did read in a computer mag that Microsoft were stopping certain apps etc. including Adobe Creative Suite in one of their recent W10 updates. Apparently Microsoft puts the deleted programs in a file called Windows.old in your C: drive, so you should be able to recover it OK.<br> Another reason not to move to Windows 10. I'm staying with W7.</p>

<p>Can't do much for the photo you took, but by looking around for images of MAC lipstick I found this to be as good a match as possible.<br> Your photo is on top. </p><div></div>

<p>I know it is probably not useful to say at this stage but I would not go anywhere without my Canon 10-22. It has virtually no flare (I have frequently shot into the sun with hardly any ill effects). Also the extra mm at the wide end is so noticeable.<br /> I would go for the Tokina as being more useful. If you can afford it, the Canon 10-22 would be even better.<br> Even the Canon 10-18 would be worth consideration.</p>

<p>Third shot taken in Coolangatta.</p><div></div>

<p>Second shot.</p><div></div>

<p>A few shots taken in NSW this last week.</p><div></div>

<p>Quickly looking through the gallery very few have been taken with flash. However using flash with a heavy diffuser will certainly help to brighten up the foreground particularly if the background is a someway back from the subject. Unfortunately this will not give the best 'organic' natural look, so I guess some post photo work will be required.<br> I have done this sort of work in Photoshop but probably not the best person to give a tutorial.</p>

<p>If the thin (red) line is along the travel of the scanner lamp (as opposed to across in line with the lamp), then it could be lump of dirt covering the sensor, or more worryingly, sensor damage.<br> If it is across the scanned image then it could be a mechanical problem with the scanner mechanism.<br> I don't know anything about the Minolta Dimage scanner but have you tried scanning at different resolutions. This might give a clue if the line changes width or even disappears etc. If the line is there whatever you do in when scanning it could indicate a firmware issue in the scanner.</p>

<p>A quick look on e-bay in the UK comes up with a cost of £600 (approx US $900).</p>

<p>Did that and the problem was still there. Have now sent it Canon service (UK ), have agreed to a £182 inspection and repair and am awaiting final price and return.</p>

<p>I can't believe that Walmart does not give you your negs back. I certainly will not use them if that is their policy.</p>

<p>Thanks Jos for the link. I had a look through the details on the link to see if I might reset the camera and it refers to removing the back up battery for an hour.<br> I looked for this battery and could not find it. Googling the issue I discover that unlike my old 20D and 40D the 60D does NOT have a back up battery! It seems to rely on a high efficiency capacitor to keep the date,time and custom settings when the main battery is removed.<br> Looks as if my problem has just got worse.</p>

<p>My 60D has suddenly developed a fault that appears to flatten batteries. It is normally left on so that depressing the shutter will activate the LCD display, focus the lens and fire the shutter.<br> The other day I noticed that the low battery icon in the LCD was flashing and nothing would work. Putting in a fresh battery did not alter the low battery warning. Switching the camera on and off did not change the warning. It carried on even with the camera turned off. A third battery did the same.<br> I charged up the batteries to ensure all were ready, cleaned the battery contacts, moved all the switches, took the lens off and cleaned the contacts, basically moved everything that might have created the problem. I then put in a fresh battery in and all seemed OK! I took a few photos and thought that the problem had gone. The next day the low battery alarm was showing and now nothing seems to get it working again.<br> If the battery is left in the camera (camera turned off) the icon still flashes and eventually dies, I assume that at this stage the battery is totally exhausted.<br> Has anyone had a similar problem as this and what do you recommend I do about it? Is it terminal?</p>

<p>A 72ft image at 300dpi is 270,000 pixels wide. On a full frame dslr (ratio 3:2) the vertical pixel count would be 180,000.<br> This would need a sensor of 270k x 180k x 3 (approx) i.e. about 145800 Mb ! It hasn't been built yet.</p>

<p>I have every sympathy with you as I have had several transfer issues with my iPads.<br> On one occasion I tried to try to free up space by deleting some home videos, but was told by the Apple shop that it could not be done without the iTunes that loaded them. Unfortunately that PC that had that iTune is dead. Apple were unable to help me.<br> On updating my wife's iPad to IOS 8 several apps failed to work with no reason other than the updated IOS version.<br> On my iPad I have refused to update the IOS mainly due to these and issues like yours. I think you are right, these manufactures make these changes so that you have to update your equipment. My recommendation is not to do the updates.</p>

<p>John, I have just tried your technique and think that what you did was just great. Here is what I achieved.</p><div></div>

<p>Sounds very similar to my problem I had on my old Canon Scanner. I have a W7 64bit pro computer that suddenly stopped being able to find my scanner. It took me some time to find that the TWAIN path was missing. I don't know how it got lost (I blame the frequent Windows updates) but all was restored once I had put the missing path back. <br> The problem may be different on your PC with a Nikon scanner but this link might help. http://aaron-kelley.net/blog/2010/10/canon-scanner-error-cant-find-rmslantc-dll/</p>

<p>Was that a new price? The cheapest price new that I can see it for is £240.</p>

<p>My Canon 20D (12Mb if I remember right) saved high quality JPEGs at between 2 and 8 MB. Say 8 MB then for JPEG shots only you should get over 1000 shots from an 8GB memory card.</p>

<p>On a lens with such a wide angle I don't think that IS is worth a lot. I too have had the 10-22mm for many years and consider it one of my best and most used lenses. I certainly would not change it for a slower version just for the IS even though it is cheaper.</p>

<p>The most highly rated freebie at the moment is Avast.</p>

<p>The power drainage on most Canon DSLRs when not in use is pretty negligible. I leave my camera on virtually all the time and see no problem with that. </p>

<p>I have been running CS2 on Windows 7 64bit for several years now without a problem. The only issues are trying to run my old (XP installed) Canon i9950 printer from it. Just occasionally it locks up and I have to wait a couple of minutes for it to sort itself out. Same issue with my Canon scanner.<br> Mac, re the register pop up; I have just tried it and it works a treat! Thanks for that fix. </p>

<p>My Canon 10-22 mm lens is, in my view, is one of the best super wide lenses that do not not show flare.<br> However I have used it with the sun in the shot and seen similar of spot type flare that you have seen.</p><div></div>

<p>As you probably realised there are only coloured sensors in (most) digital cameras. Basically full spectrum light sensors with three types of coloured filters in front.</p>