JeffOwen

I have just discovered that IrfanView 64 not only can resizes images it can also put the labels (in my case the file name) in whatever font size/colour and where ever I want. What a powerful and time saving this free program is.

Thanks for the info. It seems that I will have to change the image dimensions and resolution of all my images first to enable me to use the same font size for every photo. Does anyone know how this can be done in bulk? I have over 700 photos I want to label up.

I have hundreds of my favourite photos that I have collected over the years and use as a desktop background in Windows 10. I now want to add an on screen title to each one using Photoshop. To save time (I thought) I resized every photo (using IrfanView 64) so that they each had the same pixel dimension (I chose 2400 X 3500). In Photoshop I choose the font size I wanted for the first one but found that each one needed a different font size. Why is this? Surely the font size is proportional to the pixel number and not the dimension and resolution? If the font size needed is proportional the dimension and resolution, then how can I include this in a batch size change?

<p>When you open an image in Photoshop it opens with a box surround. If you zoom bigger the box will stay the same size and the image will enlarge within the box. If you zoom smaller then again the box will remain the same size but the image will show smaller within it. In both cases the actual pixel count will remain the same.<br /> If you open an image and without zooming, crop the image, the box will reduce to the size of the cropped image. If you open an image and zoom then crop the box will stay the same size.<br /> If you open an image and without zooming, change the pixel count down, then the box will reduce accordingly. If you open an image and zoom in or out, and then change the pixel count, the box will remain the same size.<br /> If you open an image and grab a side or corner to change the size of the box then whatever you do to the image the box sixe will remain the same.<br /> It all seems a bit confusing but after many years of Photoshop use I have got used to it. I am use CS2 so other versions may well have other quirks.</p>

<p>Most directories have the means to sort by 'date taken'. I would get all photos put into new folders labeled year/month taken. It is unlikely that two different photos would have the same name and be taken in the same month. A quick visual check would sort any issues.</p>

<p>I am not sure about the DR qualities of the two cameras you mention, but the best way to help reduce the high contrast of the miday sun is to use a fill in flash.</p>

<p>You are not too clear on where these spots are. Are they on the lens, in the viewfinder, on the mirror, on the sensor or on the image? Where ever they are you do not need any leads.<br> If you have seen them on the image and they are always in the same area then there may be dirt on the sensor which can be cleaned following the instructions in the manual. It is not a difficult task but it has to be done carefully so as not to add more dirt.<br> If the spots are anywhere else they probably will not affect the image quality at all unless they are gross. A dry and clean soft brush can be used to clear large lumps off the lenses and mirrors etc. but use only if they are of significant size.</p>

<p>As Edward suggests, sort by date first. I use Windows Explorer and keep all my photos in 'date taken' order.<br> First make a back up of all your photos on a separate hard drive.<br> Then in Explorer generate new folders and name them simply by the year. If you have too many in the any given year generate more folders by year-month.<br> Assuming that your existing collection is on your pc and available to view in Explorer ( probably in random folders) start on the first folder and change the 'view' to 'date taken'.<br> Now select photos with the same year date and drag them to the new folder with the appropiate date. if they are already in the same drive as the new folders then do not copy and paste as this will make your task more difficult. If you are moving them from a different drive then they will automatically be copied.<br> Keep moving photos from your old location to the new folders.<br> Duplicated photos will be highlighted during this process. It will be highly unlikey that in any given year-month that these duplicated files have been generated with the same name, so I would simply delete the duplicates. If you are concerned about the duplicates examine each one to check for file size (very unlikely that they will have same size if they are different photos). <br> If you are using a Mac then the process will be different.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Not sure about the IR effect but probably the best and easiest way to create the effect you describe is by the use of a polarising filter.</p>

<p>My version of CS2 on Windows 7 started playing up after a Microsoft update last month. ( see http://www.photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/00du4Z) I tried all sorts of remedies but none worked.<br /> I have since moved Windows 10 (very reluctantly) and have been pleasantly surprised that Photoshop CS2 transferred seamlessly including all my preferences and presets, and now works as well as it did before.<br /> As Geoff says, Adobe made CS2 available (including the key), to all those with valid previous versions of Photoshop. It's worth a try.</p>

<p>I have been using a Tamron 18-270mm VC for several years as my traveling lens with my 60D and have been very pleased with it. It has it's failings but as cheap (£250) all rounder with image stabilisation (VC) I think it is worthwhile having.<br /> Tamron have also recently brought out a 16-300mm VC at a slightly higher price (£322) which gives a slightly wider range.</p>

<p>Your third image has far too low a resolution to do justice to any cloning. I increased the resolution by about 7x, did some cloning then reduced the image back to your original posting size. Not a very good example I'm afraid but the best that I could do. I did some cropping and small size adjustment to the image to show my work.</p><div></div>

<p>Sally, I went to the PS compatibility mode and changed the settings to XP (service pack 3). I hadn't use PS for a few days so chose a couple of images to work on that were OK to mess up.<br> On the first image I made a 'level' change and then did some sharpening. I was not happy with the result and selected 'open' in the history palette and exited the image. All was OK. The second image I just changed the levels a bit and then used the image 'exit' in my usual way, but this time the 'do you want to save this image' sub window appeared behind the image. It was hidden so all I could do was hit the 'enter' key and the image was saved as this was the default option in the sub window. Not a big concern but I will continue further checks soon.<br> It appears that with this simple test that there are still issues on my PC. Thanks for keeping me in touch with your solutions, I hope that your PC continues to work OK for you. Let me know if come across any other fixes. Looking around it does seem that MS updates have created a lot of other adverse issues with W7 users, unfortunately none specifically relate to the problems we have seen. </p>

