JeffOwen

I have been using this Canon 430EX II with no problems recently and went to use it today and saw the pilot light was ON even though the ON/OFF switch was off. I changed the batteries, but the problem persisted. The flash seems to work OK except that the pilot light stays on even when the timed auto switch off operates. I am not sure how much this drains the batteries when the flash is not in use, but the only way to make sure is to remove the batteries when not in use! Any ideas anybody?

Just bought a Canon Speedlite flash and if I put it into Manual it does not send out the pre flash and my slave flash now fires in sync. Happy days! Jeff

Wow, thanks for that answer, it has really put my mind at rest. I will now go and try a workaround to see if I can sort out my idea of using two flash guns for a certain set up. Jeff

I have started to use a slave flash with my Canon 80D and can't understand why the 'with slave' exposure is so poor. The top photo shows the camera set to Manual 1/100th, f8, ISO400 and using the camera built in flash. The histogram is not perfect but acceptable. The bottom photo uses a slave flash (this is an old Olympus with a photo cell trigger, see photo) placed about the same distance from the subject but at 45 deg. The camera settings are identical, but the resulting photo is well under exposed (see hystogram). How can that be? I have taken several photos and all result in the same effect.

At 76 years of age I do all my own scanning using my SLR (Canon) with a close up lens (in my case extension tubes) and a home made light box. The light box uses a LED lamp and diffusers from a dismantled laptop screen. I have done hundreds of old negatives and slides and use Photoshop to crop and sort out any corrections including negatives.

I use Gadwin PrintScreen. It is free and easy to set up. You can select any full screen or just a selected part. I use it all the time.

That is exactly how I copy all my negs and slides. I use a Canon 50mm f1.8 with a 21mm extension tube. I fix the f number at f8 to give a reasonable depth of field (card mounted slides tend to have a bow). I use auto focus and shutter speed.

When you say you can't update images from your camera are you trying to connect the camera direct (via USB cable) or are you using a card reader? If you are using a USB cable then there might be an issue with W10 not having the up to date transfer program. W10 PCs should have not problem with handling any images you upload. I guess the main issue you might have is a suitable card reader.

As Rodeo_joe said: Magic wand the sky area (50), Fill 100%, Add noise 22%. I have reduced the image size to 1000 pixels.

Taken with a Canon 80D

Thanks for that info. I had done pretty much as you said and even uploaded my photo. The problem came when I tried to get it to stay as a posted image. I tried 'More Options' but all that did was to get me into deeper trouble because there was no way I could see to cancel or delete the attatment. I will have one more go and see if I can get it to work.

How can I upload my photo and delete these errors that keep appearing?

[ATTACH=full]1316497[/ATTACH]

The only blue church in Europe. Trim, straighten, enhance using PS vibrance, select church and enhance more.

For some years now I have been using a Tamron 18-270mm f3.5-f6.3 with VC (vibration control) as my walk about lens on my 80D. I has it's failings but as a 'lazy' lens it suits me just fine. I do have higher quality lenes in that range but find that changing lenes in the field is becoming more and more of a hassle. The only other lens that I carry about is my Canon 10-22mm. If I had to give up all my lenses this is the one I would keep.

It depends whether the original photo had it's EXIF data removed before uploading to PN. Most people do not remove the data so that others can examine the exposure details etc. To view the EXIF data there are a number of viewing programs that can easily display this information. I use the excelent free program called FASTSTONE. Once set up this program displays the data when the curser is moved over to the far right of the screen when viewing the image.

All my photos, whether they are copies of slides/photos or original images, I rename using the date (YYYY-MM-DD) followed by a simple label such as a name or location with an index number if there are more than a few of the same name. This format helps (me) to view the final results in the right cronological order. A lot of viewing programs only seem to be able to view images in alphabetical/numerical order so this system helps sort that out. Slides can be difficult to get right if the date is unknown and the only date to go by is the processing date on the slide itself.

Not quite sure what happened to my last posting of this challenge, maybe it was too big, I did after all add a few more floors and made it appear taller by distorting it.

Very similar problems, so fustrating that in the end I would enlarge my image canvas size to the paper size putting my image exactly where I wanted it. Then print it full frame to fit on the paper (scale to fit media).

Unless you are a pro then older versions of Photoshop should surfice. I had been using CS2 from a CD when Photoshop sent out a copy for all existing customers to use. I guess it depends on how many features you use that the earlier versions don't have. I believe that CS4 is now freely available.

I moved from the 20D to the 40D and then to the 60D. And now I have just started using an 80D! I was disappointed in the move away from the 40D thinking that even though I have kept most of the same lenses throughout the camera changes, I thought that the 60D was softer and grainier. However with the 80D I feel happier. It's not just a resolution thing it is just that it seems to cope better with challenging scenes better. My favorite lens that I have used throughout is the Canon 10-22mm.

I had a 70-300 DO lens soon after it was first produced and liked for it's compactness and it's light weight. I never found any issues as far as contrast etc. but I did notice a strange bokeh in those out of focus areas. Most of the time it was hardly noticeable.