JeffOwen

<p>I use Word (my version is from Office 2003) to set the type and import photos to make a book. Once imported you can change the size of the image and move it around the text etc.<br> It is not the easiest of programs to use but works for me. There may be free programs like Libra Office that can do a similar task.</p>

<p>A simple Google check for 'error 05' on a Canon camera shows there is a problem with the pop up flash. As you say the flash does actually pop up so my interpretation is that the camera does not sense the flash is up. This could be dirt on the flash mechanism switch or a failed component.<br> I would suggest popping the flash up manually a few times (set the dial to P, lightly touch the shutter button and then operate the flash pop up button) with the flash popped up, push it down and pop it up a few times to see if that helps clean the contacts. With the flash up operate the shutter to see if it now works.<br> If the flash still does not work try blowing air into the crevasses around the flash hinge from a cleaning can of compressed air. This is a bit of a long shot to try to dislodge any dust that might have built up in the flash housing.<br> If this does not work then a trip to a camera repair shop might be needed.</p>

<p>Both FastStone and IrfanView display the time to the nearest second when I look at my images from my Canon cameras.</p>

<p>I regularly work with large psd & tiff files. As far as I know the largest file size in psd is 30,000 X 30,000 pixels. After that you have to use the psb format in Photoshop.<br> I have converted a large psb (51,000 X 8000 pixel) into tiff format without a problem. I cannot get any images larger than 30,000 pixels into jpg format. </p>

<p>Is it me (have I been hacked) or has the forum been taken over by what looks like Chinese writing? All my other forum sites are OK so I guess it is a temporary problem at Photo Net and all will be restored soon to one of my favorite and most looked at sites.</p>

<p>Thanks Mendel, I did download a copy of Vuescan onto my W7 pro PC but did not try it out when I realised that I needed to pay for a key. Call me mean but I really get cross when companies like Microsoft force me to pay to keep my old workable equipment going. I agree that if my equipment had truly failed or there was a security risk involved then I would do the right thing and pay to get it sorted.<br> I have heard good things about Vuescan so may well give it a go if my restored system (XP PC) eventually fails.</p>

<p>I have now spent the last 12 hours trying my best to photograph (Canon 60D with 50mm f1.8 lens and 31mm extension tube) and post process my old Kodacolor negs using some of your posted suggestions.<br> The results were unacceptable to me so I resorted to a tried and trusted method! I recovered my old XP computer from the junk room and plugged in my old Canon 4200F scanner. The old programs were still there and still worked. The scanning process is quite slow (about 10 mins per four negs at 2400) but the results were instantly better. <br> Looks like a victory for the old(er) technology as far as I'm concerned.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone for your comprehensive replies. It is going to take me a while to go through all the possibilities. I will let you know which route sorts me out. </p>

<p>My scanner stopped working when I upgraded my PC so I thought I would take photos of my old negs and use Photoshop to correct and invert them, but I am struggling.<br /> I am using CS2 and am fairly familiar with most aspects in Photoshop but there does not seem an obvious way to do it. Currently I am using 'Auto Levels', 'Invert' and 'Color balance' a couple of times. A long way round and still not a great result.<br /> Is there a plug in that would do the work for me or do I have to spend many minutes on on each neg I photograph.</p><div></div>

<p>I don't know Epson printers, but those streaks look like spilled ink around the ink carriage. You said you had difficulty with the previous ink cartridge and I suspect that some ink leaked out then. You may have to take out the current cartridge and thoroughly clean/dry the ink cartridge area, guide rods and rollers.</p>

<p>I use Photoshop, but I am sure there are many others that can do similar work as others have mentioned.</p>

<p>Try to adjust (increase) the canvas size to meet the aspect ratio required. You may have to give the border a neutral colour so that the border appears as part of the image. I do this all the time when I send off my photos to be printed by a shop.<br> One easy way is to increase the canvas significantly and then crop back to the ratio you want.</p>

<p>Have you tried setting your printer to print 'grey scale' only? This should ensure that you do not use any of the coloured printer inks.</p>

<p>The only way I can think of making an ink jet print waterproof is to laminate it. Make sure the laminate overlaps the edge of the print to ensure a good seal, i.e. do not trim the print after the laminate process.</p>

<p>I have used a Tamron with VC for several years and found it extremely effective. I now use it as my main travel lens because of it's wide focal range and I find carrying and changing lenses somewhat a pain. This lens (18-270mm) does not have such a high IQ as my other Canon lenses do but but for shear convenience it sure takes some beating.<br> I do take one other lens on my travels and that's the 10-22mm, a really great lens.</p>

<p>I am now a bit confused, particularly when you mention a different camera (Sony DV). As mentioned before the Canon 70D is not designed primarily as a video camera, it is a still camera with video capabilities. Indeed it takes excellent videos using Canon high quality lenses and an excellent sensor, but it will only take short bursts of videos shots (up to 30 mins). It is up to you to join all the clips together in your video editor back on your computer at home.<br> If you play back the videos in the camera it will only play one shot (scene) at a time. To get to 3hrs of viewing you will have to join all your video clips together (6 X 30mins, if you have taken the full 30 mins of capture time available for each shot) on a video editor and then output it to a device that your clients can use e.g. a DVD or a USB memory. <br> If you have not done any video editing before then you have a lot of learning to do. Also you need a good video editor. It is a long time since I have done video editing and am not in a position to recommend and suitable program nor how best to do the editing.</p>

<p>There used to be a limit on how long any one scene could be recorded for else the recording device could be deemed a video recorder and be subject to a different tax. The limit in your camera, as Leszek says, is just under 30 minutes. So long as your memory card has enough space you can record as many 30 minute scenes as you want.<br> In some still cameras that can record videos you can pause the the recording and when you continue recording it it will play back as one continuous scene. I am not sure the 70D can do this. If you want to edit and join several scenes together you will have to use a video editing program.</p>

<p>This is my quick attempt at Photoshop retouching. Most is salvageable as Glenn said.</p><div></div>

<p>The marks that I can see are not like the normal dust/dirt spots and are more like fungal marks emanating from the top left and bottom right of the image. I don't think that normal auto or manual cleaning will clear these lines.<br> I am not sure exactly where they are, but my guess is that they are within the sensor construction and may be very difficult to remove. <br> I think you are right to consider a trip to Canon to check it out.</p>

<p>New moon in the sunset.</p><div></div>

<p>Taking your left image, this is approximately what you should be getting. Take a good look at your scanner settings.</p><div></div>

<p>Teguise market, Lanzarote</p><div></div>

<p>I don't have Gimp but I do have Photoshop and to me this image looks very similar to image helped by using 'Shadows & Highlights' in Photoshop.<br> I use 'Shadows & Highlights' a lot in my high contrast shots , but not to the extent that your example shows.</p>

<p>I have the Canon 60D and several lenses, the one I would always take is the 10-22.<br> On our Alaska trip I too wanted to travel light but needed a long lens for distant close ups and choose a Tamron super zoom. Although it has limited aperture the 18-270mm does have image stabilization and I am quite satisfied with the quality. These two lenses now seem to be my main ones when I am traveling abroad.<br> I think your needs seem similar to mine so the other lens I suggest is the 55-250. This does however leave a gap in your range so maybe the 17-55 may have to be included.</p>

<p>On my Canon DSLRs I could only change the name etc. using the PC software that came with the camera. The date and time should be changeable from the menu on the back of the camera.</p>