JeffOwen

<p>Very unlikely you will get a seamless result. Most printers go through a cleaning process after a cartridge change. If you actually ran out of ink i.e. no ink, rather than printer thought you had no ink, then the likelihood is that at least one of the nozzles will not work the next time you use it.</p>

<p>It sounds as if you are using too large a brush size in your cloning tool.</p>

<p>While shooting RAW will get the best from your camera it does not guarantee a good photo. You don't say what camera or lenses you are going to use so this will limit who will be able to help as not all photo editing programs have RAW convertors for all cameras.<br> I am an enthusiastic amature and have shot at many weddings alongside the official photographer. I always shoot with the highest quality jpg and have found that many prefere my photos over the official ones , not because of the quality but because of the angle or framing of the shot.<br> If you have become the official and only photographer you have a very ownerous task and I do not envy you one little bit. Please do not take this personally but in your shoes I would shoot in jpg, take a great number of shots and do not rely on editing to improve the results.<br> My addage has always been to 'Shoot lavishly and edit ruthlessly'.</p>

<p>From the image I saw in your link I would think that it could very easily be achieved in Photoshop.<br> BTW it would be easier to post a jpg picture rather than a link.</p>

<p>I have stuck with Windows and decided that Windows 7 pro 64bit was the best option. I do a lot of traveling and needed my laptop to be lightweight. I have chosen the Toshiba Portege Z930-151. It weighs in at 2lb 6oz and has a 13" screen. It's not perfect for accurate colour work but fine for first fix. I use Photoshop using a mouse no problems. It is fast and capable of handling large files with ease.<br> It's my recommendation.</p>

<p>Best way is to shoot two shots with and without the object. Make sure the lighting is from the same direction to ensure shadows etc are correct in both shots.<br> Probably better to support the object from below if it is large. Keep the camera in the same position for the two shots i.e. use a tripod.<br> In Photoshop or an editing program that uses layers open both shots and using the move tool drag the 'object' image over the 'background' image. This will produce a new layer. Reduce the new layer opacity to about 80%. This will help to align the two layers so that the background is fully aligned.<br> There are now several ways to proceed, I would use the erase tool to delete the object support and shadow from the new layer (usually layer 1). This is best done with the layer 1 at 100% opacity, taking care at the object edges using a small erase brush to ensure a 'soft' edge. Once all evidence of the support has been removed the layer 1 opacity can be set to whatever value to achieve a ghostly (transparent) effect. Once satisfied with the result you can flatten the layers and save the image.</p> <p> </p>

<p>I would go for Windows 7 64bit pro. This gives you the greatest flexibility for Photoshop etc.</p>

<p>It has the classic display of a failing shutter. My first SLR had had two shutter blinds (in my case going across in landscape mode) and if the speed of the two were not the same then the result was exactly as you describe. In my case I could adjust the tension of each shutter independently. Once altered I could never get the perfect result!<br> Might just need cleaning but probably best to get replaced.</p>

<p>I have been working on a large image (29950 x 10394 pixels) in CS2 for a long time now and have always been able to save it as a jpeg. However as soon as I went over 300000 pixels not only could I not save it as a jpeg I could not save the master as a PSD. I had to save the image (a large family tree) as a TIFF file and save the latest master as a PSB file.</p>

<p>I don't know what printer you are using but my old printer Canon i9950 never has the right colour for the black if it has not been used for a while. it is almost as if when the nozzle head is parked up (on the foam end stop) for a while, it soaks up ink though the foam from cleaning sump! I usually have to print in grey print mode a few sheets of just black before it comes good.<br> Try printing in black & white (usually called grey ink print mode) to see if the black ink is contaminated in some way.</p>

<p>How do I delete some of my synced photos and videos? <br /> <br /> When I first set up my iPad I put some photos in a specific folder on my PC and used iTunes to synchronize them to my iPad. Since then I have changed my PC (to Windows 7) and I have stopped using iTunes.<br /> <br /> I have many photos on my iPad loaded from SD cards etc that I don't want to delete but it seems that the only way is to use iTunes to resync, but the original PC & folder do not exist. How can I get the synced photos off my iPad?<br> <br /> It seems that only the photos and videos that I originally synced are the the ones I cannot edit, transfer or delete in my iPad.<br /> I have loaded up iTunes on my new PC but it is extremely unclear how to only do it, and the help file does not help.<br> I have asked this question in other forums but did not even get a response. Perhaps they were the wrong forum, perhaps this too is the wrong forum. Perhaps no one has figured it out yet.</p>

<p>I have been using my 4200f to scan negs on my Windows XP with no problems but having to moved to Windows 7 pro I can't get it to operate.<br> In Windows 7 I had to download a new driver to scan from the platen, this was OK but does not operate as it used to : in XP I could open Photoshop and import the scanner to acquire both the platen and the neg holder. Now I first have to use the Canoscan toolbox to first scan an image and this opens Photoshop with the scanned image. After this initial scan I can import the scanner and it works OK, but not the neg or transparency holder.<br> I have tried running a virtual copy of XP and loading the scanner driver from the original disc, it gets loaded OK but still does not work.<br> Does anyone know how I can get my scanner to work with negs in Windows 7? I don't think I should pay a driver company to get my scanner to work fully.</p>