<p>Thanks for the update.<br> I too thought the problem had gone, but like you found, it gradually (after about 20 actions) came back. I haven't yet tried to uninstall any MS updates but definitely believe there is a connection.<br> I have tried other forums but to no avail. I am surprised so few have reported the problem. I might try reinstalling CS2 from my original disc, currently I am using the Adobe free (to existing users) download. </p>

<p>Thanks again for the detailed info re MS updates.<br> I have found a couple of MS updates around time my PC started playing up. They both have the same KB number (KB915597) but different version numbers. I don't seem to be able to remove them from the 'Update History' page and when I go to the 'Uninstall an Update' page they don't appear. The latest one that is available to uninstall is about 10 days earlier.<br> A few months back I removed a very large MS update relating to W10 and subsequently hid further W10 messages, but this action did not affect Photoshop at the time. Having said that I see there are 3 updates hidden and about 22 updates not yet installed. I am not sure if all of these relate to W10, it looks as if I am going to have to go through all these pending updates to see what they relate to and possibly install them to see if that helps my problem. </p> <p>By the way, the Tab/Tab action seems to recover the palette display in most cases, but not always. Usually I have to resort to minimising and then maximising the Photoshop window. I don't have many other windows running perhaps Firefox, Live Mail, Skype and Windows Explorer.</p>

<p>Sally, thanks again for your information. I tried the 're-save Palette Options' and also the action of deleting the 'Preference settings' as suggested in Paint the Moon.</p> <p> At first in each case it seemed to have worked with Photoshop appearing to work normally, but as I worked on more images in any one Photoshop session the issue of sub windows disappearing beneath the image (e.g. the save window and the print window) and or some or all the palettes disappearing altogether returned with a vengeance. It is really getting very annoying.</p> <p>I have tried to see what MS update could have caused the problem but am not absolutely sure where to look and what possible cause of the problem might look like, let alone how to undo or change it. I am pretty sure this is where the answer lies.</p>

<p>Sally, thanks for note, you have described exactly what I am seeing. I too have been using a work around and will try the 'tab/tab' option next time. The only way I have found to reduce the problem on my W7 PC is to minimise and then maximise the working window. <br> Please let me know if you find the culprit in the MS update. </p>

<p>Thanks Willemse for the for the reminder on how to stop the registration from appearing at each Photoshop start up.<br> Thanks Richard, I already had Win Virtual PC running when I uninstalled and reinstalled CS2. Are you saying that I have to uninstall & reinstall CS2 from within the virtual PC as well as from W7?<br> I have not yet done any driver updates, I will look at those options soon. </p>

<p>I have tried a number of options including using virtual XP( I use this option to successfully run programs that don't work in W7), but it seems incredibly slow and when I open CS2 it says it is not registered. It looks I might have to reinstall CS2 in virtual XP to get it going. I have decided that there are too many limitations for this option to work. Thanks for the suggestion.<br> What seems to be the main issue with CS2 in W7 is that the sub window order levels have changed their priority. e.g. when trying to save an image the save window appears behind the image and not on top, making it impossible to work.<br> Another example (see below) occurs when I open Windows Explorer the palettes from Photoshop remain on the screen. I have to minimise Photoshop before opening Windows Explorer to ensure they are not visible.<br> Are there some resets within Windows or more particularly Photoshop that can sort out these sub window orders?</p> <div></div>

<p>Thanks for the W10 answer to my using of CS2, that answer may well make up my mind to making the change.<br> I am in my 70s and have been very reluctant to change from W7 just because MS wants me to. My adage is that 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'. It seems that the MS approach is to brake the old (but working) system forcing me to use a system that has few advantages to me.</p>

<p>Thanks for the tip. I went through the compatibility check and it did not make any difference. I could well be a Microsoft issue as I noticed there was an automated update last week and that is when I noted the Photoshop problem. The annoying thing is that I have been using CS2 for many years both on my XP PC and now on my W7 PC with absolutely no problem until now.<br> I cannot afford nor do I need to change from CS2 as it does all I need.<br> Does anyone know if I 'upgraded' to W10 could I still use my CS2 software?</p>

<p>I have been using Photoshop (CS2 on a PC W7 64bit pro) successfully now for several years with no problems until last week (MS update?), since then I have incurred a very annoying problem.<br> Basically whenever I carry out an action like changing levels or copying one image onto another to create a new layer the images on the display together with some of the palettes just disappear. One most annoying thing that happens is when I close an image it asks me whether I want to save it, but this window is behind the image so I can't see it. It is as if the background moves to the foreground. I can recover my work images by minimizing (restore down) and then maximizing Photoshop, even then not all the palettes etc. come back. Everything in Photoshop is workable but now I have to carry out this strange procedure at nearly every action.<br> So far I have completely uninstalled and reinstalled Photoshop with no improvement.</p> <p>Any ideas?</p>

<p>I am running the 64bit pro version of Windows 7. I am seriously deciding NOT to change to Windows 10 purely because of the aggressive way Microsoft is trying to force it's way on to PC users.</p>

<p>Following all the concerns re Quick Time I have uninstalled the program (from my W7 64bit PCs) and installed VLC video player. I am glad to report it works better than QT on my PCs and is now my default player.<br> The main issue that I had when playing was that videos shot on an iPhone in portrait mode did not always view correctly when I used alternative players. VLC seems to have this sorted just fine.</p>

<p>If you are just considering post image processing and not a lot of video editing or gaming etc. then you don't need a top of the range specification.<br> The lower (cheapest) hard drive and graphics are just fine, although having a SSD hard drive can be great for start up speed as well as some program needs.<br> You can't go wrong having plenty of RAM, so I would recommend 16Mb for handling large image files with a number of layers and to help with video editing.</p>